Copper pipe to Clippard Push Quicks

Discussion in 'General' started by wdodge0912, Mar 23, 2020.

  1. wdodge0912

    wdodge0912 Well-Known Member

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    So what's the easiest way to get from copper pipe to the Clippard push quick connectors? Not so much the cheapest, but the easiest way of doing it?

    Got this all for free, still need to solder it together, but I was hoping to use it for my air distribution. Need some way to be able to hook it all up to the solenoids and into the regulator. I'm using the push quicks, so I figured maybe there is some pipe to thread adapter I could get to sweat onto the stubs that would let me thread them in? Figured doing this and buying just some of the connectors would be a lot cheaper than buying Ts, and would give me a solid air distribution system instead of using a bunch of hose up.

    The 3 together are the aft gun solenoids, the one in the middle is the hookup to the regulator, and the front one would be the bow gun and a poppet for pressure testing.

    I'm not sure what pipe size that is, but I was able to find a 1/2" to 1/4" thread adapter. Maybe there is something like this for whatever size I have? I'm also not sure what threads that adapter would be, so Idk what push quicks I would need
     

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    Last edited: Mar 23, 2020
  2. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    I think getting a handful of wye or tee 1/4” push to connect fittings on amazon would be cheaper and much less of a PITA to assemble. You might need to look around to find the right product posting, but you can get 1/4” push to connects for around $0.40 per fitting. if you have the BC regulator with 3 ports, you’ll just need two wye connectors to split two of the outputs (giving you 5x hoses total), which allows 1 per gun and 1 for a pressure relieving poppet. If you have a single output regulator you would need 4x wye connectors, which will probably by less than $10 for a package with plenty of extras for future builds. The fittings you would need to get the copper pipe useful would probably be more expensive
     
  3. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    To make the copper pipe work, pick the largest piece, buy two end caps for that pipe size, use 10-32x 1/8” ID Clippard hose barbs, drill and tap locations along the pipe for the 1/8” barbs, solder the whole thing together, similar to this:
    47B96691-6B0D-45C2-BAE6-C0C3640187E0.jpeg
    2EEEFE84-77DF-408D-91ED-4627E80B0FB8.jpeg
    you can have the barbs come out of the side of the pipe as well, this one I used the end caps
     
  4. kgaigalas

    kgaigalas Well-Known Member

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    I also like copper and solder.
    Build anything you need in pneumatics.
    IMG_0035.JPG
     
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  5. Iunnrais

    Iunnrais Active Member

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    You can also solder in npt fittings into the copper pipe or end cap as well if you prefer.
    Lutzow Triple Tanks.jpg
     
  6. wdodge0912

    wdodge0912 Well-Known Member

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    So if I cap the pipes I can just drill a hole and thread it for my push quicks? I would assume I'd also want to solder them in, and could do that on the inside before soldering the caps on. That big thing I have now I have absolutley nothing into.

    Probably would be better to get some kind of thread adapter so I am not applying heat to something that has plastic on it (the release part of the push quick)
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2020
  7. Iunnrais

    Iunnrais Active Member

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    The copper pipe isn't quite thick enough to thread. That's why I went with soldering in a female npt fitting. I've soldered on 10/32 fittings in the past. I don't recommend soldering a male/male 10/32 to the copper end caps as the heat can make them brittle (broken too many pond side in later seasons). That's one of the reasons that most of my connections are now 1/8" npt.
     
  8. Panzer

    Panzer Iron Dog Shipwerks and CiderHaus

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    yes
     
  9. kgaigalas

    kgaigalas Well-Known Member

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    You thread the copper tubing just to HOLD the fitting in place while you solder.
    I could add a quick-disconnect to the NUT I soldered next to the RED hose.
     
  10. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Quick ruler check to the pipe would determine pipe size.
    But seriously, the money you'll dump into the fittings to adapt from copper to PTC will cost more than all the fittings you'd need for a straight PTC setup. Copper and brass are expensive, plastic not so much.
    Also, that pipe running through the hull will be bulky and in the way, imo.
     
  11. kgaigalas

    kgaigalas Well-Known Member

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    Expansion tank?
     
  12. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    ??
    Didn't know we were talking about expansion tanks?
    Wdodge said he wanted to use that copper length as his co2 distribution line. In my opinion, coming from my own experience, there are better options. But to each his own.
     
  13. kgaigalas

    kgaigalas Well-Known Member

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    You are right, we all have ideas when building.:):)
    I got a handful of fittings and 4' of copper tubing for free.:woot::woot:
    In my picture I use copper for CO2 distribution/expansion. The hoses are used for CO2 at different locations.
    The red hose is 1/4 inch to supply gas to the aft of my Washington where I have a LARGE expansion tank for my triples.
    As a one man observation, I have had PTC fittings leak,:oops: never had a leak with copper.:)
     
  14. wdodge0912

    wdodge0912 Well-Known Member

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    I was hoping to use it as both distribution and expansion/accumulation. Having something solid I could have held down in the boat would be nice too, instead of having to deal with hoses that want to curl.

    And all the pipe and T fittings I have there, I have absolutley no money into. Was all "salvaged"

    Also was thinking that if I'm drilling into the pipe itself, that would let me narrow the area where the solenoids hook into.

    Quick measure was 1/2" pipe. What I could do is cap the ends instead of the extra Ts, and drill, tap, and solder in some threads for the quick connects, 3 on 1 side and 1 on the other, with the forward cap also being drilled, threade . And soldered for the poppet.

    I'd leave the middle T to connect the halves, as well as drill, thread, and solder a hookup for the supply from the bottle.

    I have to buy the male ends for a solenoid anyways, so if I buy a pack of them (sold in 10s) I'd have 3 left after the solenoid and putting enough to use it for a supply.

    I could keep the whole thing as is though, and get those 1/2" to 1/4 threaded adapters I linked to earlier. At 2.58 a peice, I'd need 6 total, and then shipping. That plus the 10 pack of male push quicks, that's all I'd have to get to hook it all up with that pipe.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2020