I'm looking for different ideas for deck hold downs to find the best suited for my ship so leter rip guys lets see what is out there Thanks
I have used rare earth magnets, screws, latches, etc. I keep coming back to a pair of rare earth magnets. As a bonus, if you set it up right, your superstructure can act as a float and just be held on by the magnets until the unfortunate sink.
How much weight do they add? Aren't they fairly dense? Though I must admit that is the neatest solution I have heard.
When i used rare earth magnets in the past i didnt really like them but that was probably due more to installing them poorly. They are pretty easy to get, they are widely avilable online and I think some radio shack stores even have them, or crack open an old busted harddrive, there are some bigones in there. They are dense but are pretty small so its not a big deal.
If you use 4-40 Stainless steel cap head bolts (3/8" long), you can use the clippard 1/16" hose clamps glued into the deck holes to protect the deck. Like this: http://www.scrapcombatships.com/commodore/images/strngun1.jpg Then use 4-40 treaded insearts in the sub deck. Looks sharp, and is durable, and has more hold down force than wimpy magnets.
It looks good but I was lost right after "If you use" so it is screwed down? A few more pics maybe or a link to the parts than I might be able to add 2+2 Thanks Oh man now I really fee like a newbie
knurled brass nuts ... http://www.kennedyhardware.com/image.php?type=T&id=17087 i've never heard of rare earth magnets?
I guess that was pretty unclear. The 4-40 bolt goes though the deck, and treads into the brass treaded inseart in the sub-deck. The clippard hose clamp forms the "hole" the 4-40 bolt goes though. The bolt head bears on the hose clamp, and not on wood (or plastic as the case may be). So you don't chew up deck finish around the bolt. You need 4-40 rather than some other size, as that fits the clippard hose clamp. I will see if I can find a photo around of the whole thing. The cap head bolts are smaller than knureled brass bolts or screws, and look beter. You do need a ball driver to get the deck open, but I consider that a small price to pay for clean looking decks that are very well attached.
The Frog BC in the front has 3 of them in on the midship deck. http://www.glas-info.net/august-2007-d_full.jpg I can't find a beter picture right now.
rare earth magnets that I use (and use in pairs) are only 1/4" dia X 1/16" thick and weigh practically nothing. hardest part is bonding them in, I usually use a very thin bit of steel to get better grip and hold them in the two spots. (I use two to make a mate if I want a really strong joint, one and a bit of steel for a reasonably strong one. http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/
I just use those mirror hold clips or tabs. Not the thick clear ones the other type similar to window taps orlock tabls. Their cheap, easy to install, fast and paint them the same color as the deck you don't notice them. They work great. I got them on Yamato and Roma.
Check out teh photo gallery and look for the Battleship Sandwich. You can view them there and you can view them on the Nabs forum under Roma build, page 6 or 8 or 9.. I forget. Sorry.
I personally have never liked screws of any sort, they take too long to put on and off. I would rather spend more time thinking while at my garage building, than spend time fiddling with screws at the pond. The magnet is a good idea, but for the most part what I do is a careful combination of tongue-ing and flip-levers. For example, take a look here: http://www.westernwarshipcombat.com/gallery/album60/Battle_044 The cruiser in that photo has a pair of flip-levers holding on the main deck. One in the bow, one just forward of "B" turret. Flip the front, flip the back, and lift up on the torpedoes, and I can access everything inside in under 10 seconds. Pretty good, huh? The battleship in the picture has multiple deck pieces held down by four screws each. It can take up to five minutes to open up that ship, which could potentially be fatal if your ESC combusts, your waterproofing on your servos fail, or some other cataclysmic disaster occurs. If I could do it again, I would have the deck tongue under that step in the back rather than using a flip-lever there, and make it even easier to remove. The aft deck is held down with a screw, because I never need to access that during or after combat. Everything I could possibly need to access is underneath the main deck. For the transports I am building, I am planning to do a combination tongue and magnet. Two (or more) magnets to hold down the bow, and the stern will tongue under the superstructure there. I should be able to access the inside of the ship in less than 5 seconds. Because I have such quick, easy access the insides, I do not plan to have any power switches of any sort. Plug the battery in, and the ship is on. Unplug it, and the ship is off. Without a power switch to get shot off or corrode, the ship will be just that much more reliable.
This is it there are no other methods? Or do I need secret squirrel level clearance to advance to the next level of hold downs
Magnets, screws, latches, duct tape, decks that have a tongue that slips under another piece and holds everything down, and decks that just fit tight enough nothing is needed. That really is pretty much it, or some combination or variation of those. Maybe velcro but I cant remember ever seeing that. Deck hold downs are pretty basic, simple things that work. There isn't a real secret to them. If you don't like those feel free to figure out something that works for you and share it with us.
I use a type of push-in expanding plug, meant for holding circuit boards. They section that protrudes above deck looks a lot like a bollard....and no tools are required to remove the deck.
