DKM Bismarck

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by U.S.S. Arazona, Jan 22, 2014.

  1. U.S.S. Arazona

    U.S.S. Arazona Active Member

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    This is going to be my first combat ship, and the first scratch built hull since I recieved some much- needed woodworking experience. I downloaded a set of Daniel's plans and printed off the frames after resizing them for a while since the printer didn't want to print them right the first time. We had a snow day, so I was able to cut out all the frames with the scroll saw.
    [​IMG]
    I still have to cut out a little more on the keel notches as they're still a bit too small. For the keel, I'm going to do something a bit different since the wood I'm using isn't long enough for the double keel. One keel will be made of four sections, one of three, so that the sections for both keels don't come together at the same rib. It should be plenty strong after I fiberglass it on place. I hope to get the keel cut out tommorow, and then test fit all the pieces together and glue them in place. The subdeck will be made once the hull is done, since it's going to be layed out using the hull, it should fit together nicely, in theory:laugh:. For the superstructure I'm going to order a plan from strike and either make it out of cored-out wood or foam, depending on which is better. I'm still debating about the internals a bit. For electronics I'm going with 6v brushless setup, Direct drive on the center prop, a 45A ESC, a Turnigy 9X radio, and SLA batteries.For the pneumatics I'm going to use 12oz paintball Co2 cyllinders since I have several extras of them, and six cannons, two in D turret, One in C turret, and either two in A turret or one in A and one in B. The things I haven't decided about are:
    1. What Kv motor to power the ship
    2. Size/pitch/# of blades on prop
    3. How many batteries/Ah I should use
    4. What Kv motor for the Pump
    I've been looking around at a lot of builds, and they've helped me plan this build out better than my last failed attempt. Thank you guys for posting all these builds, both done and in progress. And to Tugboat, I'm still following you're EQ build, and although this is a wee bit different, I can't wait to see what you do with her. I also wanted to say thanks for actually starting that build to help me get in the hobby, since I never propperly thanked you for doing that. Also, I do want to thank Daniel for sharing his plan set, it's saved me a lot of work, altough I might lose time trying to build that jig to get the middle stuffing tube just right:D
     
  2. Tanaaris

    Tanaaris Active Member

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    Strange!, I kinda saw those image somewhere quite recently... Where was that??? :whistling::whistling::whistling:

    WOW, this is starting fast! It took me a while just to be setup to cut those rib when I started.
    Good luck Captain Crunch, I loved doing that hull and ship, hope the best for you too. (And since you seems to be faster than me, I will blatanly steal some of your best idea if you don't mind!)

    Regarding your keels: I also used interlocking keels and ribs. The ship is now glued, and everything is very firm and stable.
    [​IMG]

    Regarding your props: if you do the keel piercing according to plan (And nothing at all restrict you to that), then the maximum space between the hull and center of rotation of the middle prop is: 1.09 inch (27.8 mm). That will just barely fit a 2 inch prop.
    The side props are far away, and do not cause issue with 2.3 inches between their center of rotation and the closest hull section.
    Personnaly, even if sub-optimal, I will use 3 blades props(Just because the original one had that)

    I did some math earlier today, and if using 6volt system, traying to reach 24 speed, in direct drive, using a 2 inch props (25 deg), you need a rpm of 2203. Which translate to a bare minimum of 367 kv for the motor. might be hard to find one with the proper torque with that rating. (Be sure to a some leeway. a 500kv offer a safety margin of 36%, while using 73% of your stick course range.)
    Same setup with a 1.75 prop. You now need a minimum of 420 kv (At a RPM of 2517)

    If you change your mind. a gear ration of 2.5:1, a 2 inch prop, will need a 2200 RPM at prop, and a minimum of 917 kv. a 1000kv offer 10% safety margin, with 92% of the stick course range used.

    for the battery: Can't help you right now, still figuring it out myself.

    Hope this will help you.
     
  3. U.S.S. Arazona

    U.S.S. Arazona Active Member

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    I got the keels cut out, and fitted the first ten ribs to the keel. I hope to have the hull built including subdeck and put a couple coats of spar varnish on. If I'm lucky, I can also work on it friday and get the hull fiberglassed. The hole for the center prop shaft isn't all that neat, but it came out in the center. I'll add some pictures once the hull is pieced together. Thanks for the info Daniel, I'll go with a 2" prop, and a 500Kv motor on direct drive. I hope to have the electronics in and have her test driven before march, and have her combat ready by mid-march.
     
  4. U.S.S. Arazona

    U.S.S. Arazona Active Member

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    The hull's mostly assembled,just have to do the subdeck and stringers. Once the hull's built and epoxied, there'll be a delay because none of the local hardware stores sell fiberglass, so I'll have to make a trip to go get some. He'res a picture of how she sits now:
    [​IMG]
    The middle double keel comes apart to make three sections.
    [​IMG]
    It won't stay this way for long, they'll be glued and fiberglassed together.
    For the stringers I'm using none other than:
    [​IMG]
    For all your crafting needs since kindergarden :p They're 1/12" instead of 1/8", but they should be fine to have the balsa attatch to.
    That's it for now, more to come over the weekend.
     
  5. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    If you have a lows or home depot nearby they should carry both the epoxy and fiberglass cloth. Looks awesome!
     
  6. U.S.S. Arazona

    U.S.S. Arazona Active Member

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    Thanks! I checked the local lowes, I'm going to try a bigger one in a nearby city and see if they have it, and pick up some stuffing tube material while I'm there.
     
  7. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    Thats weird, never been to a lowes that didn't have it but theres is a first for everything! Also check any local hobby stores. some do carry it as well tubing that can be used for stuffing tubes
     
  8. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Check your local auto stores. They normally have body repair fiberglass cloth and epoxy.

    Ship is looking nice. :)

    Beaver
     
  9. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    oh yeah totally forgot about auto stores haha
     
  10. gunsnrosesx

    gunsnrosesx Member

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    wow i always love seeing scratch build ships coming together looks really good
     
  11. NASAAN101

    NASAAN101 Well-Known Member

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    She's looking good!!! have fun with her!!
    Nikki
     
  12. U.S.S. Arazona

    U.S.S. Arazona Active Member

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    Thanks Nikki, I hope so too:) I'll try the local auto shops, I haven't seen any, but I wasn't looking for any either:) I haven't made a lot of progress yet, I've decided to make a water channel in the middle of the ribs. I also decided to try something new. Instead of using foam blocks to layer the fiberglass over, I'm going to try using spray foam, the same stuff you use on your house, and see how that works, I may try "sheeting" the outer layer in ductape and spraying it on the inside, so that I can pull the ductape off and have it be pre sanded on the outside. I have decided to go with a geared setup, much easier to find 1000kv motors than 500kv ones:)
     
  13. Murchisonge

    Murchisonge Active Member

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    I like the idea of the duct tape and spray foam. I hope it works well for you, then I can use that method on my Wally build. Keep up the good work.
     
  14. SWORRIOR

    SWORRIOR Member

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    Wow, it looks like it's coming along great. Watch out for the expanding foam though. I have used it for several non-hobby-boat applications and depending on the temperature and drying rate, it can actually apply expansive pressure and could warp your hull shape. Just be careful and best of luck. Looking forward to watching this ship take shape.
     
  15. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    I'd be a little careful spraying the foam inside the ship. If the foam is what I think it is (Great Stuff?), it will expand a lot for just a little spray. A little too much of it, and you'll have a boat full of foam that will be hard to get out. That stuff sticks to anything and won't come off easily. It says that it is dissolvable in acetone, but I tried it and it didn't work.
    Might be worth the work to put the tape on the inside and spray from the outside and then sand.

    Beaver
     
  16. U.S.S. Arazona

    U.S.S. Arazona Active Member

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    I cut the water channel into the ribs today and started gluing them to the keel. About halfway through, I realized that part of the keel was CA'd to the plywood I was setting it on, in the process of getting it unstuck, I accidentally cracked here ribs. I got them off the keel before the CA dried, so I have to cut out a few ribs tomorrow to make up for the ones I broke. I just need to remember to put paper underneith the keel sections when I glue them together.
     
  17. U.S.S. Arazona

    U.S.S. Arazona Active Member

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    I got some more done today. The stringers are on, and a rough cut out of the front and mid section of the deck has been fitted to the hull. I still need to finish the aft deck and sand the edges down. Once the deck's on, I'll work on sheeting the bottom of the hull.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. U.S.S. Arazona

    U.S.S. Arazona Active Member

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    She's coming together pretty well. She's been varnished and had the subdeck installed and the deck fitted. The first set of foam is in, with the second soon to follow once the first is dry. I hope to get them both done
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Tanaaris

    Tanaaris Active Member

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    Please add picture when you will be done with cutting and sanding this foam to shape. I wonder how it will end up!
     
  20. SWORRIOR

    SWORRIOR Member

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    Are you planning to use a water channel?