Check the tolerances for length on your rule set to be sure, but in most rule sets being within an 1/8th of an inch is well within tolerance on hull length.
It is within tolerance. I have a long break coming up, so I can sand the deck down to where it fits inside the hull, and then fasten it.
So on the advice of @Beaver I have decided to temporarily skip sanding the decks and fastening them to the hull and I will go on the route of acquiring all the necessary internals required to drive the ship. I have two options that I am aware of that I can follow: I can purchase the Scharnhorst Hardware Kit from Battlers Connection, or @Beaver has graciously offered to 3D print most of the required hardware + turrets and more, and I would only have to purchase a few components from Battlers Connection. Those are my current options. It would be nice to get some other opinions on this. Thanks! It's good to be back!
Hi Jackson, I'm up in Alexandria, I see that you have been on the forum for a bit. It might be worth your time to head up our way (Annapolis) some time to see ships in person and talk through the construction process. The deck shouldn't be 3-4 inches longer than the hull, 1/4" to 1/2" maybe, but not 3-4." I use a handheld jig saw to cut my decks, then a dremel with a grinding bit or just a cut off disc to do any angled portions (typically up near the bow). Every deck is a little different, but it goes inside the hull vice on top. The more difficult measurement is the beam (width), since you only have +/- 1/8" and usually the hull needs to be pushed out or pulled in to get the right dimension. A third option would be to buy things piece by piece. I would only recommend that option with more direct feedback by an experienced IRC battling captain. 3D printing works for some parts better than others. Here is a brief overview of the parts/systems and purchasing options From bow to stern: Some of these things could be grouped with a hardware kit or gun kit from BC/strike CO2 bottle - BC/strike Regulator - BC/strike Radio/receiver - 2.4 GHz, a lot of guys use spectrum dx6i but there are more options on the market now than when 2.4 first came out, including some much less expensive options Gun boards - BC/strike Pump switch/board - BC or Pulolu switch Batteries - you could use lead acid, a lot of guys have shifted to Lithium Iron Phosphate. If funds are tight lead acid is probably cheaper initially, long term LiFe has better performance / energy density Drive motor - 775 from BC Gearbox - will need to work with 775, but large ships should have a gearbox Prop - BC/strike, 2" + ish Drive shaft - BC/strike or buy brass tube and cut yourself, oilite bushings ESC - hobbywing from BC Pump - BC/strike Solenoids - BC/strike Interconnecting wiring - I buy silicone wire and connectors on amazon, there are cheaper wire options, XT-60 connectors are pretty nice for all larger connections, XT-30 for solenoids CO2 hose/fittings - BC/strike guns - BC/strike rudder servo - waterproof from Traxxas or others (minimize potential failure points for rookie ship) Turrets - print / BC/strike. I have a few build threads that outline the process I use (Missouri, Seydlitz, California), generally I cut the hull out, install shafts/motor mounts, waterchannel, deck, then everything inside. You might get 100 replies critiquing my list, but I do battle regularly so I see what stuff is actually being used out there (4 events thus far in 2017) and we are all interested in improving the rookie experience across the board. I'm happy to provide more specific advice offline if that would be useful
Oh my god. Thank you so much for this reference list! I've bookmarked it and without a doubt will check it numerous times in the future. Both the Strike and BC hardware kits are 110, and to be honest I don't have that money at the moment. If decide to go the route of purchasing a kit, I'll have to wait until fall when I have less time. If I get 3D printed parts from @Beaver then I'll be able to work on my boat this summer. I won't include his offer for now because I don't know if he wants me to publish it, but I'll just say it's within range. Do you or anybody else have any advice with this predicament? Thanks!
Just so it's out on the table, I offered to print all the major hardware to get his Scharnhorst on the water for minimal cost. Mainly a gearbox, rudders, servo mount and rudder gears. Then with a shaft, gears, motor, and prop from BC he'd be real close to having a driving ship. Also, I've encouraged Jackson to focus primarily on getting his Shcarnhorst driving and worry about the combat aspect later. I feel that would be the best option in his predicament. What's you all's thoughts?
If you can't swing the hardware kit now, I would recommend working with what you have, and anything Beaver is willing to assist you with The order I would recommend 1) Mark the windows and cut out the sides, this will probably take you a bit 2) Buy three pieces of 1/4" x 4" x 48" balsa to use for water channeling, and some epoxy or polyester resin (smelly). Balsa probably costs about $15, epoxy/resin will be more, you could probably start with a smaller volume but you will need it at many points along the build 3) Make water channeling out of the balsa. Look at build threads to see similar ships, generally this requires cutting and sanding the balsa to match the bottom of the hull which takes some time 4) Install the deck and subdeck. This is also a longer step, so good to get it out of the way and you already have the materials. 5) Install any running hardware you get, so rudder post / servo mount, drive and drag shafts, motor mounts. You can use brass tubes stuffing tube for the shafts for about $10 total These boats do get pretty expensive, and there are costs driving to events / hotels, so future access to funds to support those activities will be necessary to get a boat on the water, though you will find that many captains are willing to provide advice to keep costs to a minimum
