just remember that waterproof for that servo really means slightly better than splash resistant. I have good luck with them but I coat them in grease
Took Tirpitz on her first NY shake down 'cruise' with almost zero success. Complete rudder failure. I was pretty angry with myself for not double checking greg's warning. However, it turned out to be a loose connector. The ship's decade old silkspan/balsa leaked faster than I anticipated. Even though I knew this was going to happen, I still took the ship out without a functioning pump. --- Still trying to pot the pump's ESC. I'm using plastidip so far without much success. I should have just ordered the right spray on stuff from amazon this evening. Maybe I still will. Rearranged the CO2 system as well tonight. The old solenoids are not working, so I ordered a set of new ones for $12ea on Amazon. I will have to pot them; but I remember when they were over $40 a pop! Man, I love amazon!
My favorite substance for coating circuit boards is 3M skotchkote. Two thick layers and it had never failed me. If the ESC has stacked boards you have to ensure to drizzle bunches in between the layers.
That's what many people use. Works well. Plastidip isn't a good waterproofer. It will eventually start to separate from your components and water will get in. Another alternative to skotchcoat is E6000. Put two coats of it over your boards and they should be good.
Sure is. It is all I have ever used. And with proper application it has never let me down. From what I understand it is essentially ABS suspended in a solvent. I know a couple of people who didn't get thorough coverage and had issues. However I know many who have never had any problem at all.
Scotch Kote is very good but I do it one better and pot the whole thing in West System after two coats of Scotch Kote. This way the part is protected from abrasion.
The two best methodologies I know... combined! Has to be even better. Plus the advantage of some physical impact protection for the device.
I won't get them until Thursday, so I'll won't know if they are any good until then. The air flow rate seems good enough - 22 SCFM at 100 PSI. View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KMI3HVI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Well. I guess I'll pick up some Skotchkote tomorrow. I'm not happy with the plastidip results and I'm surely not going to build another leaky waterproof electronics box for this boat.
That's what I thought until I killed 3, admittedly it was almost a decade ago. Today, I'm doing it because I don't see the harm.
No progress this week, I was a little under the weather. The Tirpitz attended the Ming's Moat event this past weekend. It was a great day and I enjoyed meeting many great people that I have only known digitally. The Tirpitz was not able to enter any of the battles, due to several technical issues. However, I was surprised how well it did after being pulled from its long slumber. The three main issues that I need to focus on are: 1.) The drive gears were quickly destroyed by the torque of the brushless motor. I will be replacing them with steel gears with less teeth. My motor uses a 4mm shaft & my drive shaft is 3.25mm. I'm open to suggestions! 2) The spectrum controller seems to have been rewired many years ago (probably by me). Today, it is configured very strangely. Gear/aux is tied to the elevator, as an example. I triple checked the firmware configuration; it isn't some helicopter or other mix-mode. 3. The cannons aren't firing "well". There is a delay in their trigger and they are double firing (maybe one is just really delayed). I will solve the radio issue first before digging in. My gut says there is a pneumatic hose issue as I'm running two cannons from one valve. I was told that guys running triple cannons have found success using a one-way valve. I'm not sure I understand the mechics, but I'll play with that as well as playing with an accumulator.
Hmm, an accumulator in front of the solenoid with check valves on each of the cannon supply hoses might fix your problem. Most generally though it's recommended to just run two solenoids to keep the cannons from robbing air from each other.
I guess I don't understand two solenoids either. As soon as the valve is opened, then all compressed air is exposed to atm. The only question is how much resistance is there to slow it down. I think that's what the check valve solution must be doing. The accumulator solution just makes sure there is enough air in reserve to accomplish blowing both cannons before the pressure drops.
The problem with only using one solenoid is both cannons wont fire at the same time. what will happen is one cannon will reach pressure and fire first bleeding pressure in the system causing the second cannon to either fire weak or not at all. Using two solenoids keeps each gun separate so they won't interfere with each other.
