Sorry my instructions were for 1/32" fast gun hull skins. The difficulty with thicker stuff probably arises from the silkspan separating from the balsa or the ribs due to curvature. The silkspan layer never adheres to both sides at the same level so bends tend to make it peel from the balsa or rib until the contact cement is dry enough to resist that. Up to 24 hours air exposure to be sure. The only real reason to silkspan the inside is to control splintering and chunking, which will clog pump inlet screens. I have tried it with and without the inside layer. Ron Hunt
the issue with putting it on the interior is 1) getting at it once the balsa is on the hull is a pain due the stringer and curve and 2) I have now run out of SIlkspan and as far as I know there has not been a real tested replacement. Just out of curiosity does the fastgun armor not have the same issue with the curves of the hull if done before sheeting?
Some but not as bad. The thinner balsa is more flexible and does not put as much stress on whatever you use to glue the balsa and silkspan together as thicker balsa would. I have had trouble with the silkspan and balsa delaminating at the edges when I use something weaker than contact cement to hold it together. ( like dope or the 77 spray stuff ) Ron Hunt
