Ok, so I have a 1/144 EQ that I would like to refit to improve it some. I am not happy with the lack of water channeling as well as I need to fit it for ballistic shields. Please don't misunderstand, this is no reflection on the builder as he did a good job and gave me a good deal on her. I just have a lot of time and this is the time to do the work before the gear all goes in. I need to know how to improve the water channeling to guide the water to the pump. Currently, it is filled in level with the frames in the bottom, but has space below the penetrable area about 3/4" for most of the length. Also, how does one determine the difference between a 1/2 and a full unit pump? I need to figure out how to post pics, lol.
For smaller ships water channel is less critical. Without knowing how the ship was built, I am not sure how to advise you. Here is how I did it in the Liberty ship I built. https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/liberty-ship-william-dawes.443864/ I had fiberglassed the bottom, then simply cut out the space for the water channel. Put a 1/8 or 1/16 piece of plywood in the bottom. Then apply fiberglass again to seal it up.
You can use any size pump, its the outlet hole size that determines 1/2 or 1 unit pump & the motor cannot be larger than the propulsion motor. Most cruisers don't have water channeling because the hull is small.
http://www.ircwcc.org/files/Bylaws_Rules/Rules_2013.htm#PartIISecG G. PUMPS 1. A pump is a defensive battle unit and shall not be of a positive displacement design. 2. A one-unit pump shall have one round 1/8" inside diameter discharge port. A one-half unit pump shall have one round 3/32" inside diameter discharge port. The port diameter shall be measurable from the outside of the ship. 3. Except as provided in section 11.e, above, a one-unit pump may not be subdivided into two ½ unit pumps. 4. A pump shall have only one electric motor, one impeller and one intake. 5. A submarine may have a pump provided that the pump can only be used to pump water into and out of an enclosed ballast tank. The pump shall not be used for damage control. 6. A pump outlet shall be aimed so that it discharges water outside of the ship at an angle which is either not more than 10 degrees above horizontal, or an angle which is not more than 10 degrees from vertical.
Its not a part of the IRC rules, but it is a part of the old MWC rules, @ship crazy plays with SCRAP and its plausible they still play with that rule. Shouldn't effect @rcaircraftnut though unless he plans to head west.
Pump body was removed, I believe as you can get super powerful brushless pumps that are smaller than drive motors.
Once back to work, I can go to any battle in the USA. Just request my off time in that town, then arrange transport to tha battle from the nearest truck stop.
Smaller boats should not need much in the way of water channeling, more critical weight issues and placement of internals.
Ok, I will just detail it out and battle it then. If it ends up needing it later, I can always add it then.
Ok, got some work done on the boat today. Added barrels to all the dummy turrets. Looks better. Still need to build masts, and boat's/davits. Then I will be happy with it enough for the first battle. What do you guys use to sheet foam superstructure? I hate the look of the exposed foam. Also, do I need to add the outer shafts and drag disks to be rules compliant? If so, what is the easiest way to do this?
Just got done greasing the prop and rudder shafts. As well as gluing in all the faux cannons. Looks better now, and hopefully when I put a battery in it tomorrow morning, the prop shaft won't be squealing anymore, lol.
If this storm ever goes away, blowing up a gale outside, I can get into sea trials. Ohh, I should probably try to find some rocks or something to use as temporary ballast huh?
Sheeting super: if you can afford weight up high, a coat of fiberglass resin. N/A on smaller boats. Just take your beating and move on. Scale number of shafts must be present.
I usually make 1/2 cut dowel hull mounting points glued on, use flat head screw with wheel collet on end to hold shaft glue the other end into the dowel. Add drag disk of polypropelene I use milk bottle plastic, easy to cut & make. held on to shaft with 2 wheel collets on each side. Craig
