I looked at the west systems epoxy today along with some others at home depo and my local hobby shop. I know that the west systems is supposed to be the best there is out there but it seems awful $$$$$. I was wondering if anyone has used the 2 part epoxy/sanding resin from Z-poxy before to seal there boats?? I've used it before on my hydros but was wondering how it would stand up to this hobby. I'm interested to here what others have to say on this matter
The reasons I like West System (or MAS system, too) 1) In the long run of building a whole ship, it's cheaper than buying a couple tubes at a time from Lowe's. Doesn't seem like it, but it really, really is. I think I blew $75 on West, and I'm building 3 ships from it and will still have some left. One ship's worth of 2-tubes epoxy from Lowes was waaaaaayyy more expensive. I used the 2-tubes type on Vanguard and easily spent $100 in epoxy, and I wasn't going crazy with it, either. 2) With the pumps, it's premeasured so any goofball (me, in particular) can get it exactly right, every time. 3) 100% waterproof. Not water resistant, not "it says waterproof on the box", waterproof as in they make real boat hulls from it as in they stay in water all the time waterproof. What I don't like: 1) It's not as thick as the 2-tubes kind I used to get from Lowe's, but you get used to working with that, and it's not a big deal. I just let it sit 2 or 3 minutes before doing most work. Definately worth buying the good stuff, and like I said, it really is cheaper.
Thanks for the imput Tug, I'm ordering about a gallon of the West Systems epoxy tomorrow morning. After you tally up the resin, pumps and hardener its going to run about $130.00 but thats split between 2 people so my cost won't be too bad. Just finishing up planking the hull so when the epoxy comes in next week I'll have every thing filled with wood filler and sanded. The only thing thats going to slow me up is waiting for my cannons from BDE (he's making them so they won't look out of place on the ship, being 1/96 scale). I know where the cannons will go in the hull so I guess the running gear can be put in. Any suggestions on what type of motors I should use, thinking about doing 4 motors w/ direct drive.
There's a few people who use Z-poxy for putting small parts together, like plating superstructure with thin rubber. But for stuff that requires more bulk epoxy (such as waterproofing ribs, planking, or even water channeling) he mixes up the good stuff. I helped him sink-test his most recent project several times last year, and it looks like the Z-poxy held up in the places it was used. Motors? Depends on what speed it needs to go. If you're using the Big Gun speed chart, try for maxons or just about anything that's low-current. If you're going for Big Gun speeds, there's absolutely no reason for your ship to draw more than 2-3 amps in the water. You should also seriously consider using 2 motors and gearboxes. Just don't go with four 550s direct drive on 12 volts, unless you plan to hydroplane circles around MTBs and destroyers.
The other good thing is that the pumps are reusable, so you only have to buy them once. As far as what Carl says about motors... I think it'd be hilarious to watch a BB sinking destroyers with it's wake! Ok, I'm not a destroyer captain right now, so I'm a little biased Maybe a couple of 400-sized motors with one-into-two gearboxes would move the ship at appropriate big gun speeds.
evn though the its displacing 184 pounds? thats a lot of mass to move around with just 2 motors, remember the ship is 8' long
yes it is remember the Yamato weighs around 70# in 1/144 scale, in 1/96 scale the ship is about 3' longer, 16" wide and full load draft is 4.25" and all you have to is the math and presto; heavy boat.
If you don't mind paying a bit more for your motors, try the DUMAS 6 volt or 12 volt motors. When I had a Scharnhorst, I ran two of the 12 volt motors turning 1.25" four-bladed props direct drive. The setup was very efficient, under 3 amps stall if I remember correctly. Before I flattened out the props, it hit 45 knots (25 seconds per 100 feet). Run four of them direct drive and decently sized props and you should be fine. The only downside is their high price per unit. http://www.dumasestore.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=283 http://www.dumasestore.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=280
If I went with those motors I would definately rig it up so they didn't get wet...ever! kind of expensive
The part that I liked about them was that they really didn't mind getting wet. My current ship has a trio of top-quality surplus MAXON motors. Great stuff, very efficient and plenty powerful, but they don't like water very much. The previous owner hadn't taken care of the motors, so by the time I got the ship it only took one sink and the port motor locked up. I broke it free, but it sank again and now all the motors are bad. I'm replacing them with less efficient (but open and air-drying) motors so I never have to worry about it again. I've honestly never operated a ship the size of a 1/96 Yamato, but you might try asking the 1/72 scale club. They mostly use destroyers, but there are a few heavy cruisers and people even build (small) battleships. They currently dwell on the Micro RC Center: www.microrccenter.com/forum/ under "battle warships" Or you could look in the gallery on their website, because it has some pictures of boat guts that might give you ideas: http://www.queensown.org/photo-gallery/
