BX11 Marine ESC, Fwd/Rev any one use or used these in the past http://h1073204.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=TRA3007
I don't like the Proboat ESCs. I tried one, and a few of my buddies tried them, and we discovered that all of them had a rather unpleasant failure pattern. Every person in my club who tried a Proboat ESC found that, about 5-10 minutes after battle began, the ESC would cut out, and kill all control. No throttle, no rudder, no guns, nothing. Cycle the power switch, and control would come right back, if you could get the ship close enough to shore to reach the power switch. Everyone switched to Mtroniks ESCs, because the Mtroniks ESCs either worked perfectly or blew up immediately, instead of waiting until you're surrounded by enemies before shutting down. You'd still have to replace the ESC, but at least you wouldn't have to patch your ship as well. Powder Monkey, I see that ESC is labeled as "marine". However, I don't see it labeled as "waterproof". I've seen a few good "marine" ESCs go belly-up the moment they get hit with a drop of water. The only ones I trust are clearly labeled "waterproof". If you want to, you could probably pot this ESC in epoxy or paint it with Skotchkote, but no guarantees about how that'll affect heat dissipation.
Here is what I am picking up for my Magador. http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store/p/4265-BaneBots-Motor-Controller-9A-peak-.aspx Once I have tried it I shall post my findings.
Well, that is a low amp rating if you're doing Fast Gun stuff. For Big Gun, it should be OK. The motors I usually use have a stall draw of 2 amps each. Running under load, they draw a lot less. Check what motors you use, and you should be OK. The nice part about that ESC is that it is so small and flat that it is easily waterproofed. Cut the heat shrink off, paint it with skotchkote, and re-heat-shrink it. It also should be great for doing cannon rotation.
Well I found the Mtroniks for $53.00 $65 with shipping only one i could find in stock and it was cheapest [] http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=293_51&products_id=18909&pname=M.troniks%20(#MARINE40)%20Viper%20Marine%2040%20Forwards%20&%20Reverse%20Marine%20ESC
The Team Delta RCE-225 for $48.50... works every time, handles more current than we're likely to draw Not proportional, but bulletproof.
OK, to revive this old thread. Can you find a Mtronics Marine ESC at something higher than 40 amps? I've looked, but so far have only seen the 20 & 40 amp models. LW
In a word, yes. Try www.huntersystems.co.uk and look at the truck esc's. Just the thing for a big, fast warship.
For my bigger ships (read bigger battery packs that hold their voltage) I use the Proboats because they're more stable under load than the older mTroniks ECO20 Marine ESC's. Course the Proboat's rated for 40A, versus the mTroniks ECO20 of the era that was only rated for 15 and kept burning out on folks running big honking motors. The Proboat was very stable under load where the mTroniks ECO 20 would not be. However, for the smaller ships with smaller battery packs, I'm using the mTroniks ECO20 as they handle lighter loads better/more smoothly. Course the Proboat now is a couple generations behind the current mTroniks and things change. Proboat hasn't made any improvements, and mTroniks has made a bunch and 2 generation leaps in ESC tech. The Proboat has a power on failsafe to keep the motors from coming on if the throttle is in any position other than neutral, very cool in theory, bad in combat if the ESC reboots due to a voltage drop and possibly causes a reboot of an RX which can also be bad. This feature is what's caused most of the grief out there from what I can tell. The trick on the Proboat is not to let the voltage dip (and cause it to reboot and failsafe). A capacitor into the RX can help with that smoothing things out, or getting better rated battery packs. Separate RX packs seem to help quite a bit, since drawing more than the rated 1A from the BEC is easy to do and also adds to the equation. The draw of the motors when starting them up will cause a large voltage drop momentarily if the batteries aren't rated high enough to deal with the amperage. Small ships with small/lightly rated packs seem to be the most vulnerable to that. My Espana even with a separate RX battery, very efficient motors, and 3AH 10C rated packs, the Proboat would occasionally reboot when firing up the motors, and leave herself dead in the water, which forced me to pull a mTroniks from stock and put it in. Putting 7.2V packs in probably would have reoslved that, but the mTroniks was better suited. On my Dallas (Des Moines class cruiser with 15AH total of batteries, 12AH of that is main power rated at 10C that can withstand 120AH discharge), the Proboat has performed superbly though. All the big/fast ships that it's been in with NTXBG have done nicely with few ESC related issues. This is the equivalent mTroniks at 40A so it should be stable in most ships, and a lot of good features on it that the original mTroniks were lacking. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mtroniks-viper-marine-forwards-reverse-marine40-p-18909.html?cPath=293_51 I've got one for testing purposes, but haven't put it into combat yet. (course, I've got a ton of Proboat and mTroniks ECO20 Marines stocked as well.) For Big Gun especially though, a 40A ESC really is overkill, unless you've put big/cheap surplus motors in the ship. But it's nice to have the reserve just in case. Even so, fuse it at 40A.
Don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. Unless you are running huge honkers of motors though, it isn't required. But for sheer overkill, it'll do the job nicely with a lot of room to spare.
Late to the party, here, but with the Proboats, if you have them, do you also have a computer radio (with EPA's mixes, dual rates, etc)? If so you might be able to set it up where, with the DR switched on, you get the speeed you want, but DR off is full throttle. Thus, when you power eveything up, have DR off. Then when ready to battle, hit DR on. Or creative mixing. Some radios let you mix a channel to itself. Mix off, full throttle travel. Mix on, throttle set to proper speed. The LRP (Team Associated)AI Runner+ I am playing with is waterproofed and is in fairly high amp ratings, but has a delay built in between forwards and reverse, as I recall. Polk makes one that is 100A rated (currently on sale for $20), but you have to waterproof it yourself. It is limited to 10 seconds in reverse, though, so not so good for IRCWCC. They have a 60A version I have not tried on sale for $10. Keep in mind when sizing that a 550 motor is rated at up to a 85-90A draw at stall. Cheers,
Revive thread, go! I just picked up an AI-83060 waterproof ESC for the Fuso, it's rated at 60ah which should be enough for hug n slug tactics. Has anyone else used these? One of your local members had one in his Derfflinger, but hasn't battled in a long time so I don't remember if it had issues or not.
I just got the same one myself. Chris K says he contacted AI, and they claim its only waterproof to a couple of feet. So best thing to do would be sink close to shore. [] I plan on giving it a try next weekend at Ricks, on the Officially Santioned BC test track, IE, the ditch behind his house.
