I've "Olde Skool" scratch built ships before, 3 to be exact, but it was back in '89 and in the 90's. Soooo....... It's been a long time for me. Started with a colored pic and a top view of the espana I found on line and scaled them on my CADD Program, where I Designed the ribs also. I actually started out a bit weird when I started to build. I built all the deck ring and upper portion of the ship first. For me, by doing it that way, I was able to measure exactly where I wanted the ribs to be on the deck rim. I notched these areas, so when I designed my ribs, I used that as the template. It also gave me the advantage of being able to cut the ribs out exactly to what the deck measurements were, and I could see the exact fitment of what I built. From there, things just went together. I used 1/8" ribs. Oh I know, guns hit harder now, but it made it easier for me to shape the ship hull better. From there, The pictures show the progression of my build. I spaced the front and rear ribs the allowed 1" Spacing, as far as I felt was needed based on my past battling and damage seen to my ships. Everything I did was based on what worked for me, and what made my ships pretty reliable, at least in my mind anyway.. This is how it has ended up so far, minus sheeting. Just waiting for some pneumatic fittings and hose from BC to get things on the gun end, so I can sheet and finalize everything up and test. I've always added the adjuster screw at the bottom of my guns. Makes it great for adjusting the piston in the gun, instead of trying to get the correct turns on the bottom nut. Here's hoping to start battling again. Cheers ! Greg
IRCWCC. Fast Gun rules allow 1" spacing center to center on ribs. I re-read it after I read your post. Ya had me a bit nervous there.
I, for one, appreciate the topmasts and rigging as well. Most folks only bother with the lower masts, and it makes these dreadnoughts look rather bare "up there". Your weapon layout is a bit different than what I'd expect. Most ships I've seen would arm the aft-most turret as a haymaker, and put one of the wing turrets to cover the stern arc.
Thanks for the appreciation ! This battleship has such a simple top side, I wanted to put something more to it so it would look like a ship instead of a hull with some boxes on top. As for the gun layout, I've always been a big advocate for actual stern guns on my ships due to my battling style, especially with a slow ship. I'd rather have the hardest and narrowest part of my ship pointing at these big fast battleships, than the long softest side of my ship. My setup is based on a preference to point my stern at these fast battleships as they come for me, start the turn as they get there, and have a better chance of scoring points on them, before they can score points on me. If they insist, due to their speed, to keep trying to get around my slow ship as I turn, I can still shoot their hull as they try. The "SPIRAL OF DEATH" as it would be . If they do get around me with that long nose of their ship, that wing turret side mount of mine should be able to get their bow before they get there bow side mount gun close enough in place to shoot me. I'm definitely not going to keep a slow 28 sec. ship running straight as a fast big battleship tries to come up beside me to shoot the heck out of my hull with their side mount. Turn, Turn, Turn Baby. I usually use my bow side mount for ships in trouble, or if I can sneak up onto a ship that is engaged battling another ship with all their attention on that battle instead of paying attention to me, and I usually head into them, the opposite direction they are running for a fast few shots as I pass them. That's me and my battling style ! Take the least amount of damage I Can avoid, while dolling out as much damage as I can, with a slow stubby ship.
Very nice looking ship. Very sharp looking angle on the dog bones for the props, hope they don't bind.
Not as bad as it looks. I keep about 1/16" play in the shaft. Ran the hooked up motors for about 20 minuts as a break in, and use grease at both connections. The motors are pulling Approx. o.72 no load Amps according to my tester.
Dude please describe that adjustment screw system you have on the cannon. that looks great and I want to figurre out how to emulate it on my high-flow guns pics of that system on the cannon both disassembled and with greater detail would also be appreciated.
Morning ! All I did was drill a hole in the bottom of the Brass Cap, Soldered a small Brass Nut onto the bottom centered in the hole I drilled, and Cut down the brass screw to the length I wanted. I will be using a small wrap of plumbers tap on the screw threads, so it won't leak. It also helps keep the adjustment brass screw in place. It really helps in getting the piston height set exactly where you want it, and you can get the small hose fittings pointing in the direction you want no matter how loose or tight you make the cap.
I know this is a bit of a necro-post, and I'm honestly not sure how I ended up here, but this is a damn fine build and just A+ all around and I couldn't not say that. Very well done.
