You can use aluminum backers on the ribs and deck edge for more durability.(Aluminum tape?) 1/4" x 1/8 aluminum bent to fit behind each rib. A Spartan solenoid will save a bunch of weight over the Kip. (possible 3d printing of the brass part to save weight) Spartan 3827 series is the lightest you can get I think. $20 at USPlastics. 1/4" OD tubing from reg to solenoid to avoid the expansion tank. (will look at that) Molded channeling with motor mounts, stuffing boxes, pump base? (3d printed motor mount and hold down for the pump) Drop in pre-molded penetrable sections out of thinner polystyrene? (not sure what you mean. To keep cost down a single sheet is used. Just cut out between ribs, cuts like butter) I was thinking replaceable panels that would fit in the openings. I can do a detailed thread on converting a washer pump (like I did with my Mogador). It's more compact than the BC pump. (We wanted something they can buy off the shelf and to support other vendors. More experienced captains will modify to their liking)
Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought the Fletcher class was a 1 unit ship? does that mean a half pump and a 25 shot cannon?
Great! I am going to build it the "easiest way" so a rookie can show up with a ship and a functioning cannon. More experienced can modify and place the cannon fore or aft depending on their game plan. Nothing exotic or radical, this ship is merely a gateway into the hobby. Hopefully it will encourage others to build their dream ship, but still show up for the rest of us with a functioning boat. All too often captains take on too much and never make it to the water, build threads on here show as much.
Yes, that is correct. You can always ask before the battle to be allowed to use your 50 bb's. We will look at the future to modify the hull to become a gearing which is allowed the 1.5 units. Another key is everything inside the fletcher can be transferred to a new hull, so if a gearing comes out just move the internals to the new hull.
My experience with the Mogodar is that a DD is inconsequential to the battle but is a blast to drive. It will wet the appetite of the builder to build something bigger. Not cheap to run though. CO2 capsules add up.
Also, the washer pump is (IIRC) a positive displacement pump. The rules require a pump of a non-positive displacement design.
Depends on the pump Tuggy. The 2000 Jeep Wrangler pump I use in the Moggy is centrifugal (non-positive displacement).
Looks like a great project, Lou! Do you have any trouble getting the hulls off the plug. How much will one of these run for? I might be interested in one.
Using an exacto knife with #2 blade, easy cutting. Doesn't need to be perfect now, will clean it up later with sandpaper.
Sides cut out as well as sub-deck. Took about 20 minutes. I would suggest drilling small holes in all the corners, just to make it even easier.
Plastic used for the sub-deck, still has on the blue film but once removed you will be able to see into the boat (Genius!) Tape will be used to hold it on. Now you have a waterproof deck, top deck is just for show.
Propulsion. Screws from BC, rest of the parts from the kit (except the JB weld). Motors are attached to the shafts with collars and SS screws. No rusting on that part, thank you very much. Check out that sexy motor mount, currently missing the part that attaches to the hull.
Have we advanced far enough in miniaturization of technology to make this a viable first ship? I've read several posts on this forum telling beginners to steer clear of destroyers as first ships.
