Got some more time with the boat, still waiting on a few parts so I started with the superstructure. Everything on a sheet, use scissors, x-acto, and sandpaper. The turrets even have a bottom with ring.
Set the rudder holder in place, there is a groove at the bottom that uses the hollow keel so that the servo wire can pass. Rudder arm is on with two set screws to keep it from spinning. I will repair the hole I cut, I can get to everything and not need to cut the next hull (sorry Phil!).
They are not angled, so the same distance between the motor shafts. This is designed to get an inexperienced builder up and running with minimal issues, so the motor mount, shaft holes in hull, and placement of rudder are predefined. Of course a more experienced builder can play around with angles and rudder placements, but this setup so far has shown to be a winner. More pictures once the solenoids get here.
Still a work in progress, and with multiple captains helping we are always refining the process (we really want to see more captains on the water). Let me state again, this is not a game changer in any battle. This is not "optimized" to take advantage of rules or years experience. Think of it like this, you would not put a first time driver in a Porsche. You want something reliable that will get them on the water almost every time (hey, no one is 100%). So... looking at the aluminum coupling there was concern that only two set screws could lead to issues. So this brass (a little heavier, but with 4 set screws) is the solution.
That is one high rpm motor. Surprised it's working well for you. Specs: SR-65S Super High Speed Electric Motor (273-0256) Specifications Faxback Doc. # 19832 Type: ...................................... Heavy Duty Series/Carbon Brush Mounting Screws: ................................................... 2.5 mm Outer Diameter of Motor: ............................ 27.7 mm or 1.091 Inch Shaft Diameter: ..................................... 2.3 mm or 0.0905 Inch Motor Extension: .................................... 10.0 mm or 0.394 Inch Length of Shaft (case to end): .................................... 15.7 mm Shaft to Base: .................................................... 51.0 mm Weight (approx.): ................................................. 49.0 gm At 9 Volts: Speed, No Load: ................................................ 11,500 RPM Current Drain at No Load: ................................. 0.28 - 0.350 mA Speed at Maximum Efficiency: .................................... 9,200 RPM Current Drain at Max. Efficiency: .................................. 1.86 A Stall Torque: .................................................... 180 G-cm At 12 Volts: Speed, No Load: ................................................ 17,500 RPM Current Drain at No Load: ................................. 0.29 - 0.360 mA Speed at Maximum Efficiency: ................................... 13,200 RPM Current Drain at Max. Efficiency: ................................... 1.9 A Stall Torque: .................................................... 240 G-cm At 18 Volts: Speed, No Load: ................................................ 24,000 RPM Current Drain at No Load: ................................... 0.32 - 0.40 A Speed at Maximum Efficiency: ................................... 18,000 RPM Current Drain at No Load: .......................................... 1.98 A Stall Torque: .................................................... 350 G-cm Mounting holes are tapped for M2.6 screws on shaft end on 16 mm centers. Specifications are typical; individual units might vary. Specifications are subject to change and improvement without notice.
OK, got the order so lets look at the differences. About the same size, anyone know how to hook up the electronics (those are some big spade connectors)
Here is where it pays off, and not just being half the cost of a Kip. For the Kip: Now for the new one: Half the weight!
The Spartan's use 1/8 NPT. I use push to connect 1/4 OD to 1/8 NPT in. and 1/8 OD to 1/8 NPT out. I have purchased the push to connect fitting from both MettleAir (EBAY) and Clippard. I have not noticed a difference in the two other than color.
Pay no attention to the poor layout. This was thrown together the day before battle when I gave up on the old KIP's. 1/4" tube directly to the solenoid.
The spade connector closest to the 1/8" NPT ports is just a ground. It can be cutoff if you want. On my Spartans I solder wires to the other two spades and then heat shrink.
Surprisingly McMaster has some decent pricing on push-to-connects: 1/4" OD: http://www.mcmaster.com/#51025k177/=zsl1ok 1/8" OD: http://www.mcmaster.com/#51025k171/=zsl2sk
MettleAir has free shipping. McMaster always seems to be a little high on the shipping........ I would have to include shipping to see what the best price would be. I like the initial price from McMaster.
