Okay cool. I'll pull them this weekend and get them parallel. shouldn't be too hard to do, plus I can upgrade the wiring while I'm in there.
Done. and it appears that my boat's top speed is now somewhere in the vicinity of luminal. and.... my servo got swamped last night. so it is acting up now. I have a spare, but is there any way to fix or clean or salvage a twitchy servo? still takes commands, just twitches a lot.
Good news. I took apart the servo, and put it in a pile of dessicant I usually keep in my gun safe. there was water inside the main chamber, and I dealt with that before leaving it in the dessicant for 24 hours, but the thing was still twitchy, so I took out the potentiometer and let it stew until tonight (six days). put it back together and it's good as new. I plan to get some dielectric grease, and if needed, test O-rings. question: can I flood the gearbox section with dielectric grease? I intend to flood the lower section (where the motor and electronic board are located). Won't be for a while, so do weigh in.
What servo were you using? Did you do anything to waterproof it? Going intrusive for servo waterproofing has gone out of style (maybe not in forum land, but definitely pond-side). my boats have spent a lot of time on the bottom with very few issues
I am using a HiTech HS-625MG I did nothing to waterproof, as I kinda spaced on that until after I did a post dry-out systems check. I am currently looking at getting a HS-646WP as a replacement. Alternately, I am fine with having a trio of 625MGs and just having a ton of dessicant time.
Yeah... there are ways to waterproof but not worth the key strokes haha. I use the Traxxas wp servos. Some on the forum vehemently oppose them (I’m not sure why they fail with the boat on the shelf, but apparently the non-use failure rate is astronomic). I battle a good deal, sink a good deal, maybe had 1 fail in 15ish events over the past two years, probably over 30 sinks.
you sold me. I'll try those then. Tomorrow's ten hours of overtime will square away that budget line item.
Don’t forget about the Hobby King $5 waterproof servos. The one I have in Invincible has lasted 16 sorties and 2 sinks with no twitching at all. For $5 it’s already surpassed my expectations.
I'll see about them too. right now I have a nice metal servo arm that's not compatible with either. I don't plan on sinking any time soon, so I will look at my options.
Yup that works. Fill the pot with it if you can. The servo should run until the motor wears out. There are a lot of ways to do it that all work. (and plenty that dont too)
See if you can fit a greased o-ring between the servo horn and servo body. Run a bead of E6000 over the case joint, screws, and cable penetration areas.
there's a set of bearings in there that'd get in the way. pack the bearings with dielectric as an alternative and get the same effect?
Took her out for testing last night before the thunderstorms rolled in. The new top speed is *ridiculous*. I had to dial back to fifty percent throttle to get back around 28 seconds. reverse is is no longer bad now. I can back up in a straight line. Overall, running the motors parallel worked. However, it looks like my pump is still stuck in the doldrums. as soon as I apply any throttle, the pump cuts out. even just enough to turn the props at like 20 rpm, it cuts out. any amount of throttle shuts it down. so you won't have to go back to see how I did it, my pump is plugged straight into the BC board. no ESC or anything. it runs off of a switch on my transmitter. I think the drive motors are just getting priority within the BC board. it's not bogging the pump down, as I initially thought, it straight-up shuts off the pump when any measure of throttle is applied. So, how do you guys have your pumps run when you're wired into a multi-B? should I put an ESC between the Multi-B and the pump? currently running 6V, 20AH from two 3.2V 20AH LiFePO cells. same type as what Kevin uses. (ALSO: testing was done with a full charge on the packs)
nothing? I'm not following. could you describe how a BEC would be applied to the system? maybe I have one...
do you mean the BEC between my drive motor ESC and the receiver? I have nothing like that on the pump. it is literally just plugged into the board. gets direction and power straight from the Multi-B
BEC stands for battery eliminator circuit. Basically just a voltage regulator thta feeds 5v to the RX. Most ESCs have them and I believe the Multi B has one built in too. Do you know how much current your BEC is providing?
no, no idea. the receiver is getting power straight from the drive motor ESC. I can't really figure out where you're going with this. let me wargame this through real quick and we'll see if I can follow you on my own and save you some time I think you're talking about the leads from the Multi-B to the receiver(which control the guns, pump etc). those don't feed power to the receiver. @Kevin P. had me unplug that little doohickey on the Multi-B a while back. the sole source of electrical power going to the RX is from the throttle lead connecting it to the drive motor ESC. the ESC, in turn, is wired to the Multi-B to get power from the batteries. the pump is wired into the board The batteries are wired into the board I'm not seeing how any of this is a problem. do you have pictures or schematics of how you ran your pump from a Multi-B or C?
