Its not really the voltage, its the amperage that these new Batts can provide in a short burst that makes it dangerous. You generally don't see those loads in the lower voltage setups though.
ah, yeah. spaced on that. I'll just stick with my current batteries until I build something that requires a different setup
so....... my soldering torch is giving me some trouble this morning.... I think I just generally have issues with fire. Refit parts are here for the most part. enough to get me on my way. as soon as my torch stops being a scoundrel. I think I am going to re-rig my forward mag tube while I'm waiting. @Bob helped me get my guns squared away last week when they went down due to some rusted BBs, and he had the most trouble with the bow sidemount because it's soldered together and a real pain to get out of there. the objective is to get a tighter coil and have the whole thing fit within the B turret Barbette, so that I can just slide it out, instead of having to disassemble the whole mount and move all of my electronics to get at it.
some keyboard pretender is probably going to start banging away about why this is bad, but I've been doing it for 8+ years on the same guns without an issue - after the battling is done, take a can of wd-40, shove the straw into the mag fill port or down the barrel, and pull the trigger. Next time you fire your guns its going to be a bit of a nasty spray, but I've yet to have a lingering rusty bb jam up a gun.
Around here the typical procedure is to just fire all the BB's out of your guns before you go home. Maybe that's too easy but it seems to work.
yeah I took off the mag caps and fired the guns to clear them. the whole mag dumped in about a second out of the fill port. pretty effective, if you have the gas to do so, which is my big problem here in nowhere Wisconsin
We usually dump them that way too, but sometimes theres a stray in there that doesn't want to leave, or people have to leave in a hurry for whatever reason. And sometimes gas supply is an issue.
I'm only a few hours, and two packages from being done with the electronics refit. The packages should arrive tomorrow or tuesday, and I'll finish then. Here's some photos of the progress Of note: I am going to armor the wires with lexan, and additionally all of the deans connectors will receive a liberal coating of dielectric grease. I am currently re-running them all dip over the armor in order to keep the wiring etc out of the water as much as possible. That Haymaker solenoid's connector is the most egregious example, and what I'm currently adjusting. I intend to refine the concept in the New Mexico and Alaska by incorporating a wiring trench into the upper ribs, complete with its own lexan armor plate and readily accessible from the interior. the Texas is the test bed to see how well the de-cluttering goes. Now that the interior of the hull looks less embarrassing, I'm hoping I'll be able to post up a Stem To Stern before the time runs out @NickMyers
got the new battery tray completed. once I get the straps back in place, this will do nicely. After that, I managed to get the lights off my bike and get a few amusing pictures of the amount of damage the boat has taken in four sorties. the starboard side has taken enough damage to let out enough light to make it a blurry photo.
Problem: the bullet connectors I used in the hull all have signs of corrosion. Done: replaced with Deans Connectors Problem: Wiring is stiff, likely has some corrosion, solder jobs are not holding up Done: Noodle Wires for ALL electrical, with better shrink tubing at junctions Problem: Battery inversion likely fried something within the ESC Done: Two new ESCs are on the way, and all batteries now have wire harnesses attached to prevent inversion Problem: 1.5" 25 pitch props had inadequate thrust Done: replace with on-hand 1.75" 40 pitch props Problem: props too far back for adequate maneuver Later this winter: cut shafts back 1/4" to 1/2" Second-Order Problem: Props will strike hull if I move them back further Solution: Pose question-- Can I modify the hull to allow the props proper clearance? Problem: Forward Gun is functional, but extremely hard to remove for maintenance Secondary Problem: B turret barbette is integral to the hull Fix 1: remove solder holding it together and replace those with fittings to allow quick disassembly Later Solution 2: redesign mount Later Solution 3: Possible Replace with one of the newfangled 3D printed turrets at some future date As soon as I get in the ESC set, the boat will be ready for Saranac. I still have to see if I can fit it in the budget. Hopefully this weekend's overtime due to some jerk illegally cutting timber on my timber sale to make a shooting lane for his deer stand will help cover it. I'm going to show up early saturday morning while he's hunting, and give him a nice big fat fine. If he doesn't cooperate, I'm going to include that, and charge him by the number of trees he cut, which will multiply the fine by a factor of six or so. FYI: Do not cut timber on Federal Lands without having the right contracts and permits. they'll send us out on our day off to catch you.
So when I went out to ticket the hunter this morning, his stand, bait, and camera were gone. good. In other news, I received the last parts I needed to put the boat together, and.... yeah the props are screaming. I had to dial the power back by 50% to keep the system from ripping itself apart because the props aren't balanced. Since I have an ESC for each of the motors, could anyone tell me which color wire to pull so that my battery is only powered by one of the ESCs?
I'm guessing you mean receiver and not battery? In that case you want to pull the red (positive) wire from the center of the signal cable. That way the BECs aren't fighting each other.
Some have done as much. I have not heard of anyone having significant issue with the practice. I don't even know what rule it could conceivably violate.
Thanks Nick. With all of the screaming my drives were doing last night, I don't think I need these 1.75 props. so...... this may be moot. Today is testing day. I have a full charge, props, a fully operational boat, and the day off. then..... oh then. Stem to stern.
took the boat out to the pond to run some tests. the pump runs fine now, solenoids check out. But the motors are having issues. the motors run for about four seconds on full throttle, then cut out. so I reversed, and had the same problem. ran the boat at half throttle, and it goes, but pitifully slow. I pulled the boat back in, put it up on the dock, and ran the motors at full throttle forward and reverse. no problems. plugged in my new inline meter, Cell reading was 3.4 volts, with 0.00Amps with the motor running out of the water. Put the boat in the water, and ran up to half throttle. 6.6 volts, with each motor drawing 4.5 amps. Put the boat up to full throttle, and the motors cut out at 6.56 volts and 9 Amps. checked the batteries. both are sitting at 3.40 volts. Switched out batteries, and the same from those ones too. So, I checked the ESC troubleshooting sheet, and it says for "Motor suddenly stops running" that there are the following issues to check: A) Throttle Signal is lost B) The low voltage cutoff protection of the ESC is activated C) The thermal cutoff protection of the ESC is activated I checked the ESC connectors--no problems. turned rudder while running at full throttle and cutoff--no signal loss I then felt the temperature of the ESC: cold. So now, I am at my house, charging the batteries. Nominal of those batteries at full charge is supposed to be 3.6 volts, so I think that is the issue, and I charged them a week ago. Beyond that: If anybody has a Hobbywing Quicrun WP-1060 brushed ESC, I am open to suggestions. I am hoping that the low charge is the culprit, because I am out of ideas.
and I just checked the battery that came off the charger. 3.47 volts. I'm kinda lost right now. these batteries have less than a season on them.
You should be running the batteries in series and not in parallel. You're probably tripping your low voltage cutoff.
yeah no, I am checking them singly because the battery harness has deans on one end and an XT 90 on the other due to the BC board. they're running in series, so two cells is giving me double that. The system (board, ESC, etc) won't even initialize if I don't have both batteries connected.
