Can you wire in a third cell and test with that? This will tell you if your having a low voltage issue.
You most likely have the wrong low voltage protection set point selected. You want to select the ‘nimh’ setting, not the "LiPo" setting. You have to change the position of one of the little switches, or change the jumper position, the two options should be labeled on the ESC. If you can’t figure it out take a picture up close of the ESC from the top
Ah. so that's what that is. So the ESC has a three prong jumper cap circuit. The options are "LiPO" and "NiMH" in the 2S LiPO setting, the cutoff points are 6.5 (half) and 6.0 volts (shutdown). In the NiMH setting, the cutoff points are 4.5 (half) and 4.0 volts (shutdown). Guess which one I had it on. Thanks for the help guys, I'll switch the battery mode and see how that works.
Boat works. pump's screaming now and able to empty the hull while doing full speed. Ran with 1.75 props and the boat was hydroplaning. it was impressive. She could probably run down a destroyer at full power. Maneuver was good, about a 12 foot combat radius, which at scale is 576 yards to the real Texas' 620 yard combat radius. Switched to the 1 inch 40 pitch props. speed was still good, accelerated like a dog, but the turning radius was about 9 feet ( 432 yards scale). Then as the last test, I ran her with the 1.5 props. Good acceleration. speed is still high. combat radius was about 10 feet ( 480 yards scale). I'll dial her speed back to 28 seconds inside the transmitter from here. Just have to set up an actual speed course. here's what she looked like full-bore with the 1.5 props. Other than that, she's ready to fight. Winter will involve further work on the shafts, with shaft struts a definite on the list, and trimming the shafts back as a likely. she'll never be perfect, so the goal is reliable.
Glad to see you have her dialed in. From a dead stop, with rudder hard over, does she pivot in place or take some room to come about?
takes a bit of room. maybe two shiplengths. I can turn her from a dead stop inside of the boat launch
You should be able to get better turning than that once you make those tweaks. My KEVII can turn sharper than that without drag props. Definitely move your shafts forward and get your rudder under the hull. If you're up to it you can tear the shafts out and toe them in a bit. That will direct the thrust more towards your single rudder. Nice build BTW!
Shaft-ectomy's are fun. I think I did 3 last year (Missouri, Seydlitz, Fiji). Missouri and Seydlitz were not supposed to be removable ever so those were a pain, but Fiji was pretty quick. I typically dread them more than I need to, once you get cutting it is pretty fun. And think. you don't have struts to worry about at this point On this boat I would cut out the wood along the shaft+gearbox on both sides, then cut out whatever part of the frame would get in the way of toed-in shafts, then tape off the bottom and fill in the holes with fiberglass (amazing substance really). Once the new 'hull' portions were good, I would cut holes as necessary and epoxy in the shafts and gearboxes together. Add struts after shafts dried. Probably have pictures of this in Seydlitz build. Could be done in 3-4 medium days This all may sound extreme, but the benefits of much better turning typically outweigh the additional work/'risk.' The alternative is usually continual frustration with boat ability once experience/reliability grow.
Thanks. Yeah I'm not going to toe in the shafts... that'd be really involved since I used the mounts Mark built into the hull. This boat has been an excellent test bed, and I think after I steal some of your gun mount designs and cut the shafts, that she's done with major mods. then the focus will be 100% on reliability. Texas will then be my "ready" boat, and I'll incorporate all of the lessons learned into the New Mexico and Alaska.
Also.... there is gravel ballast all around the shafts. I'd risk physical injury if I tried getting in there. I'm fine with the current regime. I'll totally check it out when I see you at Saranac later this month, but with how I built that section of the hull, I'm not willing to go in there and shatter a cutting wheel into my face
PPE is always important, I don't cut without almost 100% face coverage, shop vac is key as well. If I make it to MI I'll save most BB's for Kas, but he typically runs away (and can turn quite well, which makes it hard to pin down without support)
If I ever make it to MI with you, I'll make sure to go 5 out of control in front of him so he can't run away for you @Anvil_x awesome build so far. I've been eyeing up that lasercut texas kit myself to add to the list of ships to build. When I inevitably do, I will reference your build plenty. You did a great job. The advice regarding maneuverability is solid though, I had the same kinda issues with Dunkerque (still do) and while I dreaded the idea of pulling my shafts and cutting into my brand new boat I completely de-skegged the hull and it helped a ton with larger props and rudder. I'm not toed in because it would've involved even more hull destroying, but every boat from now on will be, it's so crucial to single rudder ships it's silly. Hope to see you on the water sometime.
I'm less than 50% here for the battling. Most of my interest is building *new* systems while using my previous systems as active, existing templates. So. No. I will not rip apart my boat. I have absolutely no interest in reinventing the wheel in one hull when most of my interest in the hobby is building new hulls. Boats are complex engineering Jigsaw puzzles. the puzzle has been finished. Next Puzzle. That's how I operate. I'll just build the next boat better. Reliability is the focus on Texas after the shaft cut and struts. There are a few things I'd suggest if you're going to build the hull: the C turret portion of the upper deck will annoy you. figure out some way to minimize its existence, such as removing the vast majority of it and extending the aft deck plate to include C turret. B turret will also annoy you. if you can figure out how to reduce them both to crossbraces and allow you to make a single removable deck, do it. The rudder tray can be modified to allow you to place the rudder shaft further forward, and can also be greatly reduced in profile. Overall, it's an awesome kit. it's been fun to build. But the primary issues I've had with it are access in the spots where I need access the most, and those are under B and C turrets.
I don't mean to sound like a Jerk, but when I say "No", I mean in civilian terms "Never. Don't ask again."
No jerkyness assumed. I am like you, I won't destroy Dunkerque to toe-in the shafts but it's become a mental note for the next bigger and better project. I too enjoy building almost more than battling.
Yeah, again, especially to Kevin, Sorry. I really don't like coming across as terse, but I took a really bad blast injury in Afghanistan that caused a bit of Dain Bramage which makes it really hard to be sure that I'm getting my point across. So I'm often worried I'm either beating a dead horse or worse yet, not making the point I'm trying to make.
You should do great here in Mi. than, they have put up with Mine and Kas,s Soft spoken demeanor for so long that having someone who can get the point across will probably be a refreshing change for the rest of them. hope the weather is good and we get to see you on the water here in October. Craig
I have been thinking about the depth of our Saranac pond and a battle on Oct.20 I have been in my lake and it was COLD. As is my custom, I have a solution: 8548 Morrison Lk. Rd. Saranac , MI.
