FN Gloire Rebuild - was Emile Bertin Modernization

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Beaver, Feb 7, 2017.

  1. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2008
    Posts:
    1,164
    Location:
    Mongo
    the shorter, the faster things happen. Only issue with building it into the Tee is placement.
     
  2. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    Looking at things, there isn't really a nice place to move the solenoid closer to the gun. I would have to build a flat spot to glue the solenoid mount. I'll see what I can cook up, thanks.
     
  3. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    Well, contrary to what I previously though, I can't move the solenoid closer to the gun without it being in the way of the magazine. The only place the solenoid fits and isn't in the way is where I had it originally. I guess I'll just have to deal with the longer run. :(
    That leads me back to my original question, is there any advantage to running 1/8'' hose to the gun then dropping down to 1/16"? Would that help with flow, would it be extra work for no benefit?
     
  4. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2009
    Posts:
    1,869
    Location:
    MD
    1/16" from the solenoid to the cannon. Less volume that would suck pressure from the equation. As far as getting the solenoid closure to the cannon. Is there room for a Stynger setup?
     
  5. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    Nope, there is barely enough vertical room to fit the cannon.
     
  6. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2008
    Posts:
    1,164
    Location:
    Mongo
    1/16 will work fine. Cycle rate will be a little slower but not too much. You still will be able too keep up with steve, he will be to busy looking at his VEX and wondering what button to push.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
  7. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    So I wanted to pot the receiver for this boat in epoxy. I had given it a coating in E6000 a while back, but it was hurried and wasn't very good. I also never liked my previous potting jobs where it was just large block of epoxy. I like it more uniform.
    So for this job I printed a casing to pot the rx in. I'm really happy with how it came out and will use it on all my receivers from now on.
    IMG_0861.JPG
    And now @NickMyers you know why someone would print a box for their receiver. ;)
     
  8. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    Posts:
    4,409
    Location:
    Federal Way, WA
    looks like a close fit. hope you left room for the epoxy to flow around the edges and fill the bottom space. Printed ABS can be semi porous without further treatment.
     
  9. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Posts:
    2,120
    Location:
    Smyrna, Georgia
    Tap the bottom of the solenoid for the input, use 1/8th lines. Should be able to move them closer to the Tee's this way?
     
  10. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Posts:
    2,120
    Location:
    Smyrna, Georgia
  11. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    Poured in the bottom, pressed rx in, added more on top.
     
  12. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    I'm using the plastic Spartans. Can't really drill them.
    The problem is there's just too much stuff in the way. The only open spot to put the solenoid closer to the gun is too close as the solenoid interferes with the magazine.
     
  13. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Posts:
    2,120
    Location:
    Smyrna, Georgia
    got a pic?
     
  14. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    DSC_0079.JPG
     
  15. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Posts:
    2,120
    Location:
    Smyrna, Georgia
    Can you mount the cannon in the SS towards the bow? Other than that, maybe put an angle on the uptube to raise the Tee and bend the magazines to the outside?
     
  16. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    Hadn't thought about moving the gun back. It looks like it might just all fit that way. Could need a little bend on the uptube to get the mag to clear the drive chain guard, but that shouldn't be an issue. I'll let you know how it works out.
     
  17. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Posts:
    2,120
    Location:
    Smyrna, Georgia
    Or make an Avenger cannon :)
     
  18. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    But then I have to hide a 75rnd mag in the SS. :confused: ;)
     
  19. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2009
    Posts:
    1,869
    Location:
    MD
    Dump that space hog 90 degree breach and build a 45 degree uptube. The you can then angle the tee and run the mag up over the solenoid. You can also get creative and route the mag off to the side if you have to.

    upload_2017-7-26_9-14-53.png

    upload_2017-7-26_9-15-17.png
     
  20. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,707
    Location:
    Central PA
    Not been posting much, but I've been continuing the refit. Currently pretty close to having her ready for battle. Just needs a few more things done and a sheeting job.

    I'm still debating how to do the battery mount. I'm thinking I'll just build brackets to hold the two ends and keep the battery in with a velcro strip on the bottom. Printed a clamping mount for the BC light reg, very secure.
    DSC_0133.JPG

    Mid-section is fairly empty. Electrical wiring and Co2 supply run on either side of the hull. I printed a slide in pump mount that works pretty well. That aluminum piece protruding out of the subdeck is the magazine mount.
    DSC_0134.JPG

    Looking aft, I printed a cover to go over the drive chain. Wouldn't want anything getting caught in that. Holes are to tighten the set screws on the sprockets. Also printed a mount fore the solenoid which is kind of jury mounted/glued fast, but not very permanent. Right now working on a printed rudder servo mount.
    DSC_0135.JPG
    Switched to bigger props. Speed was barely adequate with the old 1-inchers. So I got longer shafts and moved the props out farther so I could fit 1 1/4 inch propellers. She's now able to get to over 22seconds so I'll be able to add drag props and not kill my speed. Only thing is I don't really like all that unsupported shaft. I think I'll add some shaft struts with bushings in them to give more support near the props.
    DSC_0136.JPG

    Pump discharge, O-ring sealed. Wondering what that other hole is for? Dont ask. :bang:
    DSC_0137.JPG

    Business end almost ready for final mounting.
    DSC_0138.JPG
    Enjoy!
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2017
    SteveT44 likes this.