French Cruiser Émile Bertin

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Tankman, Jul 10, 2020.

  1. Tankman

    Tankman Member

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    Hello, I need some assistants. I have started building the French light Cruiser, Emile Bertin. I have completed most of the hull and am currently working on the water channeling of the ship. I am looking for help as to the next steps in the build process hoping to get this ship battle-ready.

    Thanks
    Max IMG_6471.jpg
     
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  2. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    Hi there Max. Nice looking hull so far!

    Some suggestions as you move forward,

    It looks like you are removing the top parts of the ribs as you move forward, which is good. All of the ribs will want to have that top part which crosses from side to side removed. Basically, the whole ship should look like the rear most ribs as shown in your picture. You will want to leave the crossmembers intact for the deck step area, any others are up to you as the builder. Just remember it'll be really hard to get stuff in and out of the boat with a bunch of crossmembers in the way.

    I can see in your picture you also have some sort of propeller shaft stuffing tube in place, which is great. They look like they come into the hull at a pretty steep angle, don't be afraid to move them around some at this stage in the build to try and keep the propeller shafts as parallel to the keel as possible. Some angle is OK, too much angle will result in subpar performance and it'll be difficult to mount the motors correctly.

    What sort of advice/help are you looking for, specifically?
     
  3. Tankman

    Tankman Member

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    Thanks for your reply.

    Looking to determine; how many units my ship has, so that I may purchase cannons, as well as, understand more about how the electrical works for the ship overall.
     
  4. Connor

    Connor Member

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    the emile bertin is a class 2, 2 unit ship. and i believe 22 s.

    i know this cuz im at the start of building one but ill grab he website for you so you cna get 100% correct info.

    http://ircwcc.com/main/shiplist/
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 11, 2020
  5. Tankman

    Tankman Member

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    Thanks, what places would you recommend to purchase cannons, bilge pumps, and or electronics?
     
  6. Connor

    Connor Member

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    Well, have you gotten in contact with your local club? But battlers connection is a good place to get stuff, for props motors, guns, solinoids, pumps. Pretty much whatever you need.
     
  7. Boatmeister

    Boatmeister Active Member

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    Max,
    Here's some pics of a cruiser I am working on. This may offer some visual help with the ribs IMG_20200711_215230323.jpg IMG_20200711_215222940.jpg IMG_20200711_215216963.jpg IMG_20200711_215211588.jpg IMG_20200711_215206030.jpg IMG_20200711_215230323.jpg IMG_20200711_215222940.jpg IMG_20200711_215216963.jpg IMG_20200711_215211588.jpg IMG_20200711_215206030.jpg IMG_20200711_215230323.jpg IMG_20200711_215222940.jpg IMG_20200711_215216963.jpg IMG_20200711_215211588.jpg IMG_20200711_215206030.jpg
     
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  8. Boatmeister

    Boatmeister Active Member

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    Here is another cruiser I am working on. This is a 39 year old hull that belonged to Brian Spykowski (sp). What I did was locate the keep and measured out 1/8 more than half the width of the pump. I then duplicated this towards the stern and towards the bow and used a flexible straight edge to strick a line. Since this hull is so old I went with 3/8 square stock for the channel for added strength. I then cut out the bottom using a cutting wheel and seated the square stock in the groove and tacked it in with CA glue. I then did the opposite side. I had to fiberglass the bottom of the boat as in the old days even the bottom of the ships had to be penetrable and I needed the strength. Once I got the bottom fiberglassed I then ground down the ribs between the water channeling as far as I could, then poured resin in that channel for additional strength and to give the water a smooth surface to travel to the pump
     

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    Last edited: Jul 11, 2020
  9. Boatmeister

    Boatmeister Active Member

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    You will notice the grey stuff on either side of the channel. That is self leveling concrete (silicone filler). I forgot how much it weighed and will be pulling that out and adding some insulation foam to those voids between the ribs, then come back with the self leveling concrete to give me a nice smooth transition to the channel.
     
  10. Boatmeister

    Boatmeister Active Member

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    Usually with your pump you want it to be 2/3 the way back from your bow. This is important as with cruisers speeds, the water will be pushed to the back of the ship. A good place would be just forward of your motors in one of the last, relatively flat (if the is such a thing in cruisers) are for the water to essentially puddle there. Depending on how your ship is ballasted, most combat ships sink by the stern. This is also a function of keeping your props as deep as you can in the water as to cut down cavitation.

    If you any other questions, please let me know.
     
  11. Tankman

    Tankman Member

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    Hello everyone! After a considerable hiatus, I'm returning to my battleship Emile project and hoping to find some much-needed assistance. As you may recall, I began this ambitious project some time ago, and unfortunately, there hasn't been much progress since then. I'm attaching a picture of the current components I have, including the hull and superstructure. With unlimited time and resources at my disposal now, I'm determined to finish the battleship within the coming month. I'm seeking help in various areas, including the superstructure, electronics, cannons, sheathing, and ensuring compliance with all rules and regulations to make it battle-ready. Your support, guidance, or even suggestions would be incredibly valuable to me. Let's join forces and make this battleship Emile a reality together! Thank you for considering lending a hand.
     

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  12. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

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    Welcome back! Looks like your ship is in a good place. Not complete, but no major mistakes to undo. Have you figured out an internal layout yet? Where will the cannons, pump, batteries, motors, solenoids, etc. go? Once you know where everything goes, you can figure out how to mount it all down. As long as your mounts for one component don't interfere with the other components, it's pretty much whatever works. Plenty of examples in this forum to emulate, too. If you have no idea how to do something, just copy someone else!
     
  13. Tankman

    Tankman Member

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    Subject: Light Cruiser Update + Combat Gear Issue

    Dear Kotori87,

    First and foremost, I want to express my heartfelt gratitude for the invaluable assistance and guidance throughout the light cruiser project. The expertise and support have played a significant role in its progress, and I am sincerely thankful for your contributions.

    Now, I'd like to provide you with an update on the light cruiser and share some pictures of its current state. It is nearly finished, with only a few placement adjustments remaining. I have attached the pictures for you to get a glimpse of its impressive development. Your insights and feedback are always appreciated, so if you have any suggestions or ideas, please do let me know.

    On a separate note, I am encountering an issue with my combat gear power board. It seems to be allowing power to pass through without activating any of its intended functions. I was wondering if you or someone you know might have encountered a similar problem in the past. If you have any advice or troubleshooting tips, I would greatly appreciate your assistance in resolving this matter.

    Thank you once again for the unwavering support. I am truly grateful for your time and consideration.

    Warmest regards,
     

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  14. Tankman

    Tankman Member

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    Combat gear
     

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  15. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    Tankman,

    To confirm, power in to the board is the XT connector to the far left in your picture. You are supplying power to that port, correct?

    One of the XT60 outputs is a pump switch which should only be hot when the pump is on. The other is a passthrough that is for powering an ESC for your drive motors. That XT60 will be hot all the time if the board has power.
     
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