Zippy is a brand of batteries sold by Hobbyking. They're typically cheaper-ish than others. These are what I use: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-8000mah-3s1p-30c-lipo-pack-xt90.html
I would but with the current configuration I need the 4 LiFE bricks to get up to 12.8v. With 4 bricks, there's no room for even a single of my Zippy packs. Easier to drop all 4 bricks for 4 zippy's, even if I run drive and pump separate.
Nice. day made. I have been looking for a battery to throw on my pumps. Now I just have to find something similar in 6V
I guess that's the advantages of being a much more skilled Builder and using a fiberglass hull I guess. My inexperience has led to me being right up against max weight and its real tight in there physical space wise. The 4 guns worth of check valves, accumulators, solenoids take up most of the bow. Bottle and batteries fill amidships. And her stern is real narrow so no room back there. I'll make it work with just the four Zippys. If I can somehow make some room I'll try four bricks and one Zippy.
FG hulls have better utilization, but heavier . I suspect you have too thick (deep) ribs. Easy to fix with a high speed bur, grind it out till it is almost not there on the bottom. Keep sides equal to the depth, ribs share the load. Do all the removal after you clad it in thin ply. It is amazing how strong a wood hull is in relation to what it weighs.
Right now with 4x zippy packs I'm sitting at 37.9lb in full fighting trim. The LiFE bricks are a few ounces heavier per. I blame the polyurethane sealer I used for water channel. I knew I shouldn't have let my baby eat so much at such a young age. Now we're here. I will make it work. Heck I can run 5 Zippy's and be good probably, it'll take sea trials and battling to figure out what the boat needs. Actual build update coming later today hopefully...preparing for sheeting!
Sheeted starboard side today. Plan is port side tomorrow. Goal is sea trials Friday AM. Traditional weldwood contact cement used to attach sheeting to hull. I tried a Tyng method and used 50/50 Titebond III Ultimate mixed with water painted through the silkspan onto the balsa for the tissue layer touching the hull. It came out extremely well, spring battles will determine it's actual viability for future use. Already came up with an improvement for next time, the impenetrable patch area I added to the boat for the raised center section is going to be extended downward to be even with the bottom of the subdeck and will be recessed into the ribs so it sits flush. Good thing I'll have to resheet before NATs, will use that opportunity to fine tune that kind of stuff.
This was easily one of the most redneck things I've ever done. Well, there was that one time I pulled an engine out using a pulley attached to an overhead tree. Then there was the other time I broke an engine down in the back of this same truck. But this is up there, easily, top 10. It floats, it leaks, it lists pretty hard to starboard for some reason. Final weight came out to 38lb, leaving 3~lb for trim. Tomorrow I'm going to fill the hull and inspect for leaks, fix said leaks, and try again for leveling her out and marking floating waterline.
My goal is to provide an actual pic tomorrow of it floating in the filled truck pool. (Trool? Puck? Pooluck? Truckool?) The list+leaking was making her founder quite quickly and I lost track of time setting this all up and needed to get to work. Fix the leaks, trim out the list, hopefully report back tomorrow with floating pics and waterline.
Sometimes I really can't tell when you're screwing with me. The boat was the one listing. The truck didn't even notice the water.
My boats always seem to have a few leaks after fresh balsa. What’s the technique to fixing said leaks?
I don't know about the others, but I will fill the boat with water and then observe the outside of the hull. Find the leaks, make a mark there to remind you of the leak. Dump it out. Then I'll either paper+lacquer it if it's on the sheeting or if its around the perimeter of the sheeting/someplace impenetrable I'll fill it with CA, E6000, hopes and dreams, my expectations, pretty much anything.
Dump it out? you mean "Good way to test the pump"? I took the earlier battery discussion and managed to get a system set up for Texas. There are some pretty cool saddle batteries that may do the trick for you on HobbyKing btw.
I just ordered 4 more of my 11.1v 8000mah zippy packs. Going to run 4 in the boat, either as 4x parallel "one main bus" type or some division between drive and pump. Math says with everything in the boat running full tilt, 4 of these batteries will last about 30 minutes. If I want to get really stupid, I can tape them together in duos for 8x 11.1v 8000mah for literally "All the watt hours" but hopefully that won't be necessary.
I factored 40 amps per pump, so yes. I haven't load-tested them to see what they pull, but if it's really crazy high amps per pump the wiring will cause a nice fire and I hear LiPO batteries discharge better when they're warm. Edit: Sorry, math says about 26~ minutes so I rounded up to half hour.
