As I finish up the bilge pump for my upcoming project I figured I would share some of my progress and testing. For whatever weird reason I really enjoy putting the pump together and getting it wired up. I also really like how there are so many little things you can do to modify or customize the pump itself to fit your boat's needs or to get a little more performance out of it. Based on some experience, but more on reading this forum and listening to the veterans at battles I would like to share what I've put together. Major components: -Traditional BC large pump -RS-550s 18v brushed motor -Turnigy 30A brushed ESC -12v power source -Flysky FS-i6X Tx Pump Modification: Starting with the resin cast large BC pump housing I bored out the pump outlet to make room for 3/8" copper tubing and a 3/8" 90 degree elbow. The copper tubing was soldered together and at the end of it is the standard BC 1 unit restrictor. This is the part that will protrude from the deck (premeasured for height to deck and any intruding superstructure). The reason for the immediate 90 turn to the vertical was to hopefully reduce priming issues (having air stuck in a horizontal plumbing component). The next modification was to move the priming hole from the side to the top of the housing. Again, this is to help with priming. This modification along with some of the other items in this write up are thanks to the www.portpolarbear.com article: "How to build an awesome pump". To complete the move the hole in the original priming hole and set screw access nut was soldered over. The nut is still removable of course to access the set screw in the impeller. However, now that the priming hole was moved, a small high pressure stream of water leaves the housing at a 45 degree angle or so. I didn't really want water spraying all over the inside of the boat if it could be helped so I designed and 3D printed a diffuser that attaches to the exterior of the pump housing: Testing has shown that this works well and a small fan of water sprays downward right next to the pump to be "re-sucked". As far as other modifications go you can see from the above picture I added an aluminum heat diffuser to help with heat dissipation. This will be probably be unnecessary but in preliminary testing with the standard Johnson motor that comes with the pump it got very hot. I'm not so sure it would of been able to run at 12v for an extended period of time so I switched to the RS-550S 18v. The motor also has screen attached around the large opening to prevent debris from entering the pump during a sink and causing subsequent problems. I also plan on having the extra tubing attached to the end of the outlet that will be above the deck. Weather this actually improves output performance I don't know but it does keep the stream height to a minimum and angles it slightly overboard. Pump Construction: When assembling the pump I used RTV silicone to seal all the gaps. This included placing some around the motor and in the screw holes when attaching the motor to the upper housing. I then tested the motor to make sure I didn't over do it and get any silicone in any moving parts. I should have taken a picture during this process but I didn't. Again, portpolarbear has a great article on this process. Then the bottom housing and outlet tube got some silicone before being mated to the upper housing. Its good to test motor and impeller rotation after each of these steps to make sure everything spins freely. The last item was to add the pump screen. This is so important! Lack of a screen is asking for pump failure and its a matter of when not if. Even if you operate in a really clean pond its your own balsa that's been shot into your hull that will be your demise if a proper screen isn't in place. Not to mention bbs! One inherent problem with just placing a small piece of screen over the pump inlet: enough debris build up and your inlet size has drastically reduced! You need to expand the protected area so that even with debris pulled against the screen there is still room for the water to be ingested. I found a hollowed out rectangle fish filter at a pet store that does this. I cut a 1/4" slice of it and added another screen to the hole. Now water can come in from all sides and still be filtered. My testing has shown that this particular filter does not impede the pump's ability to ingest water. Pump Operation and Test Data: One thing I read was that high RPM pumps can have a lot of trouble priming. Knowing that my FS-i6X had rotary knobs I did some testing to see if I could plug an ESC into the appropriate channel and use the rotary knob to control the speed. This was successful and as a result I can ramp up the speed of the pump to minimize priming issues. The ESC is a simple one-direction 30A ESC ($12) that can handle 12v. Before and after (added XT-60s and E6000 coating): First test: -Full throttle yielded 2.5GPM at 5amps -Mid-throttle was less efficient and drew 13amps -No priming issues if the water is there and the pump is turned on. Second test: -If the pump is running dry and water is introduced it has a very difficult time priming at full throttle. Throttle had to be reduced close to zero then re-applied after about 3 seconds and full pump stream was obtained. -I determined where the highest amp draw was on the knob and marked it red. This is my "keep-out zone". Just under the red was about 1.0GPM and 2.5amps so that will be my "I'm not hurting yet but need to keep the water out" zone. Well that's about all I have for now. Critique is always appreciated and if anyone wants to share additional info to help make a more reliable or better performing pump that is always welcome! As a final note I personally believe there is such thing as too much performance. I don't want to patch that many holes and watching my boat sink after a hard fought battle is still entertaining!