German Torpedoboat V105/108 - German torpedoboat, a hard build in 1/144 Read more about this resource...
It can be done. Probably not as a first or second build. I built a B-110 back in the 90's that worked pretty well but was severely limited due to technology at the time. I'm sure today with all the micro electronics it could done a lot easier. My B-110 didn't have room for a tank and the two torpedo guns had to be recharged back in the harbor after each attack run. Make sure your deck/hull is water tight! as well as all your superstructure. I didn't have a bilge pump as there was no room so any hit would have sent it to the bottom. If your club's rules allow for the extra 3/8" hull depth on smaller ships do it. I even striped down my servos to their bare bones as every gram/ounce is critical. Good luck and take lots of pictures!!
I'm considering starting one of these soon.... I say starting because it takes me forever to do anything... still working on Emile Bertin after 4 years, (60-70%complete) and Uritski (about 85% complete) has been about 2 years now.
Well if you do consider building one of these "dinky" boats let me suggest the following lessons learned: Start off by increasing the hull depth by the allowable 3/8" of an inch, use the highest quality of 1/8" aircraft grade plywood for ribs and put in as many ribs as you are allowed to by your rules. WEIGHT! WEIGHT! WEIGHT! Go as tiny and as light as you can for every component. There is absolutely no room for fluff. You want your ribs to be as narrow as you can make them. If you can go 1/8" x 1/8" great, but no more than 1/8"wide x 1/4" deep and keep your Dremel ready to give you more interior room. Don't skin your boat until after you have where and how all the hardware is located inside the hull. There is no room for fingers to work inside these things once the hull skin is on. Once all the mechanics and essentials are located/installed/tested....then skin the hull. Build LIGHT and as SIMPLE as you can....less is more. Your deck MUST BE WATER TIGHT!! Your super structures MUST BE WATER TIGHT!! If you ship is not WATER TIGHT....you'll find out when you cross the first wave/wake or in your first turn. A bilge pump is your last concern as you probably won't have room for one....but do have a working float/recovery device. And make sure IT WORKS or you have some good scuba equipment....seriously! Reloadable guns/torpedoes are probably not possible: too big and too heavy. Forward and rear shooting guns are better than side shooting guns. Side shooters tend to roll over small boats like these when they go off....BIG TIME! Forward and rear shooters are rock steady and deadly. Ballast as LOOOOOOW as you can. Big Gun Rules allowed keel ballasting with lead outside and below the keel of the ship. If you need to ballast....go looooow. Heavy weight components need to be as low as possible. If you do get hit....get to shallow water as quickly as possible, shore if possible. One BB and these little guys sink stupidly fast. Have fun, think outside the box and.........have fun.
Something important to note is that these plans already have 3/8" of added depth to the hull. Lightweighting everything above the waterline to conserve mass that can be reallocated to ballast is key. My prototype model is sitting somewhere on the bottom of a pond in Fredericksburg,VA....
Good to see you back Webwookie!!!!!! Considering getting back into the swing of the hobby? I hope so, would be great to see more of you.
Back in the 90's we had a fantastic builder in the club that built one of these in 1/72. It was a gorgeous ship and operated very well. Even in the larger scale it was a very difficult build to get everything in it. He even had the bow rudder working. For health reasons he had to leave the club and last we saw this ship it sold on E-Bay for A LOT $$$! Don't recall how much, but it was triple what we normally get for our ships. I will try to find an old photo of it and post.
