Its 70 feet in reality, same as Fred's Boston, only shorter. Yea, they look great with the struts on, they are in a great position.
Looks great Rob, thanks a ton. I'd like to thank you for turning my hull-with-a-lot-of-wholes-in-it to a ship- with-the-ability-to-move. Pics of the rudder post too to come soon, but not too soon : )
Hey, what about a small piece of PVC, the same i used for my ship-holder thingy, as my motor mount. It will be protected, with armor in the way of flying bbs, is water proof, easy to shape and easy to drill. Also, work on the SS should begin soon.
I think I like how Mike M did his mount for that gearbox the best. He used a wood block that fit between the shafts, and mounted under the motor, so that the motor fit snugly into a recessed area of the block of wood, and then drilled holes thru the sides of it for tiewraps. Then he just tie wrapped the motor to the mount with 2 tiewraps. His worked great, was easy to get out when needed. Just make it as tall as needed so that the gearbox lower corners touch the hull, that way the circular torque will not be able to turn the gearbox over. Which by the way would not be good. Looks like you are doing a great job. Will it be ready for your guys meet in May? Some of us from down south plan on coming, we have already told the guys out west we will be missing their battle, since Rick, Don, and I plan on making yours this year. Hopefully with my ID. Also I think the Germans painted there ships Grey, not Blue. JK, the Nelson hull I got from Ralph was a real dark blue.
It will be that way, except with really thin (like 1") PVC tubing, with holes for zip-ties. And yea, it will be mounted snugly (epoxy will mount the 'mount', and 2 zip ties will mount the motor). Thanks, but no, it wont be ready by then, my goal is for NATS in Rhode Island this year, but my more realistic goal is for Rob's fall battles. Please do a build thread on the ID, i love those ships and would love to see your progress. Ya know, it is a really weird blue-green, and i might just leave it that way... jk, but i do have a neat paint scheme in mind: red on the bottom, black waterline, and gray above as a background; with several arrow shaped (black on red on black) stripes, with the center of that arrow being about 3/4" from the top of the hull. It'll look good, but that's a way off.
Yes I will do a build thead on it. I have come up with a really great way to do the wiring using a new Deans connector that I found on Tower hobbies, and quite cheap too. I told Don and Rick about it, and last Saturday we installed them on Rick's new Scharny, just so nice looking. I will take a picture of them tomorrow, I finally got a new battery for my camera.
One of THESE maybe? Details please. I'm anticipating deliver of my VDT from BC on Monday and will soon need to make some wiring decisions.
Thats right, your doing a VDT. Well, let me tell you, youve got a long road ahead of you before wiring becomes an issue.
so far so good get it on the water . 9 mounths for me and still getting my butt kicked but thay are 11 year vets . thay say um getting better . i hope to win a battel this year. but if not not so what i love it so its all good
News.....To be ordered soon : from Nat'l Balsa: 2 pieces of 1/8" 3 ply plywood to make a deck and various other applications along with 10 pieces of 1/32nd balsa (as there is a $25 minimum order) from BC: 2 quad torpedoes, 1 box of silkspan, 8 by 5.9" single guns, and 3 4.1" dual AA guns. Total of about $85 Also, styrofoam for SS will be bought soon and work will begin soon on that. Short term projects, install subdeck, deck, make motor mount, make superstructure.
Also, a 5 channel Spektrum radio. Next on the list is the SS, then the Subdeck and deck and the motor mount. Hey Rob, after that?
The rudder post is already in, and i have the servo. so i just need to pick the gears, install them, and find a way to make sure that the rudder doesnt fall out the bottom of my boat.
Boomer, you said " May I suggest you use GOOP, either Plumbers or Marine, instead of epoxy. The GOOP is flexible and will provide shock absorbtion, which makes motor mounts last longer and they run quieter as well. The GOOP holds VERY well but can be easily removed if necessary. J
Fred, Im just thinking gear ratio for turning, i already have the post in. Thanks Jay, ill look into it.
Use whatever gears let you turn the rudders 90 degrees in both directions. If they can turn them that far you can always adjust the endpoints on the radio to get them to turn where you want them to for the performance you want.
