Discussion in 'Digital Design and Fabrication' started by SteveT44, Jul 19, 2017.
I've never quite understood the current trend of making oneself look stupid for the YouTube thumbnail. I guess if that's what they like that's what they'll do, but I find it kind of repulsive.
Good video though. I think my favorite is the Creality CR-10.
have heard a lot of nice things about the CR10.
Am going a different route though and building a self-sourced coreXY for my new printer.
Can it print Nylon?
According to the specs, the max temp on the hot end is 270C, so you could print nylon. If you really want to print nylon though I'd recommend replacing the hotend with an E3d v6. Its all metal design allows for temps of even 300C (others have plastic parts that start to melt above 260C).
I put a v6 on my printer and I'd say it's the best single upgrade I've made.
Cost of the V6 head?
$61 from E3d. Not including shipping.
EDIT: comes out to about $72 with shipping and VAT.
Filastruder is the US distributor of e3d products. Depending on the exchange rates at any given moment, and any fees you may incur from an overseas purchase, it may or may not be cheaper. But certainly faster delivery.
I checked that, it's actually cheaper to order from the UK. I got mine off of E3d and I can't remember how long it took to get here, but I don't recollect it being overly long. Definitely not nearly as slow as Amazon has gotten lately.
I wouldn't be surprised if the stock hotend on the cr10 has ptfe or peek down to the heatbreak. I would be really wary of pushing it to good nylon temperatures. Definitely good to get a full v6 on it to avoid the risks of ptfe tube degradation and offgassing at extended high temps.
Phosgene? gee I did not want to die.
Get a v6 then and you will live long and prosper.
honestly, there are a few things about the design of the cr10 im not wild about, but this is a 500$ printer and not a 1000$ + one...
I'd like for instance for the bed to run on a wider base track (the Max version actually addresses this), and the lack of angle bracing to support that tall Z axis makes me twitchy (though I think it'd need some redesign to get angle bracing in, even on the backside.)
Personally I'm not a big fan of the prusa style design with the bed moving along the Y axis in larger size printers.
Heating that 12x12 bed for ABS build temps is going to take a long time on 12v unless they're pulling a lot of amps - a nice upgrade would be to put a mains powered heater on the bottom and drive it via an SSR
the cable management seems half baked, every picture seems to show the lines just sort of dangling behind the carriage where they can get caught by a print on the bed. A good user upgrade would be to spend some time installing a drag chain
Acording to the video below, the bed is powered by an external MOSFET.
That's primarily to avoid melting down your control board (or burning down your house via that failure mode). Mains power would still get you the same or more heat for fewer amps.
I will say I just noticed that the specs say it runs 24vdc which is nice. A surprising point in its favor.
But still lots of people saying its difficult to get the bed to abs ranges
Wouldn't be that difficult to splice in an DC/AC SSR and AC heat bed I would think. An enclosure would be warranted also.
It would be relatively easy.
Enclosing it would just require a larger box due to the bed on the y axis (one of the reasons i dislike the prusa model for larger beds)
Since most 3d printer owners seem hard pressed to fabricate anything outside what their printer can print. I find some of the enclosure solutions quite interesting.
some people dont believe in letting form get in the way of function.
here's a horror show for you Steve