all cannons work except the 2 dual cannons in the stern ill show u set up and for some reason i felt as though it was going to happen.
Plumb the duals like a triple minus a gun. You will need a mav 3 for it if you don't have it. A picture of it will help.
i got them working. i had the 1/8 hose hooked up to the mav2's with the actuator on them thinking it would work but i was rong, so i hooked them directly up to the regulator and boom there it was. pictures coming soon i just need an extra x fitting and maybe about 2ft of 1/8 hose to be on the safe side. ill keep everyone posted. Oh and how do you know if the cannons are shooting fast enough? i feel as though they will barley penetrate balsa sheet but im not sure. it banged up an alluminum can pretty good from 6-12 inches away but didnt go through. so im not sure i thought it would atleast go through it. any input?
i did that all except for the cannon barrels. because the seal is hard to get on there nicely. but ill put that on then.
I have to thank Curt for most of the help with my project. He just told me how to tweak my cannons now im happier than a kid on christmas day and i cant wait to shoot up my old ship models haha. and I thank you all for helping me out all this way it means alot knowing that somone is there to help you when you need it, and i hope to return the favor some day thank you ALL again. the bismarck i am hoping to get FULLY finished this weekend. all i need to do is wire up all the servos fix my lights, find that pesky leak in the hull which i think is comiming from the rudders or the coming out from the inside of the stuffing tube which i think its not due to how much lube i got in it. oh one last thing thank probably anyone could answer this for me i have a small opening in my cannon where they did not full soder around it. and it is shotting out a good amout of co2 when i fire. how can i fix this (im not good at sodering). sorry for poor quality, it was on cell fone.
Soldering is not hard, but it requires a series of steps. The basic rules of soldering are . . . 1. Use a good soldering iron with an appropriate sized tip for the job. 2. Use the right temps 600 – 750*F and never hold heat to your components longer than 6 seconds. 3. Use clean quality solder, preferably lead solder, 60/40 lead solder is most common (63/37 is best if you can get it) 4. Use flux, rosin based RMA (rosin medium activated) is best (the amount of flux in flux cored solder is not enough) 5. Pre-tin components (coat with a thin layer of solder) before soldering them together. 6. Use the right amount of solder, do not glob it on, more is not better, use just enough. 7. Keep your iron tip clean by wiping it off regularly with a damp sponge or rag 8. In between making connections and immediately after turning off the soldering iron, coat the tip with solder to protect it, and don't leave the iron turned on and unused for more than a few minutes 9. Clean up the solder joint with isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol to remove used flux when done 10. Use heat-shrink tubing whenever you can For those of us that have done a lot of soldering, the key to soldering is keeping your surfaces clean ! ! ![script removed]
haha thank you, i soldered before i just had a hell of a time keeping the peaces to stay. there would be times i solder perfectly at one end, then let it dry then solder the opposite ind perfectly only to watch the last solder i made come undone, my cranes were like that haha.
I am sorry, I was not aware of the level of soldering that you have done in the past. For this type of joint, I think that the problem will be getting everything evenly heated. It may be something that you would want to run a torch on vice an iron or gun.
dont be sorry. i just wanted to let you know that ive done before but im just afraid to mess up my cannon due to my past history haha.
Two things: one0 Put wet paper towels on parts that you don't want to come apart while soldering elsewhere on assembly. two) strength of shot: should go through both sides of an empty coke can.
Thank you for the advice, i soldered it a little bit ago hopefully it holds. and yes i tweaked them i cant believe how strong they actually are haha my air-soft gun shoots 400fps this one has to be going at least that fast. thank you for all your help
Well i have ordered 4ft of 1/8 hose and an X fitting for the most stern guns (dual) i am now putting on all the detail, and wow i think it looks better with the real cannons vs the fake ones i had. pictures coming soon (hopefully). Doing details as i said earlier, to the cannons, and superstructure. (paint, and the very fine details nothing major) I also made the cannons so i can rotate them anyway so they are not fixed in, Pictures of that will be coming soon. (looking for new ways to do that with my dual 50rd straight cannons and my bow 50rd straight cannon.) Keep posted
Here are some pictures of what i got goin on, still need to paint fine details. any questions feel free to ask i will gladly answer. (my coiled turret set up) Radio Room also fire control co2 setup and battery arangment. (still figuring out weight distribution) And here is everything
One thing you may want to consider is taking the ESC out of the box as it can generate quiet a bit of heat. I have several of the same ESC, they are waterproof and I put all of mine in the water channeling to help keep them cool. The boat looks awesome and there is always room for another Axis Captain. J
which would be great to battle her but i cant as she is a show boat and i didn't wanna cut into the hull. now i will be most likely ordering the lotzow for my battler. and thank you for the advice i will do that now.
Very good call with the ESC, it will heat the air in the box, causing it to expand. This isn't bad in itself, as excess pressure will find a way out, but if you get sunk the air cools rapidly, and combined with the outside water pressure, you'll get water ingress, or at worst, the box may implode. Not good.
