Decks and subdecks typically fit inside the hull flush with the top of the hull edge. There are many different ways to put them in. I kinda suggest checking out some of the build threads to see some ideas. Maybe someone that has done decks in fiberglass hulls can post some pictures too.
My friends as of late have been recommending marine "goop" to attach the decks to the fiberglass. I hear it works great and will be used the next time I attach decks...
Give E-6000 glue a try when putting decks into fiberglass. It is available in any craft store and in some Walmart's craft sections. It really is amazing stuff. Sticks like no tomorrow. Heh.
haha ive been using that stuff on my other models before i decided to take this project on it really holds, but it can be rubbery though
The same glue but a different formulation. E-6000 is thinner viscosity than GOOP. E-6000 can be found in smaller tubes with a smaller tip that I find convenient in model making. For bigger models, you can get it in the 10oz cartridges... E-6000 is also good for waterproofing electronics since it flows to level.
Curt i found the little tubes at wal-mart (idk if canada has wal-marts) but i see that stuff in crafting stores as well. and to be honest those tubes get alot out of them, you dont need much for it to really hold i put together 6 blue devil destroyers on one little tube. and it acts like a rubber and its easy to sand down and i found out it works better on wood then metal. anyway becareful with this glue it acts as a paint thinner so i sugest gluing on unpainted surfaces.
I glue all the details and armor on the deck with it. They tend to hang around a bit longer with the goop.
Having some over lap, im just wondering if this is normal before i cut? And is E-6000 good to use for this deck? and im going to be reinforcing with hot glue as well
Don't use hot glue. It isn't much good for immersion, and is too weak. I don't know what E-6000 is, but I use epoxy for my caprails.
There is more material in the sub-deck than I would have expected. At the stern, is the sub-deck sanded to shape and is it flush with the top of the hull? I'm looking at the second picture in the series. Has the sub-deck been beveled via sanding? That second picture shows the transision in the hull from being almost vertial to having a significant angle. I cannot tell from the picture if the sub-deck has been sanded. Idealy, the top of the sub-deck should be flush with the top edge of the fiberglass hull and that requires the part underneath be sanded down to conform. When installing the sub-deck (after everything is sanded to shape), I'll use either clamps (similar to what you have in the pictures) or a series of straps to secure the sub-deck in place. I'll then use spots of CA to tack the deck in. I'll then put masking tape in spots along the top of the sub-deck and hull before puting spots of epoxy along the back side of the joint between the hull and sub-deck. Turn it upside down and let the dabs of epoxy flow into the joint and let it cure (the epoxy will not stick to the glue of the masking tape for Scotch brand tape). After both sides are done, the clamps and straps can usually be pulled off, run a big long stretch of masking tape along the whole joint, and thoroughly epoxy each side up from the back so that the epoxy can run into the joint. I did this with a test hull I picked up while searching for a good fiberglass shop. This hull had bulged out over an inch out on both sides from where it should have been. It seems to be working fairly well, though I do not have it in the water yet. I've been using West System's G/Flex for my epoxy, as it is capable of a little more abuse than the normal epoxy they put out. It does look like the sub-deck might need to be shortened a little bit. Let me know about the fit in the aft and the conforming bevel done in the bow section. Stephen Morgret Strike Models
Yup, looks like the subdeck will require some sanded bevel edges to fit, especially the bow and stern areas. It is normal to have to bevel sand the edges.
Typical of sub deck installation. Mark the sections that need to be beveled and sand down , test fit again. You will do this several times till you get the fit just right. Don't bevel too much at a time. This part of the construction will require patience but the end result is a good fit. Any little gaps can be filled in with bondo putty and resin, or just epoxy resin.
