the deck has not been sanded and i will be workin on it today as for the stern the is a little bulge of fiber glass i will dremel down to have a flush fit in the stern which will give me an extra 1mm of deck i dont need to sand. i will keep you all updated going tou and buying opoxy and glue and i might have it on its first test run later today depending how well the deck goes.
Not a fan of fuses. I would be inclined to pay attention to the specs of what I install and skip the fuse. If you aren't worried about a competitive propulsion system then do geared smaller motors and a big amperage esc. Fuses have a way of popping for random reasons, IMO. Das Bütts
so just by pass the fuse and run it straight, remember im just using as showboat, i do want the most speed and power out of my system
SHowboat or warship, it doesn't matter. You fuse to protect your ESC and other components. Stalling out a 550 motor can draw 60+ amps which could in theory melt your wiring and burn out your ESC if it isn't up to handling that much.
Rc setup, just a test, all will be put in radio box when finished just testing works good ecept for a few things need adjusting
you will never experience anything like your about to experience here today....How do you like this rigged fuse holder haha, it worked well for my testing. I still have a few minor things, everything works great except for when i turn off controler when throttle is off it will go almost full blast i have no idea why and it wont turn off till i kill the power in the ship any ideas? oh and i also still had my bind key in if that means anything which it shouldnt.
You should always turn off power to the ESC/RX before the transmitter. Behavior on loss of signal is up to the receiver and ESC
so just wondering what if i accidently hit power key on transmitter, it automaticly throws it in revers almost full blast, to be honest if this was an rc helicopter or plane it should not do that it could cause ingery to the pilot and the aircraft, thats why i think i might be mising somthing.
Keep your fingers off the power switch? Put tape over it? Turn it back on quickly? It looks like your receiver is a Spektrum AR6210. I read the manual for it - you should too. It covers setting up the failsafe positions for the throttle.
Yup, always power on the transmitter first before the ship/plane/car and power off the transmitter last after the ship/plane/car. Frankly, there is a bigger chance of inadvertantly leaving the throttle in forward or reverse when turning on the power system. A very good habit (one learned from decades of flying planes and helicopters) is to always check the throttle stick position before turning anything on or starting any motor. It will save lots of headaches (not to mention medical aches from getting wacked by props and blades).
haha yeas i talked to the hobby shop guy he told me about it and when i fly my helicopters there is a safty where the helicopter wont work unless ur throttle is all the way down anyway so i put together everything and i couldnt beleive it but my one prop blade flew off the prop and landed about 20ft away
Electric Helis have an arming function built into their ESCs. Nitro helis do not have a safety function.
thank you had a test run an wow goes pretty nicly and turns great but i had to move the port side and midship motor mounts forward because the dog bones came out. another minor prob is the loudness it seems loud but that might be normal. oh and can my receiver pick up the transmitter through the tubaware container?
