HK-7X 2.4Ghz 7ch w/ 5 Model Memory TX & RX V2 (Mode 1)

Dear Nikki,
I, personally, would not stick both the wires out the top of the bow - too easily damaged by shot (and do Scotchkote the exposed silver ends to seal them wherever you locate them).
I am not sure why you are putting it in the extreme bow, when most of what it is going to operate is probably in the stern. The longer the servo wire runs, the more chance of glitching.
Mounting the antennae above deck is fine, but I would put them inside a hollow mast (not metal. not carbon fiber) or some such or in a more protected place. By the way, the little silver bit of around an inch long at the end is the antenna - the rest is shielded coax and does not send out the signal.
There is no problem mounting them to along the caprails just under the deck, but they are, in theory, supposed to be at 90 degree angles (not as critical in our application.
The RX does not appear to be protected by blast shielding - those FASST RXs are a bit expensive to leave unprotected.
Just some quick impressions. Knowing a better place depends on the rest of your layout, access points, etc. On my Titanic, the factory put it just in front of the rudder on a tray just below the deck and an access hatch. RX, rudder servo, and ESC all mounted on one triangularish/trapezoidalish wooden shelf above the prop shafts.
Cheers,

 

I did post a link for extended antennae leads, which allow the rx to be mounted "normally" belowdecks.
I use them in my HMS Rodney with NO problems.

 

hey Darren,
Can you post the Link, I was looking for it with just the number and wasn't finding anything.
Thanks,
Nikki

 

Dear Nikki,
I looked on ebay with that number and found it by that number:
www.ebay.com/itm/360661201796
It is now sold, so you might want to search by the description.
You might also want to check with Wayne at www.alofthobbies.com/
He carries FASST compatible receivers made by FRSky and also sells extra long antennae in various lengths - check with him to see if they are compatible with your model RX or the replacement RX you buy from him (the FRSky brand Futaba FASST compatibler RXs are usually a good bit less expensive than what Futaba charges, and I have had good luck with FRSky quality - they have built a sterling reputation for themselves, and I am anxiously awaiting their new Taranis radio).
Cheers,

 

Guys,
My question is how do you take the small Antennas out of the Rec and put the new long Antennas on the Rec.
Nikki

 

The case unclips...the aerials unplug.....TINY little plugs...

 

YA but I Don't went to brack the Case!!!
Nikki

 

Then be careful!
The case is just clipped together, it just requires some patience and a gentle touch to pop it apart.

 

Hey Guys,
What is the easy way to open it to take the old Antennas? I did buy a pair of the Futaba Extra long 2.4ghz Antennas.. I wonder how long they actully are?? And this mean i can keep my Rec. in the bottom and the Hull and Run the Antennas up both sides of the superstructure. but what do you guys thing??
Nikki

 

Dear Nikki,
With mine, it made me quite nervous, too, as the Futaba RXs are relatively expensive. One of the reasons I recommended getting a spare Futaba FASST compatible RX made by FRSky from ALOFT Hobbies (you cry a lot less over a $25 mistake than a $50-$100 mistake, and you have a spare - I would keep the original as the spare).
I just found a place in the seam/joint(like near the antennae), inserted a thin screwdriver and pushed it in, twisted, etc. until it came apart (just snaps together on my version - some RX casess havs tiny screws in the corners, but I don't recall that on my Futaba). A watch case back remover also works nicely (thin enough at the edge, rounded, not too sharp as to be terribly dangerous). The tool I like is a lot like this one:www.amazon.com/Ostart-Opener-Blade-...ref=sr_1_7 though this one lookes interesting for some situations www.amazon.com/Jewelers-Watch-Case-...ref=sr_1_1
If you want to use a regular knife you must be very careful, as it is easy to slip and cut yourself wan it snaps open - quite dangerous and not recommended.
Remember, the case only protects the radio - it does actually do anything else to make the radio function, so if you break it you can glue or tape or shrinkwrap it back together. In fact, I have heard some flyers with very tight weight issues actually remove the case and leave the radio bare.
Please note also that some RX cases ARE glued together, but will still need to be opened then taped or glued back together, but I don't recall my Futaba being glued, just a tight snap-fit.
Also, you need to take the case off to Scotchkote the board(s) inside - just coating the outside of the case does nothing for you.
As for mounting, I, personally, would still try to mount it to the underside of the deck or under a crossbeam, not on the bottom. No reason to sbject it and the servo leads to water unnecessarily. And the bottom of the ship will probably be wet most of the time.
Cheers,

 

thanks Wreno,
that was s big help.. I was thing about mounting the rec. under my front deck.
Nikki

 

You are welcome. Any particular reason you want it under the front deck? Seems like an awfully long run for servo and power wires (the longer the run, the more chance of interference and other issues). Why not near/below the superstructure (unless that is your float). Most of mine are nearer the stern, by the way. Of course your mileage may vary, differing ships, differing needs.
Cheers,

 

The Wires are 20inches long, And its only the rudder Wire I'm worried about!!!

 

Derar Nikki,
20" is not a terribly long run, but you are running it past the motors, etc. which can induce a lot of interference in a run that long. I have seen others shield the cable, twist the cable, or use a ferrite core to reduce interference in wires as short as 12" depending on where they are run.
You say rudder only - no ESC for the motor(s)? No pump (automatic or operated by radio or full time?)
Just thinking. Without the ship design in front of me, a little hard to advise except general principles. On my Titanic, I think the maximum cable run from the TX is on the order of 3-6" On the Dunkerque, I believe several are longer, but most are pretty short (depression and rudder only) as it is mounted under the forward part of the supersructure on a shelf.
Cheers,

 

Guys I'll post photo of the layout for her ok. but the plan is pump and Rudder in the stern of the boat and speed control and rev on the bow.
Nikki

 

here are the photos http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss192/NASAAN101/100_1341_zps99f6e76d.jpg sturn view, http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss192/NASAAN101/100_1342_zps1bbec42d.jpg Motors,
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss192/NASAAN101/100_1343_zps51d4856c.jpg Middle bow,
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss192/NASAAN101/100_1344_zps5246699e.jpg bow. let me lnow what you thing ok!!!
Nikki

 

Dear Nikki,

Unless I am missing something, it looks like you have a ton of room in the stern to mount a wooden or plastic tray to hold the servo at the proper height, mount the RX on the tray, and mount the ESC in the bilges between the prop shafts or stuffing tubes, along with the pump either between the stuffing tubes or in front of the motor. Then the only long wire runs would be from the battery to the ESC. By the way, the more weight you add to the extreme bow, the more you diminish your turning ability (though the receiver and ESC should not be that big a deal).

Cheers,

 

Wreno,
The extreme bow has a float housing in it!!! the pump was going to go into the sturn, and I was going to mouth the gun in the bow, as she 46sec, I wouldn't ram people, and a was to piss off other boats
Nikki

 

Sounds like more reasons to mount it in the stern the way I suggested. Plenty of room for pump and all back there, and really short wiring.
Cheers,

 

ya but Mount the gun in the bow would let me set in the trees with out being seen and Shot people
Nikki