I don't see any issue so long as the width at any given point is correct. By the way the rules are written I would agree with Beaver's read. Does it matter though? Probably only if someone raises a stink and convinces a CD that it does.
Done installing a network in Chicago so back in the Maryland workshop... The frames where the aluminum stringer backers end get additional support. In the aft section, cutting the windows out allowed the subdeck to droop inward a bit. The new support in this area will strengthen the stinger backer and put the deck back where it should be. The clamped wood piece is keeping the deck in alignment while the glue sets.
Had the day off so got some Barham time in. Started laying out the super..... .... but since it was such a nice day, switched to pump upgrade! Had an idea for a laminar flow nozzle that I thought would be cool. Some bits for the new nozzle. The key item is a thick stainless steel 1/8" inside diameter washer. It gets tapered to present a knife edge to the water flow. The pump body came out of an old postage sealer machine. It was modified to work with a Swampy impeller I'd bought years ago. Bolted together with the new nozzle installed. The nozzle is going to go straight through the main deck. Testing out on the deck. I'm getting a good inch or so of laminar flow. Watering the trees 20' up. With the plain Jane motor I'm pumping 2 gallons in a 1:30. Wonder what a big outrunner would do?
Unfortunately you really want turbulent flow in the nozzle.... laminar flow in the outlet actually restricts the output. You should be doing 2 gallons in much less than 60 seconds. Also measure the voltage and amperage while the pump is running so you can figure out how many watts the pump is using. Nozzle should be a long taper (5-8 degrees) from both sides.
Thanks. More for you to enjoy. More nozzle work. This is an attempt at a long taper smooth bore nozzle. The nylon piece came off the end of a tube of construction adhesive. It's epoxied into the aluminum bit and then machined to fit into a 3/8" brass tube. Settled on a cannon layout, the infamous Death Y!
The plumber showed up last night. Luckily he has a tubing bender! On the gas distribution, I have room to put a gas reservoir where that aluminum manifold is currently. Worth the effort?
I like the elbow for the fill port. Hadn't thought of that. Beats the heck out of turning the end up.
I installed two Clippard gas reservoirs in Warspite and in Hood but there was no noticeable improvement in BB cannon firing. I think using a wide diameter hose to get the gas from the reservoirs to the guns might be more effective. When I operated the Canarias the stern guns fired independently, running off a 35gm capsule, Rock the Boat regulator and a relatively short run of 1/8" OD hose. They would fire as rapidly as I could toggle back and forth between them. When I bought the HMS Suffolk back this month I found Brechin Piper had installed a Clippard reservoir. I don't know if that improved firing. I should try some comparative test firing on the work bench. If firing is improved with larger hoses and a reservoir, vs wider hoses only, I'll reinstall the reservoir in Suffolk and fit the reservoirs that were in Hood to the Canarias and Profintern.
So I run over to HD during lunch to pickup some more elbows for the new mags I'm building and guess what? Discontinued item! They have 1/4" compression tees and unions but no elbows. It's off to my Ace Hardware in the AM. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Ch...pression-x-Compression-Elbow-LF-A14/202254825
I guess I'll forego the reservoirs then. Just that much less to fabricate. What I think I will do is get some push in connectors and use some 3/16" ID high pressure nylon tubing I have in stock. That should give some killer flow to the Kips.
More cannon work done. New 50 and 75 round mags, new mag caps, and a new Stynger core (one on the right). Thought I'd have to machine the fourth cannon from scratch but found enough bits left over from the prototyping to build a fourth cannon. I included that aluminum roofing nail because the rubber gaskets they come with work perfect in the mag caps. Here's a fun fact. Next time you need to glue a magnet on something, use JB Weld. Since it's iron filled (and thus magnetic) it forms this cool conformal coating around the magnet. Just dollop some on the top and it will flow around the magnet. For the fourth cannon I thought I'd have to use a Spartan solenoid I had available. The existing three cannons were built using Kip's and mixing solenoid types doesn't fit well with my design aesthetic. Digging around the junk bin found most of the parts of a Kip I had taken apart 15 years ago (too see how it worked). Couldn't find that top nut so I had to machine one to fit. FYI, though the Spartan is bigger, since it's plastic, its a bit lighter. Also, the coil on the Spartan is hermetically sealed so is absolutely water proof. The Kip is not so is getting waterproofed with E6000. If starting fresh, Spartan is the way to go.
I think Steve might be going with a belt and suspenders type approach. It probably doesn't hurt but I doubt it helps either. Kips(and most solenoids I've seen in and out of the hobby) are pretty much waterproof by design. The coil is fine getting wet since they are enamel coated wire, similar to the wires internal to a motor. The only thing I can think of that might have a vulnerability is where the leads are soldered to the coil, I've never heard of that causing an issue but in theory I guess it could. If you get water into the gas path that might cause issues too but proper assembly/usage would be the fix for that not waterproofing.
