If i want to turn while in reverse, i hit the throttle forward with the rudder over appropriately, then go back to rudder-neutral reverse...
Epoxied the other side of the drag prop supports (JB Weld). Started prepping balsa for skinning (no pic), finalized and installed hull systems in prep for internal armor install (per Carl's sage advice, will be getting some heavy duty pet proof screen for the armor). Liking how the box install has turned out. Off to work...
The aluminum is 3003 grade 1/16" thick. It's easy to form and to cut with woodworking equipment (carbide blades required). The glue is JB Weld. I bought a big sheet of the 3003 to make covers for one of my other endeavours (large scale super servo's). On the Barnham, the 3003 has come in handy for the motor mounts, prop supports, and heat sinks. Good stuff to have around. Tyng ZekeTec Super Servo Kit (30 foot pounds torque)
Are the bolts and nuts on he box going to be cover with something? Pretty easy for a BB to get in there and short things out. If it's + & - that's would be a smokey failure. Why don't you have gear boxes for the motors. You are losing tons of torque and will start and stop horribly.
Yes, there will be shields covering the terminal connections on the box. I'm using RS-555PH motors which are lower rpm, higher torque than RS550's. Should be OK in direct drive.
The Zika shields going in (internal armor). This pet-proof screening is sweet stuff. It's getting glued to the inner deck edge. I'm mounting it so the natural curve of the product tucks the shields up under the casements.
FYI - that type of internal armor has proven to be completely penetrable. In the MWC it was very easy to shoot through.
I haven't had a problem with the Dog Screen material at all and I have been using it for about 4 years now. Hang it loose on the bottom and it will do the job. I would have no problem putting my hand behind it and have Johnny shoot at it.
Started sheeting. Notice to rookies. Materials I'm using (the adhesives) are not considered "canon" in the fastgun segment so take what I'm posting with a grain of salt. My ship may well explode in a violent chemical reaction caused by some dissolved rare earth element at Greenbier lake (because I didn't use Weldwood). FYI, these methods were used on my Mogador and she's still in one piece. Sheeting starts with balsa prep. One side of the sheet gets a treatment of silkspan and a thinned mix of Titebond II glue (75% glue to 25% water). A sheet cut to rough shape is taped to the hull along the bottom (silkspanned side towards the hull). Notice the pencil marks along the bottom of the hull. They mark the frame locations which will come in handy a bit later. It is folded back and a bead of E6000 adhesive is run along all mating surfaces. The sheet is then pressed back onto the hull to transfer glue to the sheet. The sheet is pulled back. The glue on the hull and sheet is then spread around and leveled with the glue spreader (finger) to ensure complete and consistent coverage. Extra glue is added where required. I let the glue tack for about 5 minutes and then press the sheet back onto the hull. The bottom edge is pressed on tight and taped the full length. Now starting from the middle frames, the balsa is massaged onto the hull, working up and to the ends of the balsa sheet. Make sure your pressing where there's frames underneath (remember the marks?). No pics of this as I was busy giving the Barham a shoulder rub. Areas where the adhesive wasn't grabbing well enough get taped up until adhesive sets. Notice that I had to cut the balsa to the deck level so I could get the tape on there. In this area, the balsa was buckling a bit, hence the extra clamping requirement. I'm using three sheets on each side of the Barham. If you think ahead with your framing plan, you can place 3/8" frames where balsa meets to give you some more gluing surface. That's it for this morning. More this evening.
Mark the ribs with a "Marks a lot" before putting the glue on and the ink will transfer to the balsa! Marty
Sheeting continues... The aft end is more complex so I'm using a masking tape template to transfer the shape to the balsa. The aft has some curves to it so I wanted to pre-bend the sheet for easier application. Here I'm using the weight of wet rags to do the work. Pre-bent sheet Lots of tape for a few hours to make sure this panel stays stuck Outer silkspan is applied and trimmed. Almost ashamed to let this get all shot up. On to the other side....
