OK, I've started working on my Barham again. The water channeling is all done and now it's on to the rudder system. Lines are drawn inline with the prop shafts and placement and spacing is checked using a 2.25 sq inch rudder template. Checking to make sure there's enough space for the top gears. So I found this cool nylon gear set at my local hobby shop but how to solidly attach them to the rudder shafts? Simple, using this jig to maintain alignment, heat an 1/8" prop dog with a torch and press it into the gear! This block is used to hold the posts in perfect alignment while bonding to the hull. The posts will be cut to length after the bonding process. Before bonding, the post height is adjusted to just clear the underside of the future deck... ... and then add a little epoxy putty. Note the thick-wall 1/8" ID tubing. Not the typical hobby store stuff. I had this lying around from another project. There's not much space in the aft end of a QE. I wanted a compact one piece mount for the servo so came up with what I'm calling the Sidewinder mount. It allows you to slide the servo in from the side and easily engage all gears and keeps wood under the servo screw holes. That's it for now. Need to finish up a few bits on the rudder system and then move onto the subdeck and casements.
More progress. Forgot to show off the finished channeling earlier. Rudder mount all goo'd up with PL Premium. Rudder posts faired to the hull. Work starts on the aft subdeck and casement area. Careful cutting with a pull saw. Got to stay legal!
Thinking I might quit again? Cutting in style on my vintage art deco 1954 Craftsman bandsaw! Gooping into the hull. Exact adhesive is my all time favorite E6000.
Maybe! . If you do quit again, I will take a drive down south and plaster the Cromwell with yellow paint. (Sound familiar?)
Yeah, I remember the paint job. I've got a case of paint reserved just for you so bring plenty of rags...
Sounds like I'm in for it. Also sounds like the Quarter Pounder's splinter shield might need some reenforcement. See ya' soon!
Bilge's got a splash of paint last night. Rusting bb's will contrast quite nicely with the bright white. Had to trim the subdeck around the rudder gears. Looks like I'll have to gouge out an area for the reg (can't think of everything in advance). Next is the most challenging part of the build IMO, the front casemates!
What are you using for the fairing material? How does the durability using e6000 for this compare to attaching with fiberglass+resin?
I've been using Ace Epoxy Putty. It's cheap and the Ace store is right around the corner. Ace Epoxy Putty Stick - Pipe Putty - Ace Hardware
E6000 is a solvent based elastometric. It stays flexible so is very impact resistant. I've found it works very well in gluing wood to nonporous material. It also is good nonporous to nonporous but has to be applied like a contact adhesive (let both surfaces dry to touch then stick together). It's the same stuff as GOOP (same manufacturer) but a lower viscosity version. Also works great in water proofing electronics. I also used it to sheet my Mogador (and soon the Barham).
Yep! Sheeting with E6000 is real easy. Not so easy coming off but no harder than grinding and sanding superglue off. I'm going to experiment with a layer of wax under the E6000 to see how well that holds. If it works, some heat should make for an easy re-sheeting job.
No HMS Valiant here! Started the forward casement layout. This is going to be so freakin cool. This is a good time to make sure your batteries will slide in. Quick and dirty casements. Some bits of wood and 5/8" doweling. The reason I chose to model the Barham was for these huge slabs of impenetrability and enablers of godlike down angles in the aft quarters.
