I've used it recently for sticking things on, but not for anything structural. If your hull was full of stuff (and possibly some water), would you feel secure enough in the bond and sheer strength to pick the boat up by a crossmember? I'll stick to ye ole scotchkote for waterproofing electronics I think though. Not going to fix what isn't broken.
I used the Loctite variety of that. It liked to crack and fail anywhere that it might be subject to flexing, in particular where I had used it to build up skegs. If you develop any strange leaks in that area, check that stuff as it may be the culprit. I ground most of it out last refit and replaced it with a 'proper' fiberglass job. (At the same time I installed some absolutely massive stainless steel stuffing tubes as well, so no more flexing of those when accidents happen...)
On my builds, sure. Other's, who knows. Glue joints are more than just the glue. There's joint fitment, surface area, and prep to consider.
Any fast set epoxy will be brittle, that's the trade off for the quick cure. Some good stuff I've used in the past is PC-7 putty. Takes overnight to cure. You can even adjust ratios for more flexibility. PC Epoxy
Couldn't say as I've never used PC-11. Looking at the specs, PC-7 is the stronger of the two and slightly heaver. They both have the same water absorption (.44%) but PC-11 is slightly softer after cure. Only advantage that I can see is it can be applied underwater.
Today's pics Started fabing the front casemate subdeck sections. 1/2" ply is glued to the 1/4" subdeck to thicken the casemate area up. Trimmed to shape. Dowel sections will be glued on to round out the casemate turrets. Next step is cutting the hull in the casemate area. I'm thinking of a jig to hold my Dremel at the correct height for this precise cut, or I may just do it by hand....
Definitely do it by hand. Cutting with a Dremel is such tedious work that totally exhausts your arm and hand. And just think of all the time you'd save cutting it by hand, too. Besides, doing it by hand is sooo easy. LOL
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Any comments on possible cannon layouts I've been pondering? A: Traditional "Death Y" B: Dual long range sterns in D turret, two side mounts C: Dual short range sterns in C turret, two side mounts Side mounts would be able to swivel between sorties to keep things interesting. Sterns could be arced withing 15 degrees either side.
Keep it simple", no swivel, no range (You have never driven a BB), A or C (down angle 15 deg. off ctr in C turret) would work. Get up near and push the button as fast as you can, then move off and lick your wounds.
None of the above? Dual sterns ranged 12" or so aft in D, Haymaker (really close range) tucked into the stern casemate cutout in C, B is empty, Bow sidemount in A ranged out around 18". Use the haymaker for knife fighting, Sterns for defense or targets of opportunity. Save A to fire on prickly targets while maintaining range with superior maneuverability/speed. Trying to knife fight with a gun in B gets you a bunch of holes where they hurt the worst (not that you won't end up with some holes up there anyway, but no reason to lay out the welcome mat if you don't have to).
Steve is battling local and has to deal with tons of WW1 German BB's getting in and hugging. Yes he can use his speed to "run away" but that won't result in more hits below.
I'm kind of partial to the C layout myself. The C turret (or maybe Y?) sits up high and with a 15 degree offset with the max down angle possible should be able to get dual 50's hitting pretty close. A 75 round haymaker in the D turret should still be doable with that casement cutout. Barham builders model
Its not so much running away as punching from range. Going toe to toe with something smaller and more nimble is a good recipe for getting wet. Sometimes it's a game of patience and taking the right shots.
Maybe for a 24 sec boat, but at 26 you probably would not last long in a sortie. For me, sterns for targets of opportunity, haymaker in C to pound when given the chance, and A for picking off or scaring away as I move away.
With current environment, use two pumps. Put in dual sterns in D (running with one when using two pumps). Put a haymaker in C (make sure it has 20 degrees down angle then swing it to hit the hull. Down angle is most important). Then my favorite gun.... Bow side mount in B with 20 degrees down angle. long range A will only get you killed with axis bristling with stern side mounts. B has been my most effective gun in my Vanguard (two most feared awards), and my Bismark (also have won most feared(s)). A short range be in a maneuverable ship can get under anyone else's bow side mount and have free shots, and if down right hold its own with MANY (not all) stern side mounts. B and C have the same range about 2.5-3" if you can. That way either side you bump sides and pull the trigger. Usually a stern side mount in D cannot get the down angle. Side mounts in D and C with two pumps would also be a solid option currently. Catch ya on the flip side, Tim Beckett
My setup is C. The rear sidemout in rearmost turret to take advantage of the casement cutouts, the twin sterns in the second rearmost turret (though cannot get the 10 degrees downangle needed for consistant bellows like my Erin had), and the front sidemount in the second front turret. It is a setup I used most effectively in my Erin and one that a handful of Iron Duke drivers use. The rear casements allow the down angle in that rearmost turret. To validate that setup, the Erin took most feared with it at three separate Nats.
