Got the 3 parts stuck together. Water channeling is in place. Now the stringers and fill in the holes at the bottom!
Can someone recommend which hardware kit I should use (strike models) The 4/5 unit kit is the same price as the 6 unit kit!
Nick, I know you're in France, but are you building to (for example) IRC rules? Under that rule set (known as "Fast gun"), Hood is 6 units. so 5 guns allowed plus pump. So the Strike gun system would be BBSYST-5D ($290.00) for one twin-gun plus 3 single-gun setups for your 4 turrets. Then the fire control options are poppet valves (included w/ above) or solenoids & firing boards, etc. If you opt for the solenoids, Strike packages them with the guns under BBSYST-SOL-5D. Then you'd need three SOL-DRIVER-W-CONN firing boards to plug into your receiver and fire the solenoids. Hope this helps! (Keri, feel free to credit me the sales commission)
Thanks Irnuke, I was thinking about the hardware kit for the motors and stuffing tubes etc However, I will be needing to install guns n stuff afterwards so thanks for the ideas.
For drive hardware, this off-the-shelf would work: HDW-BB-ESC (I'd recommend using the ESC vs the micro-switch just for ease of speed control if nothing else). This also included the Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC) meaning your receiver gets it's power thru the ESC (no seperate power wire needed). Prop diameter: I'd go with as big as you can get under the hull while keeping the shafts as flat as possible. The more down-angle you put on the shafts, the bigger prop you can get on there, but the props will be trying to push the bow down rather than the ship forward. So put the shafts in as flat as you can, then measure from centerline of shaft to closest point of hull. Double that and subtract 1/16". Now get the closest prop size smaller than that number. Example: 11/16" measured: 11/16x2-1/16=1 5/16. Use 1 1/4"
Got round to doing the solid bits with balsa... and filing down the excess. Next is the sanding and the window height. I did the height slightly higher so I wouldn't have to add balsa. Finally a coat of fibreglass will be added
almost finished the blocks of balsa, I've put the base wood for the channeling, it's wider at the bach as the pump will go there and more water will be collected here. I believe that when it gets to a certain weight, the back will be heavier sending more water to the pump making it more efficient. Any ideas?
Started the superstructure... I put thicher heavyer wood at the bottom (where the hits mostly go) and lighter balsa above. There is 5mm ply between each layer so hopefully not all of the structure falls off if it get badly hit! Eventually the post sticking up will be in copper so it can act as an aerial
a lightweight fiberglass job will do wonders for damage resistance. Because my Derfflinger sits so low I 'glassed' the sides of the first level with a super light job of a dryer sheet (didn't have any lightweight fiberglass cloth on hand and didn't feel like cutting up something for cloth strips.) and some resin and its held up really well.
I just realised something! Dryer sheets! brilliant!!! These are the fabric cloths one puts in the dryer for the washing?
Yeah, theyre supposed to make the stuff not all staticy. I just grab used ones when I need to do a quick and light glass job.
I always thought "fiberglass roofing tissue" looked promising for lightweight work. Black Fiberglass Tissue Light Chopped Strand Mat Veil 10 Yards | eBay
I haven't tried using an unused one before. The waxy fabric softening coating on it might be problematic, so you may need to volunteer to do some laundry too Or find an old shirt you were going to toss out and just cut strips from it to use rather than buy something.
