HMS Malaya

This will be a build thread covering the construction of HMS Malaya and HMS Queen Elizabeth. Malaya is mine, and the QE is Brian Koehler's. We decided to document the build like we did with our twin Vanguard build ages ago. We got a lot of nice compliments on our previous effort, and this one will be better (and done with nicer cameras).
We both purchased a Ralph Coles QE 1943 hull, which means that it's beautiful and glorious and well worth the price (which was actually totally reasonable), and it also means that there are no casements. One could cut the hull to add them, but it would cause issues with the as-currently-written MWCI stringer rules, which have an unfortunate proviso that whatever the rules say (which is good), if the rules have a diagram for your ship, then the diagram is the final arbiter of where stringers can go. The diagram for the QE does not include a stringer for the top and bottom of the upper hull bulge. Fortunately, the diagram is for the 1941 version of QE, not the 1943 version, so we're safe, but no casements can be added or we'd have to lose one of the upper bulge stringers (because then we'd be using a pre-1943-refit hull which would be subject to the diagram). Confused yet?
So... We will be doing ships that are mostly alike, but a little different inside, reflecting our individual tastes. Both of us will be spending as little as we can, perhaps spending a little more in some areas where a significant advantage would be gained for the outlay. Some of the decisions that we've made include:
1) We are using the classic 6V 12AH batteries, because we both have a number of relatively new ones, and 2 of those is plenty for a battleship running brushless stuff.
2) Brushless everything. Pump and drives will be brushless motors. I've been using them for a while, but this will be a big leap for Brian who has clung to his antique, brushed motors with a charming deperation. heh
3) Guns will be solenoid-fired. Brian will be using Spartan Scientific solenoids, likely fired by BC cards or Team Deltas. I will be using the big Clippard solenoids because I have 8 of them sitting around, firing method to be determined. Bill Byrnes, who has the most reliable ship in Region 3, uses servos to push microswitches, and that is tempting. BC cards are an option for me also. Using the Clippards means that I will need a small battery to fire them, as they are 12V solenoids.
4) We will be capitalizing on the capability to print parts in ABS plastic on my 3D printer. This includes pumps, gearboxes, the superstructure, gun mounts, and props. Props will be torture-tested in the test basin, followed by the lake. Can you say '6-blade 50mm props'? I knew you could! ABS is the same stuff that Legos are made from, and it has proven very durable under fire in the past. My cranes on Lil Scharnie are made from 1/8" ABS and if a 1/2" wide unsupported beam of it can take lots of cannon fire without issue, a fully-supported 1/8" wall SS should do great. It also lets us have all manner of detail printed as part of the SS... splinter shields, windows, doors, portholes, etc. [If the props can't hack it after several iterations, we can always buy metal ones]
5) We will be sporting 2 stringers, at the top and bottom edge of the upper bulge. The waterline is right around there, and that'll be a nice place for a lot of hard area. It also places the "1-inch below' line 1/8" above the start of the lower bulge, which 1) gives us something to glue the balsa to at the bottom and 2) makes all the sticky-outy pieces legally hard area, making the ship largely ram-proof. Or at least, no huge gaping holes from rams will be likely.
I can guarantee a finish on this ship, because Brian is a harsh taskmaster, and we are both going to battle these until we are good with them, and then battle them some more. Brian thinks that this ship will suit me more than some of the other options we looked at (another Vanguard each, among other possibilities) because I'm not a good cruiser captain (apart from Lil Scharnie), more of a slugger captain, which as it turns out, is pretty much how I misuse Lil Scharnie
Note on the props: in the current drawings in sketchup, I have the blades 1/8" thick, with a decent fillet at the base where the blades join the hub. I'll post some pics of the early efforts in a bit.

 

RE: HMS Malaya and HMS Queen Elizabeth
This is Queen Elizabeth, floating in the water for waterline testing. 29 pounds, 1 ounce of batteries, BBs, and a carton of CO2 cartridges from my Gearing got her to this waterline, where we hope to run her. This testing convinces us that it was fine to run a pair of 6V12AH lead-acid batteries. We had put 5 of them in her, plus the extra weight, to get her floating at the waterline we wanted, which is a hair over scale weight (28 pounds, 13.4 ounces). We need the ballast anyway, and using good batteries that we already have will keep the wives from getting mad(der) about ANOTHER battleship. Well, Brian's wife, anyway. I've been cruisering for a while

Below is a (very blurry) pic of Malaya near the stern, showing the twin stringers and a few ribs towards the aft end of the ship. I still have to cut more out between the stringers, that was when I was pushing myself a few days after surgery when I shouldn't have. THAT ended pretty quick. Don't try to cut out your hull 'mostly left handed' 4 days after carpal tunnel surgery on your right hand... Anyhow, the tape I bought from Hobby Lobby in town. The 1/8" is technically 3mm, so I'm erring on the side of less solid area than I could claim under the rules. Rivet counters and rules lawyers, take notice and weep The 1/4" is similarly a bit smaller than 1/4". No biggie. The main thing I noticed after taping the sides of the hull is: This thing will be a pain to cut out I can live with that. Lil Scharnie was painful but you only have to do it once and then enjoy the weeping and gnashing of teeth as BBs bounce off the hard area for years afterwards.

Below, I've just finished tacking in the stern subdeck with CA glue. I was very careful to space it 1/8" down from the upper edge of the hull. Brian and I got a good rythm going with one of us fitting a piece to the hull, and the other shaping a piece on the beltsander, back and forth. So both of us have the subdecks and decks fitted (but not all tacked in. Yet.). The batteries are in the hull for a reason! It gives the hull more mass so that it doesn't slide around while one is working on it. Similarly, the little spool of solder is there because I am tacking my decks in with solder. Not! I used the solder to help hold the wood down when the end wanted to spring up. It's good to have some small clamps (we use a lot of film clips and clothespins) to hold things in place while glue sets, so you can do other things.

Another side shot of the stern... I still have to put the 1/4" tape on this side for the ribs, but I think it shows the complexity of the hull and where I'm putting stringers. It also shows how this ship will be hard to give serious ram damage to... the outside edge of the upper bulge is a stringer, and the outside edge of the lower bulge is in the legally solid area (p>

Below is an old photo comparing the solenoid type that I will be using to the popular (but pricey) Kip solenoid. The disadvantage of the large Clippard ones is that they are 12V, so I'll need a separate battery for the guns. The advantages are: 1) Half the price of Kips and 2) the much larger fittings (Kips use 10/32") means I can use push-quick fittings and get higher gas flow. They also make messing with hoses a LOT easier... No cutting hoses off of barbs! *Second most important lesson I've learned in my short time battling is: Easier, faster maintenance makes life better! *The Clippard solenoid is bigger than the Kip, but weight is actually about the same. ** The big barb on the right side of the solenoid was bought a while ago and will be replaced by a push-quick fitting. But for those interested, I bought that barb at Lowe's in the same section that you get brass parts for cannons. ***The main reason I'm using the Clippards over the Spartans (which Brian is using) is that I have 8 of the Clippards laying around, barely used. Four to go in the ship, four spares.

That's all for now, folks!

 

RE: HMS Malaya and HMS Queen Elizabeth hovey, we all know what your next ship is. but this should be a good build to watch

 

RE: HMS Malaya and HMS Queen Elizabeth I am building an Allied battleship to serve the Greater Good(tm)... I tallied the ships in my area and what the new battlers are building, and Region 3 is becoming something of an Axis pond. Which is great and glorious and inevitable (Banzai!!^3) but I like playing Axis vs Allies more than Flag vs No-Flag. So Allied it is. I still have Lil Scharnie in full fighting trim (although badly needing a re-sheet), so I will be able to use what is best to balance the teams.

 

RE: HMS Malaya and HMS Queen Elizabeth
So, I began my short stint in the shop today by laying out a 3/8" wide band around the outer edge of the back deck, which would be cut free to form the caprail. It's that wide so that deck hold-downs can be easily incorporated (plastic windows screen holder things from Lowes). I cut the caprail off being very careful so that the line would be pretty (I am all about pretty.) I then added blue painter's tape under the subdeck, mixed up a cup of West System (one pump of epoxy&hardener is plenty for the stern subdeck and caprail), and used an acid brush to paint epoxy onto the subdeck, and to goosh it into the cracks where they existed. I then pressed the caprail down on top of the subdeck, and used little strips of the painter's tape to hold it down and out to the edges. Gooshed more epoxy into the gapes and painted around to use up more of the epoxy. The gap at the very stern end ate more epoxy, that's pretty normal.

But I want to be sure that the stern subdeck and caprail are pressed together and level with the top of the hull! How to do this? Pull out your wax paper! You DO have a roll of wax paper in your shop, don't you? Keeps the Missus happy that you aren't stealing hers. Regardless of source, rip a piece of wax paper off that's big enough to cover the whole back end, plus a little bit extra. Lay it on top of the caprail.

THEN: put a piece of plywood on top (preferably 1/4" or thicker) that is bigger than the back end of the boat. Proceed to pile a lot of heavy things on it. Not the cat; he seemed to not be interested in sitting there (without food) for several hours. This crude press will hold the caprail tightly to the subdeck, and press no deeper than the edge of the hull. After the epoxy has cured, we can remove the weights, and peel up the wax paper. Some may stick to the caprail, but we're going to sand it when we're further along, to make it prettier.

Below is the modified CO2 regulator that I will be using for Malaya; I drilled and tapped the low-pressure end for 3/8" NPT threads, and screwed in a push-quick fitting that takes a 3/8" hose, which will carry the gas out to the manifold(s) where it will be reduced to 1/4" hose all the way to the guns. The regulator previously saw combat in my POW, and it moves some GAS!

That's all for tonight! Thanks for following the build!

 

RE: HMS Malaya and HMS Queen Elizabeth
Good idea! Do you know a BOD member, Mike?
[EDIT] While that comes across as flip (I was giggling when I wrote it), Being that you're a BOD member, do you want to run it past your fellow BOD members?

 

RE: HMS Malaya and HMS Queen Elizabeth Oh, sorry, Mike, I thought you were on the BOD. Out of curiosity, how many double-bulged ships are there? I think some Japanese ships got multiple bulges due to welding problems, but I'm not sure beyond that.

Bob, the angles on the 2 bulges are sharp and on the top bulge, the top and bottom of that feature are easily far enough apart to need two stringers. The pic that shows the tape lines close together is towards the stern where they're closer together. Amidships is a different story, where it's about 3/8" vertically measured, about 1/2" on the hull itself.

Brian and I made the decision to build the 1943 version (sans casements) because we didn't want to worry with producing and adding casements to a beautifully-executed hull. The last reason either of us picks boats for is advantages of hull form. I did Scharnie because I hadn't seen anyone battling one, and discovered the bulletproofyness later when I was trying to hack through a half inch of fiberglass and wondering why it needed 'all these damn stringers' lol... Little appreciating that they would later make Scharnie such great fun driving through packs of battleships where cruisers have no business being. Frankly, I'm worried that Scharnie's toughness has made me complacent and that Malaya will be badly abused until I learn to guard myself properly!

 

RE: HMS Malaya and HMS Queen Elizabeth
Quick update, I snuck out to the shop briefly, and pulled the wax paper off. It looked like below, and I was very pleased to see that the weights ont he plywood had done thier job, and everything was level with the sides of the hull.

A few spots need a little more epoxy to fully fill the gaps:

And below. You can also see a little of the sometimes-funky pattern that the wax paper can leave. This weekend, I will be removing the blue tape and doing a similar task on the forward subdeck and caprail, although I still have to decide where I want to put the cross-brace on the forward subdeck. When I am epoxying it in, any extra epoxy will go to fill in the gaps in the stern area, and to paint the exposed wood there before I start sanding the whole thing flat and pretty. The pic below also shows the upper armor belt and the two stringers, looking at it from not-quite vertically outboard. The third piece of horizontally-laid tape is the top of the solid area.