How do I wire up my motors?

Discussion in 'Propulsion' started by a1476ae5-898a-43ff-b257-201169938578, Nov 8, 2006.

  1. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2006
    Posts:
    5,751
    Location:
    St. John's Newfoundland , Canada
    Nothing wrong with a debate and I don't believe anyone is pissed off. I am certaintly not but it if it came across this way I apologize for that. The whole purpose of these threads is to exchange info and there's bound to be disagreements but everbody here are on the same page are looking to improve and understand the things we are doing here so that it can be shared for the betterment of them all. Ok I like Canadian Beer you up for it? lol
     
  2. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    I'm cool :) Are you Big Gun guys running direct drive, or gearboxes? Most Fast Guns BBs draw 10A or so at ahead flank, whether using ESCs or MAG throttle. A neat alternative to either is a card from Team Delta that has 2 relays on it that switch like a mag throttle does. Solid state, and you can coat the whole thing with waterproofing of your choice. I use a Scotch product but can't recall the name. They have one rated at 9A up to 20V, and a bigger one that I can't remember what it's rated for, but it's pretty rediculously high by our standards. I have one of those (9A one)for Hyuga, and a single relay card for the pump control (rated at 20A, just in case). I agree with Andy, if someone is pulling 20A they have smoke coming out of their ship.
     
  3. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2006
    Posts:
    2,212
    Location:
    Dallas
    Guys,
    You are right a ship pulling that kind of power constantly is wrong... I meant surge current. & I also forgot to say the Alsace had some race motors at the time. I was tired and about to go home. Still 10 Amps cont probably has 20+A surge... So the point I was making was still true, make sure you rate everything!

    The iowa is a major experiment, & i'm not kidding could easily pull 80-90+ amps (surge) if I let her. When she gets closer to completion, I'll make a write up.
     
  4. Craig

    Craig Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2006
    Posts:
    1,537
    I'm still a little fuzzy on the whole wiring electrical side of things. Opinions on directly soldering the electrical wiring or going with deans connectors for the setup?
     
  5. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2006
    Posts:
    2,212
    Location:
    Dallas
    Solder anything you don't want to disconnect frequently.
     
  6. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2006
    Posts:
    5,751
    Location:
    St. John's Newfoundland , Canada
    This was a great discussion. There are no winners or losers here but I think we all gained something from this. Justin it was the North Carolina with the Big Radar dish. I think he has his satellite TV channels running through it now for the winter. lol
     
  7. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2006
    Posts:
    5,751
    Location:
    St. John's Newfoundland , Canada
    Dito on that whatever you don't have to disconnect solder. Deans are great if you need to disconnet and you want to reduce resistance. HAHA here we go again Resistance is Futile Craig.
     
  8. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    Deans connectors? Are you guys nuts!?!?!?!? LOL


    Seriously, I use Anderson powerpole connectors, same type as Ham operators use. They're cheap(75 cents/pair), easy, and they're rated for 30A or more, depending on which model. Oh, and the contacts are silver plated. They take a tiny bit more room than deans connectors, but not enough that it'd be a problem even in destroyers.

    Again, lots of room for disagreement between reasonable people. Most guys in MWCI that I know use Deans just because that's what they have on their other ships.
     
  9. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2006
    Posts:
    5,751
    Location:
    St. John's Newfoundland , Canada
    I've heard of Andersons.Thier good too. I have articles that give both good ratings. Captains choice as long as they work well and the price is right.
     
  10. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    Exactly. I believe the Andersons to be superior, but not SO superior that it'd be worth swapping out connectors if I already had Deans ones installed. And if I had Deans ones installed, on one ship, I'd probably go with them on the others for uniformity's sake.

    That said, when the web store opens, it'll have the Powerpole connectors in it :) I buy them in batches of 200 pairs or more, so I get a very reasonable price for them :) I looked at Deans website, and they list prices as:

    #2010 1 Female Pigtail $4.25 Retail
    #2013 1 Male Pigtail $4.75

    So 9 bucks for a battery connection. At non-bulk prices for Powerpoles, the same set of connectors is about $2. I'm not pimping my store :) cause I don't have one yet, and if anyone wants to know where I buy them, I'll cheerfully share the source in the spirit of RC naval carnage-inducing brotherhood. I'm just saying... for the price difference... ya know?
     
  11. Craig

    Craig Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2006
    Posts:
    1,537
    Interesting stuff. Does the kit propulsion/steering kit from Battler's come with all this Curt?
     
  12. Craig

    Craig Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2006
    Posts:
    1,537
    Tuggs... how do you find the resistence with your setup?
     
  13. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2006
    Posts:
    5,751
    Location:
    St. John's Newfoundland , Canada
    Will you stop calling him Tuggs! What are ya a Carebear fan?
     
  14. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    Well, I drive my ship out onto the pond until the damn resistance takes a shot at it. That's how I find them. Then I pound the rebel scum into oblivion, unless they blow up my Death Star first.


    Seriously, which resistance do you mean? The resistance of the whole electrical system?
     
  15. Craig

    Craig Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2006
    Posts:
    1,537
    Oh my.
     
  16. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2006
    Posts:
    5,751
    Location:
    St. John's Newfoundland , Canada
    No they do not supply connectors for your motors. That's up to the Captain to decide what to use.
     
  17. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2006
    Posts:
    2,212
    Location:
    Dallas
    resistence of plugs can be found by a multimeter & each of the plug you are trying to read. Resisence of the whole system is MUCH more difficult because it will change according to speed, acceleration, & water.
     
  18. Craig

    Craig Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2006
    Posts:
    1,537
    I see. With the wiring of the new ship, I just would like to start everything on the right foot. I am alright with certain things, the two that mess me up are electrical and motors/props. Electrical, I have some great diagrams, advice and help. However, when it comes right down to it, I'm still not sure what is right buying the wire and connector's, to how the setup in the end should be done, series, etc. Suggestions/advice/thoughts?
     
  19. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    I like to use 12 or 14 gage wire, and the Powerpole connectors. I fuse the drive motor(s), but not the pump.

    For wire, almost any 12 or 14 gage will be fine, the main thing is to make good solder joints (so they're low-resistance joints). The Radio Shack cheapy 100W solder gun will do just fine for this, or if you have a temperature-controlled solder station, that will too.

    For connectors, as we've already discussed, I like Powerpole and lots of people still use Deans (more expensive, probably same performance). If you're worried about replacing connectors by the lake, I'd see what the rest of your squadron uses, and get that. Having highly cool Powerpole connectors won't help if everyone else has Deans. On the other hand, I just have a big bag of Powerpole connectors in my toolbox :)

    For wiring the drive motors, I like series, Justin likes parallel, and a fair number of people wire them either way. However they get wired, the key is to make sure they turn in opposite directions, with the prop blades going up on the side next to the hull. I also put capacitors from + to - and from - to the motor case, on each motor, to reduce interference.
     
  20. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2006
    Posts:
    2,212
    Location:
    Dallas
    I agree with Tuggy, with almost an exception of one thing.... Wire gauge. ;)

    Figure out how much current you need before you slap some wire in it.

    14GA = 15A
    12GA = 20A
    10GA = 30A
    8GA = 40A

    Visit this site