how to, for a transport

Discussion in 'Construction' started by burnzy232, Apr 7, 2010.

  1. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    ok, this is a re edit on my build of my ss wollongbar, this how to has some of my tips and a lot of other tips from forum members as it is my first build and it will include pionters from my other thred over in the ship build section where i ask how to do somthing myself:)
    ill add more pics and words as i go through the build
    ok so this is how i marked and taped the windows on the hull, again this is just how i did it but it may profide some tips on going about this if you havent built a ship before, if others have tips please add them if you want and ill put them in as they are posted, and this is for big gun rules.
    so, the first step is to mark out the water line on the hull, to do this i first found a very flat surface(its better if its perfectly flat), to clamp the hull to, with clamping the hull, get a scrap peice of wood that will fit inside the bottom of the hull and put a cloth on the surface that hull is being clamped to and then simply put the clamp on the wood and the bottom of the bench/surface, this will provide proecton to the hull as well as being more secure.
    the flat surface i used was a big piece of glass from a set of ikea shelves, now to get the correct hight of the water line tape your texta to a block of wood, i used a sanding block becasue it slides well on the glass, and measure the water line hight off the plans then just add or remove pieces of balsa so that the tip of the texta is at the water line
    then its just a matter of sliding your block with texta allong the glass making sure to get a clear line on the hull.
    what i did was not to draw a big line all the way down the hull, just mark it every 5cm or so, then after the marks are on the hull, get some masking tape and run the tape the full lendth of the hull making sure that the bottom of the tape is the water line with the rest above the water line,
    [​IMG]
    the next step is marking the bottom of the windows, do to this cut a strip of paper that is 25mm thick(ausbg rules) and then use the thickness of the masking tape as a stopper, places the paper strip up agaisnt the thin edge of the tape and mark every 5cm like with the water line,
    [​IMG]
    with the marking of the windows draw the marking over the paper so when you take it away it leaves a nice straight line for you to tape over,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    next tape up tp the bottom of the window with masking tape, use the texta line as a guide, when doing this tape it just a fraction above the line beacasue it easyer to remove fiberglass then it is to add, or rather you cannot add any if you dremel it off.
    [​IMG]
    ok so now with the bottom of the windows marked take off the water line tape,
    next step is marking the front window, for this cut another strip of paper 50mm long and then place it on the hull with the corner of the paper on the very edge of the front of the ship, the idea is to get the front section of the first window as the same profile as the front of the ship, and tape it up
    [​IMG]
    next, step is marking out the length of the window, again cut a strip of paper 76mm long(ausbg rules) and like with the marking the bottom of the windows, push this up against the tape and put a mark were the first rib will be, do this at the bottom of the window,
    [​IMG]
    now if you can get some tamiya 10mm tape the rest is smiply repeating the this step over ang over again,
    ok so put the10mm tape edge on the marking, and just a little bit in to make sure that when dremeling if a mistake is made its not to bad. with the first rib, just use the texta block to put a mark up a bit so that it is square and tape it up, note the 10mm tape is the ribs(ausbg rules)
    [​IMG]
    next step is the same as before for the rest of the windows, just get the 76mm paper strip and put it up against the tape at the bottom of the window, put a mark for the next window, put the tape at the top and mark the top of the next window, tape up on the marks and repeat for the next window,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    with the last window i did what i did with the front window, the rear of the last window should be the same profile as the rear of the hull, to this, get your plans and trace the rear of the hull onto a piece of paper and cut it out, place it on the hull and trace the profile on the hull with the texta, a tip with tracing the profile on the paper, if you have a laptop, open a word doc, (you just need a white back ground), put the screen all the way back so its flat and put the plans on the screen with paper on top and you should be able to see the plans through the paper quite clearly,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    the next step is marking the cap rail, this is easyest step as you can use 12mm thick dowl as the marker, just put the dowl on the hull mark it every 5cm, then tape, just like the ribs and water line. on curvey bits like on this hull just draw these by hand and measure with the dowl,
    once its all taped and marked out this is what you get, note in the pic below my rear window hasnt been marked out with the profile, so ignore the last window, but the rest are the way they will be cut out.
    [​IMG]

    the next part will be on drilling holes and dremeling the windows
     
  2. eljefe

    eljefe Active Member

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    That looks way too pretty to be covered over with balsa wood.
     
  3. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    ok, on with the windows, for this i highly recomend using a vacumcleaner as a dust extractor, ill explane this as we get to it,
    so, the first thing you what when dremeling is for the hull NOT to move at all when cutting, so get that block of wood and clamp again and clamp the hull with the windows facing up on to a bench, be sure to put a towl or rag between the bench and the hull so that it doesnt take off the tape you just put on, especialy if you are using the tamyia tape as it is low tack tape.
    [​IMG]
    next, is marking the holes in the corners of all the windows, of this step if you can get your hands on a rc car body reemer then life is very easy, this is what the look like
    [​IMG]
    these are very usefull with marking the spots where you what to drill, they put a mark exactly where you want and wont slip off the fiber glass, so what you want to do is get the drill bit you will be using for the windows, i recomend not the smallest bit but one thats about 1/8 of an inch in diamiter, so get your drill bit and place it in the corner of the winow
    [​IMG]
    this will show you where to put the locating hole with the reemer, so with the reemer put the tip were you what the mark to be and give it 2 or so turns with medium pressure, becasue this is just a locating hole for the drill to stop it sliding around you only need a mark not a hole,
    [​IMG]
    once thats done you should have a nice little mark for the drill bit to sit into
    [​IMG]
    now this next bit is a not what to do,
    with the corners of the windows you dont want the hole to be exatly flush with the tape like this
    [​IMG]
    instead you want a small gap between the tape and the hole like this
    [​IMG]
    this small bit of extra fiberglass will prefent the dremel from eating away into the base and top of the ribs if it grabs and runs along the edge of the window, this is what happened to me before i realised to dremel the other way, so this is what you are trying to avoid,
    [​IMG]
    you can see in the above pic were the drill hole was to close to the tape and hasnt left any material to stop the demel eating a small piece of the caprail away when it grabed and ran along the edge of the rib. although this isnt such an issue it can be worse if the dremel is set at a higher speed,
    ok so now mark out all the windows with the reemer making sure that the locating mark is not so close to the tape that when its drilled the hole is right up againts the tape,
    next is simply drilling the holes, with this step, dont force the drill through the fiberglass as it will punch a hole instead of drill a hole and where the drill bit comes out there will be frayed edges all around it, so let the drill actually dril a hole through the glass with minimal presure on the handle, you will end up with a nicer result and less fiber glasa to clean up afterwards.
    ok so with all the holes drilled in the windows the next step is cutting them out, for this get a dremel with a cutting wheel on it, but before this you what to set up the vacumcleaner and get on a marsk and saftey glasses if you are concerned about your health,
    with the hull still clamped in place set up the end of the vacume like this
    [​IMG]
    you want the end of the vacume to be as close to the spot you are dremeling without it getting in the way of course
    [​IMG]
    next comes the fun part, the demeling, when cutting out the windows always have the end of the dremel facing you, and the outside of the cutting wheel on the inside of the window
    so like this
    [​IMG]
    NOT like this
    [​IMG]
    the first window i did i tryed it both ways and the easyest way is with top photo, becasue when you cut down with the dremel it wont take out extra fiberglass, becasue it goes down on a arc not a vertical striaght line.
    so, when dremeling the fiberglass i found that starting from right to left is the easyest way, if you go the other way the dremel will grab and it will cut something that you dont want to cut, so my tip is from right to left
    also, the first cut on the window is very,very important, you want it to be as straight and as close to the tape without touching it as posible, the first cut, you dont want do go all the wat through the window, just half the thick ness of the hull is fine, then work your way along the window cutting only half way down, making sure to get as close to the tape as posible without touching. then go back to the right side of the window and this time cut all the way through, youll notice that the first cut acts as a guide and makes it much easyer to cut along the window with out the dremel sliping around.
    the type of action when cutting is not a side to side movement instead you want to cut down then lift up move along a fraction then cut down again ect al the way along the window, if you try to slide the dremel along the window it sort of works but theres less control as you are moving your hands along the hull with the demel, if you cut down then you can rest you hands on the hull to steady yourself when cutting. another thing i found was its easyer to cut with the dremel on the lowest setting, i tryed a higher setting but again when it grabs it just makes more of a mess and it doesnt really speed things up, instead you tend to go slower becasue if you make a mistake then it takes out a lot of fiberglass from places that you dont want.
    so to start turn on the vacume first, then the dremel and start cutting, when you have done the first cut, move the vacume over to the next window and dremel that one and repeat until you have the bottoms of all the windows cut, then reclamp the hull on the table so that you can cut the tops of the windows, remeber right to left, then once thats done reposition the hull and clamp it so that you can cut the sides of the windows i.e. the ribs.
    now with this step remeber to only cut the side of the rib that is on the outside of the cutting wheel as shown in the above pic, dont cut both sides of a rib becasue the rib will end up thiner on the inside of the hull were as you want it the same thickness on both sides of the hull, and because it looks nicer as well,
    so when it comes to the last side of the windows to be cut, be carful and go slower as you approach the coner of the window as the fiberglass in the window will hang down and may fling off and hit some thing or some one if you just keep cutting at the same rate with all the other sides of the window, you may want to tape the window inplace with some masking tape to prevent it from falling out and ripping off fiberglass from the inside of the hull.
    so when all the windows are cut, if you which you can tidey them up with a file or sandpaper as i did, if you cut to far inside the window as i did then just file the glass away intill its on the tape, then once it looks all good take the tape off and you should be left with something that looks like this
    [​IMG]
    ok lasty some tips that i did when cutting out the windows, i wore black clothes to see if the vacume was missing any dust that the dremel was making, if i smelt and fiberglass through the mask, i would turn up the suction of the vacume
    and also i cut half the window length with the vacume taped in the middle of the window so to minimise the dust blocking out the tape and you cant see where to cut, then move th vacume along as you cut, but this is fairly time consuming, it much easyer if you get someone to hold the vacume for you.
    next section will be on making a stuffing tube, drilling the hole for the stuffing tube and mounting the motor.
     
  4. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    haha, thanks, thats why im taking some pics of it before it gets all shot up and sunk:laugh:
     
  5. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Nice tutorial Burnzy... now to find an RC car body reamer :) Keep up the good work!
     
  6. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    ah, yes a reamer, with an a not an e like i spelt it:whistling:
    hobby shops should have those, just make sure you get one thats got a long sharp end like the one in the photo, becasue there are different sorts that are more like a drill bit and they are designed only for drilling holes in lexan, also they can be expencive which sorta sucks becasue the only real time you use them is for the windows and the propshaft hole, unless you have some rc cars in need of bodies, but that said they do make drilling holes a lot easyer
    i should have more to post by tommorow, just got the prop shaft hole done and some caprailing started
     
  7. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    myatomic (probably my favorite non-LHS source for things) carries a few options
     
  8. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    well i hoped today i would be able to post some more tips but so far my first attempt at a motor mount failed epicly, so it will be a few more days before i can post any new info on motor mounting how ever i have one way theat may work on a boat were the prop shaft is higher on the boat then what mine was,
    so the next bit is drilling the hole for the stuffing tube to go through.
    first thing you want to do is mark the position on the hull where the shaft is meant to go, just measure this off your plans and transfer to the hull,
    [​IMG]
    next, clamp your hull to a bench that is more at shoulder level when sitting down, this makes it easer when drilling the hole, so this is what i did,
    [​IMG]
    now becasue the hole isnt that long, you may want to use a drill press if you have one, i dont know if this is any easyer as you'll have to mount the hull verticaly, but then drilling the straight hole should be easyer.
    next get the reamer(spelt it right this time:whistling:) and mark a locating hole on the hull, you want this directly in the middle of what you are drilling into, both from the side and straight on
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    once done youll have a small mark like with the windows
    [​IMG]
    next is drilling the hole, for this use a small drill bit for the first hole then use bigger and bigger bits untill the hole is slightly over te size of your stuffing tube.
    [​IMG]
    oh and try not to do what i did which is break the drill bit off inside of the fiber glass:laugh:, it will turn a 20min job into a 1 hour job, trying to get it out,
    so to avoid breaking the small drill bit off in the glass only drill in about and inch or less, then swich up sizes and drill the hole out going in further into the hull each time,
    when drilling if you can get some one to spot you from the side making sure that your drilling both horizontaly and verticaly straight, it makes this part easyer, if not, go slow, drill a bit check the line and drill a bit more, check, and so on untill your all the way through the hull, this part also easyer if you have a drill press.
    [​IMG]
    so thats the hole done
    next is making a stuffing tube,
    now a stuffing tube is just a tube thats made up of two sizes of tube where one tube will fit the prop shaft snugly but alow it to rotate freely and the othe tube fits over the tube that the shaft fits in,
    theres a good list of tube sizes on the forum somewhere(i forget where) that has the sizes listed in the order that they fit inside each other,
    the tube is made so that the smaller tube is like a bearing or bushing at each end of the bigger tube, then the hole thing is filled with grease and the prop shaft is put through in, it alows the shaft to spin and keeps water out,
    so the first thing to do is measure how long the tube needs to be
    [​IMG]
    this tube is not that long its about 10cm long, the lenght will depend on the hull you have,
    next, cut the tube with a dremel, again like with the windows cut down rotate the tube a bit then cut town again, you want this to be a little over the lenght mesured but only by a mm or 2 as this will dremeled away later
    so next get the smaler tube and measuer an inch length
    [​IMG]
    mark it so when the bigger tube is put over it the mark can be seen clearly
    [​IMG]
    for this part you will need a soldering iron, they only one i have is an 80w iron with a big fat chizle tip, you proberbly dont need a 80w iron but it did mae it easyer as the solder heats the tube quickly, also dont use a chizle tip, use a fine tip, youll also want some 60/40 0.8 mm solder i proberbly would go not for lead free solder as this isnt user friendly and you'll need a hotter soldering iron to get it to melt,
    the last thing i used for soldering is some liquid flux,
    so once the tube is cut, get some flux and put it on the smaller tube that will go inside the bigger tube, put enough on so that the whole thing is coverd then put another drop on and slide the bigger to over the top up to the mark, rotate the bigger tube so that the flux is also coating the inside of the bigger tube.
    then get your soldering iron and heat up the two peices of tube, just put the tip on the smaller tube has you dont want any solder to stick on the bigger tube, then get your solder and put some on the smaller tube and then work it towards the end of the bigger tube, use small amounts of solder becasue if you use to much it ends up making a ball of solder inside the tube and the shaft wont fit in past the ball,
    as a guide to the amount you need is just enough to seal the ends, this when the solder is convex all the way around the tube
    [​IMG]
    then get the dremel and cut off the excess smaller tube
    [​IMG]
    and then repeat for the other end of the tube,
    when finshed push the prop shaft through to see if it spins freely,
    [​IMG]
    and then check the length by putting it back in the hull, if its a bit over length just measuer the amount to cut off, half that measurement and take equal amounts off each end of the tube to get it to fit
    [​IMG]
    and thats the stuffing tube done, next will be motor mounting/making
     
  9. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    a thought that most people tend to be disinterested in, for obvious reasons, is that it may be helpful to show what youve tried that didn't work, for those who follow after.
     
  10. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    indeed, if you want i can post on how i got the stuck drill bit out of the fiberglass, other then that ill be posting my failed motor mount that may work in other ships but it didnt quite work in mine, a bit of a space issue. if if run into any 'what didnt work' type of situations ill post them up:).
     
  11. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    ok, on with making the motor mount, for this ill do two ways that i tryed to mount the motor in the hull
    the first way will be a wood mount, for this you first need to measure how far up the motor will be off the bottom of the hull, you what the motor at a hight that allows the pin of the motor to be on the same level as the prop shaft, for me it was about 10mm,
    next get a block of wood that is the same lenght/thickness as the can of the motor
    [​IMG]
    then mark out the hight that the motor will be on the block of wood, for me i used a peice of 10mm dowl
    [​IMG]
    next, get a wood drill bit that is the same diamiter as the can of the motor
    [​IMG]
    then place this on the mark on the wood block, mark where the point of the bit will drill
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    drill a small pilot hole on the mark
    [​IMG]
    then drill the hole out using the wood drill bit, for this drill only a small thickness out to see if it is in the right spot
    [​IMG]
    as you can see in the pic above the hole will be were you want it to be, just on the pencil line is good.
    then just keep drilling the hole untill your all the way through the wood block
    [​IMG]
    next mark out what you want the mount to look like
    [​IMG]
    cut out the mount useing a saw, if you have band saw then this step is much faster and easyer,
    [​IMG]
    then cut off the top half of the mount so that you can drop the motor in from above, when your done it should look like this
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    next, drill a hole from the side all the way through the mount, this hole is for a cable tie to thred through so it only needs to be th size of the cable tie, for this step you realy want to have a drill press, this will make the job so much easyer, i did without a drill press and i ended up making three new mounts becasue the hole kept coming out at the wrong angle, so when the hole is drilled, get some double sided tape, line the mount where the motor will go
    [​IMG]
    then stick the motor to the tape and put the cable tie through the hole, over the motor and put it as tight as humanly posible, when your done it will look like this
    [​IMG]
    then place the mount in the hull to see if the motor pin lines up with the prop shaft
    [​IMG]
    and thats the wood mount done
     
  12. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    and this is the aluminum mount
    for this youll need some L shaped aluminum,
    [​IMG]
    measure how long the mount needs to be for the motor
    [​IMG]
    then mark out where the pin of the motor will go though the mount
    [​IMG]
    drill out the hole and check if the motor fits
    [​IMG]
    then cut off the mount, for this its easyer to clamp the alumium to a bench and use a hack saw,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    then to mark out the holes that will be use to screw the motor to the mount , get your motor and cut some paper and put the paper
    on the motor and puch out the two mounting holes
    [​IMG]
    then put the paper on the mount and mark the two holes
    [​IMG]
    drill out the holes
    [​IMG]
    and then screw the motor to the mount
    [​IMG]
    also, drill some holes on the bottom of the mount that will be used to secure it to a block of wood that is guled in the hull
    make sure you can get a screw driver to the holes so that the motor mount screws dont get in the way
    [​IMG]
    and thats the alunimum mount done, so you can do either way, or another type of mount if you like, again the mount will
    depend on the ship that you have, the only goal with the mount is to make the motor secure and inline with the prop shaft
    however, you will what the motor to be easly removable so that if the motor stuffs up you can change out the motor quickly
     
  13. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    ok, next is gluing the stuffing tube in the hull,
    so get your stuffing tube and tape it in the hull as if it were going to be glued in, youll want to do this so that you know how to get it in the right position befor you glue
    it in, so when it comes to actually using the glue you can get it inpostion before the glue sets,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    then plug up one end of the tube with some blue tack,
    [​IMG]
    you only want the blue tack to be on the end of the tube not on the outside as will be pulled off when you put it through the hole in the hull
    next mix up some epoxy, you can use lots of other different types of glues, for example auto filler works well as you can paint over it and sand it easly,
    that tip is from Micheal at dreadnaught hulls as i asked him what he uses, but again the glue just needs to be strong enough to hold the tube
    inplace
    so put some epoxy or whatever you are useing in the prop shaft hole from the inside of the hull and also put some
    on the tube at the end which has the blue tack then work in the expoxy with the tube untill the tube is in the hull
    tape up the tube to the position that you want from before
    [​IMG]
    make sure the propshaft will line uopwith the motor pin
    [​IMG]
    at the other end of the tube make sure its coming out to the scale postion, for mine it was flush with the end of the hull
    [​IMG]
    make sure to wipe off the the glue around the tube where it comes out the hull so when you push the prop shaft through
    the tube it hasnt glued the blue tack in the end of the tube.
    then leave to dry, keep checking that the tube hasnt moved from the postion you want it to stay in
    once dry, push the prop shaft through the tube from the inside of the hull so that it pushes te blue tack
    off the other end of the tube,
    [​IMG]
    and thats the stuffing tube glued in
     
  14. Knight4hire

    Knight4hire Active Member

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    A Lot of very good inormation there!
    Thank you!
     
  15. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    glad to help, but its not just my tips, theres also lots of tips from other builders on this forum, so thanks goes to them as well,
    ok, now if your following this how to, im in the process of obtianing a prop for my boat so it may be a week or so before i can get on with the build and start posting more tips so check back in a week or so, once i get the prop the next bits will be on making a rudder, mounting the servo and electronics,
    at the moment im putting cap railing on so i will post more in a couple of days on how to do that,
     
  16. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

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    ok, on with the build,
    while im waiting for my prop to arrive i thought i would start on the caprailing
    so..., the first step is to get some wood/dowl the dowl needs to be 12mm by 12mm square and also some 9mm by 9mm square,
    the type really is up to you, but you want wood that is light and strong, light because you dont want lots of mass up high in the hull as it will casue the ship to roll around and also becasue it will be easyer to get the ship float at the scale water line,
    if your hull has long, shallow curves then you may also want wood thats easy to bend when it is steamed/boiled, now i didnt use any steamed/boiled caprailing because my hull has mostly straight lines, and the curves are very short, i did try to boil some of the wood but it didnt curve enough to fit the lines of the hull.
    if people have suggestions on what type of wood you use please add them as i dont really know what the best wood is to use.
    ok so with the 12mm dowl youl want to router out a grove in the wood that will hold the deck, for my deck i used some 3mm thick plywood, but you can use thicker ply if you like, but remember that the thicker the wood will add more mass on the top of the hull and make it more unstable in the water.
    so the grove i made in the 12mm wood is a 6mm by 3mm rectangle on one corner of the dowl, so that the deck fits in nice and flush,
    [​IMG]
    now if you have a router then its easy to make the grove, but if you dont you can use a dremel, i set mine up like in the photo, its just clamped to the bench with a block of wood also clamped to the bench, to get the dowl up to the cutting wheel i just used some balsa wood, so the balsa and block make a slide for the dowl to go on, then you simply feed in the dowl from the end that the dremel is spining down, if you go from the other side then the dowl will shoot up and just splinter at that end,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    so, once youve got the dowl routered you can measuer out lengths that will go accross the hull, youll need to lay the hull down on the plans and see if it all lines up, if not youll need to fit the dowl a little over size so that the hull bends out to the right width,
    [​IMG]
    on my hull, ive only put the 12mm dowl on the top decks, but if your hull is different you can put the dowl were ever it i needed, personally i would put this all the way around the hull,
    on the lower deck ive put the 9mm square dowl on the sides and if measured correctly the bottom of the windows will help line the rail up so thats its 3mm below the top of the hull,
    now, when glueing the railing to the hull, first sand the parts of the hull whever you what the glue to stick, so for this sand the whole top 12mm of the hull, to be safe just sand the top 2cm of the hull,
    [​IMG]
    try to remove all of the shine off the hull as the glue wont really stick as well to this as the sanded parts,
    the glue i used was the ureathane glue, this is a slower setting glue then epoxy and will give you more time to line up the caprailing in the right spot, but again you can use expoxy if you want to.
    so first get your caprailing and put a thickish bead all the way allong the wood, i doesnt matter if you use more becuase you can just wipe it off if theres to much, then place the wood were you want it and slide it up and down, back and forth so that the glue is coming out the sides and the top and bottom, this will make sure that there is glue all between the hull and wood,
    to line up the rail, if you cut the top of the windows corretly then the hull should be 12mm thick and becasue your useing a 9mm peice of wood then the bottom of the 12mm thick caprailing on the hull will be the spot to line up on, also you can use the cross sections as a guide if you have one at either end of the hull,
    [​IMG]
    then put some clamps on the wood to hold it in place and let it dry,
    [​IMG]
    you may also need to brace some peices in place with other dowl like the cross 12mm rails
    [​IMG]
    when dry remove the excess glue by running a hobby knife along the edges of the rail, make sure not ot cut to deep with the knife as youll end up cutting the railing off, also if your caping doesnt need that many clamps you can remove the excess with a rag or push it off with another bit of dowl,
    with my hull im just doing the straight bits of hull and then glueing some blocks in at the ends which will support the decking at the ends of the hull, also these wil have a small latch that will hold down the deck, more on this as i build it.
    and thats the cap railing all done,
    next will be making some deck peices
     
  17. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2006
    Posts:
    3,522
    Looking good. Interesting use of wooden dowels, instead of wood sheet cut to shape. I wonder how well that works out on more... curvy hulls.

    How are you planning to hold the decks in place? Also, are you planning to seal the decks?
     
  18. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2010
    Posts:
    166
    yes, the dowl, well... doesnt work at all on the curves of my hull, however the curves are very, umm.. curvey:D they are very short and bend alot, i tryed doing the boil the wood then bend it around some screws technique but the wood just doesnt bend very well, im now seriosly concidering buying some better tools, proberbly a small bench disk sander and a scroll saw,
    as for the decks, im going to make up another block for the ends useing that routered dowl and just cut a flat section off the ends about 1cm in, then make a little latch, like a servo horn, ans screw it onto the blocks at the ends, so that when the deck is down you just turn the latch over the deck and it will keep it down,
    as for sealing the decks, mayby wood varnish, but ive had succses in useing epoxy, what you do is mix up a big bunch, then microwave it for 10 seconds, this makes it go almost like water, a little thicker but much much thiner then it usally is, then just paint it on, and it drys in 10mins completly hard no need to wait over night, you know the whole heat makes chemicals react faster, but the over all yeild is low thing.
    but, im not sure how it will stand up in combat, the epoxy may shatter off when hit, what do people normaly use?
    is that what you meant by seal or did you mean seal the decks water tight to the hull?
     
  19. radollar2000

    radollar2000 Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2008
    Posts:
    167
    Location:
    California
    Try putting silicon caulk around the rim and then place your deck with a piece of saran wrap between it and the silicon. Let it dry over night and pull off the saran wrap. It helps form a good seal and remains rubberyish. It was sugested to me and seems to be working well on my boat.
     
  20. burnzy232

    burnzy232 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2010
    Posts:
    166
    ahh yes that may be a problem with my deck, as the cap railing is only on the straigh parts, ill give it a try though, i think it may work if i put a bead of the silicon around the hull then let it dry, then do another bead of silcon exept this time put the deck in with the cling wrap and then let it dry up side down, hopfully the silcon will dry in a caprial type shape under the deck and be sterdy enough to put enough presure between it and the deck to be water tight,
    good tip radollar, keep them comming,
    ok an update, ive orderd my prop and the build should be continuing by the end of this week, so more pics and tips then