Hey folks, I am looking for information on how to protect servo plugs, XT-60 connectors, and other electrical connections from long-term water damage with dielectric grease. I am tired of replacing servos and extensions after a couple years simply due to rusty connectors. Does anybody have photos showing the correct process?
Typically I just put some in the female connector, and then push the connectors together which distributes / coats the main contact areas, then wipe off any excess that comes out the sides. For servo connectors with exposed pins I will rub some on any exposed contacts. I could snap some pictures but there isn't much to it. Any unused/spare connectors in the boat I will make up a dummy plug to put in the the open connector. For dummy plugs I put some e6000 on the exposed potion of the contacts (where wires would be soldered) for insulation.
Same here as Kevin. I've a tube that's lived in my toolbox forever. Typically will put a dab more in pre-Nats prep on any servo connector that has been apart. I've also noticed that MAF Cleaner is good for helping de-crud the JXT balance connectors on my batteries.
Thanks. I have a tube of the stuff on order, along with a few other bits and bobs for the winter refit. Those of us who sink a lot need all the help we can get to improve our turnaround time.
I would put some tape on the connector "cover it so when you deside to separate the connector you can", then pit some kind of RTV to cover everything. I think there is a electric brand of goop that is sold in most automotive stores in the electronic section sitting next the electronic tape
Electrical tape doesn't hold up well in our boats, comes off and leaves sticky residue. If you want a permanent connection, just hard-wire the component in. Components (servos, ESCs, motors) tend to fail so being able to swap them out quickly between battles is a plus. There are varying degrees of modularity you'll see in boats, some captains have a ton of connectors, some have very few. I tend to use more based on desiring ease of pondside repair and having a standard control box that can run most of my capital ships. Most would agree that you shouldn't add a connector without a purpose. Dielectric grease is a best practice for most situations, it's highly recommended if the pond was treated with copper sulfate (also post battle fill and drain cycles with untreated water). If you are concerned about corrosion then clean each connector out annually with corrosion X, remove any residue, reapply dielectric grease, retest boat. Those methods have worked well for me
No the tape is to cover the plug so when the past is applied over the plug it dose not glue the plug together, just use a knife to peel off the applied materials to separate the plug. It has been a while since I have been in the auto store and I can't seem to remember the name or find the insulating past online or I would post a name of the stuff.
Pond side repair/speed. Don't want to drive 4+ hours and have any issue you can't fix in under 5 min pondside (why you will see captains with spares ready to go). Also, look around at what the captains near you are using. If you use the XTC connectors but everyone else is using deans, you will have a less chance of getting back into a battle. And pay attention to polarity, some crazy captains like to be different "because it works in/for their boat".
To bounce off what @Lou said, just because the two captains near you are using 15-year-old connectors and home Depot speaker wire, does not necessarily mean you should emulate them. But the thought process is correct. Figure out what the majority of battlers are using and try to standardize. if you are using connectors that are compatible with the equipment I am using and you blow up a component if it's within my power to loan you a spare or a drop-in part to replace your busted part, I will do so to keep you out on the water. I would like to think the vast majority of captains out there would do the same for me, and many have. I like to have the mindset of leave the wiring in the boat not on the component. So instead of extending the power lead for my motor ESC so that way it can reach a bus bar or something where the batteries are located, I leave the power lead the length it came on the ESC and run the wire to it that way the replacement part doesn't need to be customized at all.
