Hull from scratch

Discussion in 'Construction' started by CaptainEric, Jul 18, 2009.

  1. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2006
    Posts:
    3,522
    Fascinating... still using a single keel... I started using twin keels to form a water channel several years ago, with much success.

    The issue of internal space is huge. The trick is not so much the actual space available, as it is finding a suitable internal layout that puts everything where it needs to be, with easy access, good ballast, and reliable functionality. I was just helping to plan the internal layout of a SoDak with six guns (two rotating triples) and was appalled at how quickly we ran out of space. In the end, we decided to try an "experimental" pump arrangement in order to get everything in. I just hope the water channeling works...
     
  2. mabgfounder

    mabgfounder Member

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2007
    Posts:
    44
    Location:
    Salem, Virginia
    Still... LOL... the hull boat was built back 1999... I would love to see some pictures of your double keel. In Lion's case the use of ash allowed for a flat bottom which made water channeling very easy. The best picture I have is:

    http://mabg.org/balexander/pictures/bestofboats/lion_frame_detail1.jpg

    We have all used fiberglass for years now. Saves a lot of space and is a lot easier to maintain. I think Lumpy was the last boat in our club to built from wood... We really try to encourage people to stick with fiberglass.
     
  3. Nick Park

    Nick Park Member

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2009
    Posts:
    97
    Ive just finished my first scratch built HMS Erin and it was very rewarding to do.
    However, very difficult and the space taken is effectively enormous. I think one must use the best wood you can find at 1/4inch or here in France 6mm.
    My next ship will be fiberglass, but I don't regret at all doing a scratchbuilt ship, its got to be done by everyone at least once. the planning of the
    internal bits is so much better because of the space limitations and can only make ones techniques even better!
     
  4. pellison

    pellison Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2008
    Posts:
    12
    I have made several boats, a light cruiser, transport, and a battle cruiser all from scratch I enjoy the process. The fiberglass hulls will get you on the water faster and easier.

    Over time I have gotten much better and quicker, yes are there tricks, but plan on a winter long build, about several months of evenings maybe 40 hours total.
    Then it will be in the same place as if you bought a fiberglass hull.

    The cost is likely more to scratch build than getting a fiberglass hull after you include the plywood, glue and sealer, after the first boat it might be a draw.

    Given the the time involved my new Seydliz will be a scratch build even if I could get a fiberglass hull for it.

    The one thing that makes scratch building much harder is that you can't toss the hull in the bath tub and give it a quick test until it is all done. So things like the running gear and how it floats there is a risk you will need to rework soon after completing them. Although with newer batteries it is not as much of an issue.
     
  5. webwookie

    webwookie Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2008
    Posts:
    372
    Oops[​IMG], I've been [very slowly] working on an Orfey Class destroyer and contemplating what to do with the severely warped Mogador-class wood hull for the past year or so, outside of the time I've been putting into the fiberglass-hulled Z-25 that I have in progress.
    Back on topic, I strongly suggest looking at the work-in-progress photos of some of the ships that other forum members have posted. If you aren't working off of plans that have discrete templates, you have a lot of room for creativity in how you carry out the details of the structure. However, a couple key points are these:
    • Split/double keel--when the bottom is flat, using a double keel (internally only) may help you to integrate water channeling and a pump well more easily than with a flat board or a literal keel
    • Interlocking parts--to establish maximum structural integrity with wood construction, dado, rabbets, and any other sort of joint that provides intrinsic rigidity goes a long way
    • Epoxy or polyester resin--while there are other options for waterproofing the wood structure, the materials used for modern-day wood hull construction are difficult to beat. 'nuf' said.
    • Keep the superstructure light--odds are that part, if not all of the superstructure may need to be used as a recovery float, not to mention that any displacement used up by the superstructure is displacement not used for propulsion, damage control, weapons, etc.

     
  6. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2006
    Posts:
    3,522
    Stay away from polyester resin, it's nasty stuff. Regular marine epoxy is much less carcinogenic, toxic, stinky, and overall far nicer than the polyester.