hull sheeting

Discussion in 'General' started by Nathaniel Tindall, May 31, 2015.

  1. Nathaniel Tindall

    Nathaniel Tindall Member

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    So, pardon my noob question, I'm sure this has been covered a time or two I just wasn't able to find what I was looking for by searching.

    I will be using 1/16" balsa to sheet my hull.

    What silkspan/glue combo should I use? And what is the process for applying it?

    Sorry if this is a terribly dumb question, but you don't know if you don't ask...lol
     
  2. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    It's not a dumb question. I would check with the big gun club that you intend to battle with so that they can tell you if more than one layer of silkspan is allowed.
     
  3. Nathaniel Tindall

    Nathaniel Tindall Member

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    I will be playing with The Queens Own
     
  4. Cannonman

    Cannonman Ultimate Hero :P -->> C T D <<--

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    You may want to try to PM Gary Powell from the forum here. He is the most active Queens Own member recently I can think of. Some clubs allow a layer of silkspan on both side of the balsa, some only allow it on one side, I can't speak for Queens Own, and couldn't find any rules for them anywhere. You will certainly want to know for sure what is allowed and what isn't before you sheet.

    As far as application, there are a few different methods, and each builder has developed their own favorite, both for application of silkspan, and for attaching the sheeting.

    My preferred method since I can only use silkspan on one side is to:
    1) Coat the side of of the balsa that will be glued to the ship with unthinned nitrate dope (to seal it from water penetration).
    2) Attach the balsa to the ship with contact cement, following the directions on the can.
    3) Trim the edges, then feather them in with a little with some sandpaper.
    4) Coat the outside of the balsa with nitrate dope and let dry.
    5) Cut the silkspan to overlap the edges of the balsa about 3/8".
    6) Lay the silkspan on the ship where you want it and apply thinned nitrate dope to the outside. The thinned dope will soak through the silkspan and since it is thinned will "melt into" the coat of previously applied dope. When it dries it kind of welds the silkspan to the underlying coat of dope.
    7) Lightly prime, sand, and fill minor imperfections along the edges, then paint. Typically per the rules, no filling is allowed on the penetrable area of the balsa, and the painting methods and materials may be limited by the ruleset you are building for.

    The outline above is certainly not the only way to do it, just how I do it, I just typed it up as an example. Hopefully others will let you know how they do it so you can decide what's best for you and fits best in your ruleset. Some guys use thinned glue instead of dope - easier to get, cheaper, and less stinky. Some use CA glue to hold the skin on.... etc etc. There are many different ways to do it, if no one else chimes in you can dig through build threads, some guys have explained their processes there.

    Some of the methods outlined above and in other places on the forum may be prohibited by your rules, so be sure to check what is allowed throughout the entire sheeting process before you start on any of it.;)
     
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  5. Nathaniel Tindall

    Nathaniel Tindall Member

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    Awesome thank you! That gave me a much clearer idea of what to do for sure.

    Also, when you say "prime" right before sanding, what do you mean exactly? Pardon my ignorance lol.

    And what do you used to thin the second coat? Water? 50/50?
     
  6. Cannonman

    Cannonman Ultimate Hero :P -->> C T D <<--

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    No worries about the questions, it's an important part of building!!

    I just give it a couple light coats of automotive type primer from a spray can (rustoleum or the like). Some rules disallow anything but a coat of paint on top of the silkspan in the penetrable areas, and some specify what paints are and aren't acceptable for use. Knowing the rules you are building for is very important. You can generally do whatever you want in the solid areas. You can skip the feathering, primer and sanding etc, and paint right over the silkspan if you so desire, I'm just kind of fussy about how a new boat looks.

    I *think* I thinned the dope 50/50. I used thinner specifically for the nitrate dope. The nitrate dope is sort of hard to find, but is recommended over the Butylrate dope because it shrinks less, so it is less likely to warp the balsa. Like I said, some guys use a 50/50 mix of titebond and water to hold the silkspan on. I have also read of guys using spray adhesive, and others using some form of CA glue, I prefer the dope method, it works incredibly well for me.

    HERE is a link to a Sheeting discussion.
    HERE is another.

    If I can find others I will post those as well.
    Best advice I can give is to first know your rules. Then read the discussions I linked to. Use all the information you have taken in and decide what method will work best for you. Hopefully others will post some alternative methods to give you some more food for thought, it's very helpful to have as much info as possible! :)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 14, 2017
  7. Cannonman

    Cannonman Ultimate Hero :P -->> C T D <<--

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    I neglected to mention that if Queens Own allows silkspan on both side of the balsa, it would generally be applied to the inside of the balsa before applying the balsa to the ship, using the same method as you would to apply it to the outside. I should also mention that some guys prefer to pre-apply the balsa to both sides so that they don't have to mess with it later. I prefer to apply it after sheeting so that the silkspan helps seal the edges of the balsa from leaking because you can overlap it from the balsa to the solid areas, and the balsa is a little more flexible during application if you silkspan after the sheeting is applied.
     
  8. PrepmasterNick

    PrepmasterNick Active Member

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    Getting ready to sheet mine after awhile as well.