Hulls and Ships for Sale

That rule won't pose a problem because the Krasni Krim isn't being built for Treaty combat. I'm building KK specifically for use in IRCWCC Campaign Lite.

The idea is to use it as a base defence ship. With 4 bow mounted spurt guns and the ability to reload multiple times during the game it'll pose a threat to stationary battleships firing at the magnetic targets.

Bob

 

The Kent Class hull has been sold. Pocket heavy cruiser Sri Ayuthia and monitor HMS Roberts are spoken for.

Hulls remaining for sale are:

2 x HMAS/HMS Albatross - WWII seaplane carrier/fleet repair ship

1 x Graf Spee - Ralph Coles hull

1 x Profintern/Krasni Krim - (WWII Soviet CL)

1 x HMS Furious - WWI light BC, CV, or Hybrid BC/CV

Bob

 

What is the cost for the Graf Spee? Would you be willing to ship to the US? What number of units does it have? Is it effective/reasonable for a IRCWCC rookie? Thanks for any and all help.

 

It is one of the best ships for a rookie or so I have been told by several guys.

 

The Graf Spee is a good starter ship and has 3.5 units. I'll sell it for $110US plus shipping. Will need your zip code to get a shipping quote, so email me off forum.

Bob

 

Well, i have you guys telling me she's good, and i have the other guys telling me otherwise. if you want to drop your comments there too, i'd like to see what every one thinks.

 

I've never run a Graf Spee or Lutzow but the two we had in NABS were good combat models and good seaboats in rough water. Steve Crane has been operating his Lutzow for years in NABS and the MWC. When Swampworks was in business it was one of Steve's most popular hulls. All of the turrets are available from BC, including well detailed main turrets made of Termite Armor.

Bob

 

BoomerBoy,
I just checked on shipping to the U.S. with a couple of companies. They said U.S. Customs regulations have become so restrictive they can't guarantee delivery of non-commercial goods and will no longer insure any personal goods shipped to the U.S.

U.S. Customs requires any personal item being resold and entering the U.S. to be in "the original packaging". There was no original packaging with Ralph Coles' Graf Spee hull but I was told that doesn't matter. "That's the rule." Apparently personal shipments are getting stuck in U.S. Customs limbo so shipping companies no longer want to deal with them.

I can't conceive that a fiberglass hull would be considered a threat to national security. However, the bottom line is that if I can't get the hull insured I'm not going to send it to the U.S. unless you're willing to take the risk it might be lost in Customs. (That said, boxes of molds for Tugboat and a Krasni Krim hull got through without difficulty earlier this year.)

If I had a commercial account there wouldn't be as much of a problem but I'm not running a business like Ralph Coles so can't get an account. If you want a Graf Spee hull you may want to buy it directly from Ralph, or order one through Mike Deskin. Mikey orders shipments of multiple hulls from Ralph.

If hulls are short enough to be shipped by Canada Post there's no problem with insurance or delivery of personal items. This system makes no sense to me. Unfortunately, Canada Post will only ship packages under a meter (39.25") long.

Bob

 

Bob: could you contact me please 223-8636 today sometime if you can i'd like to come by and pick a few things up.
john

 

Hi Bob

Whats the new on the Sri Ayuthia - Siamese 'pocket heavy cruiser' hull? How is she coming along?

 

Hi David,
The Sri Ayuthia mold has been gelcoated for your hull but I haven't added the extra gelcoat aft to allow the stern to be sanded to a more sharply tapered shape (viewed from above).

At present it's a match to the Goff plans used when making the mold, but the stern should be a little sharper according to more detailed plans found since the mold was made. If you want the thicker gelcoat so you can sand the stern to a sharper curve it'll have to be built up over a few days before the fiberglass is applied.

If you aren't as fussy about the stern shape as I am the hull can be glassed this weekend. Let me know which you prefer. It took about 90 minutes to file and sand the stern on my hull to a more accurate shape. That's why I'll leave the sanding to you!

Bob

 

I'm not to fussy, I like a more rounded stern, the sharp ones hurt. Go ahead and lay her up.

I may ask you some questions on a project i have been working on for the last couple of weeks, if you don't mind that is.

I was just going to post a picture of it, but I find one of my daughters left my camera on again, so of course the battery is dead. Well its on the charger now, so I will post it tomorrow.

Thanks for the update Bob.

 

OK, I'll lay it up this weekend. I'll give whatever advice I can on your new project.

Bob

 

Well I'm working on a plug for a ship. I made my small Jap tanker early last year using a foam plug, as a one off hull. It did very well at Nats, so if this works out ok, I think I will make a mold for that one again as well. This is my first effort making a plug, and a mold.

It has plywood ribs, but as you sand I notice the material in between actually sands away more than the plywood. I dont want its panty line to show so to speak.

What do you do to stop this affect, or do you just continue to build up the material in between with spackling compound. Mine is not too bad since I used balsa wood as the filler material instead of foam. I have it at about 98% to shape, the bow area needs some more work. I also need to cut out the rear casemate area, which I plan on doing tomorrow with a dremel.

Here are a couple of views of it so far.





Plus any other suggestions that you may have. I put one coat of the spackling just to fill all the cracks between the balsa blocks I glued together. I sanded a little, but I plan on allot of sanding tomorrow. Like I said I still need to get the bow area to its proper shape, which I plan on doing tomorrow also.

 

David,
The foam always shrinks back a bit between the ribs when sanded. What I do is apply drywall compound or Poly-Filla and carefully sand it down until the ribs a just visible through it. That will give a smooth surface withoput any 'panty lines'. Takes some practise though!

What is the hull? Iron Duke?? If you get a good finish on the plug you might as well make a proper mold.

Bob

 

Sounds good Bob, thats what I had planned to do, but was not sure if you guys that make them all the time, had a different way, or material. I'm using the drywall(Spackling Compound)so it seems I'm on the right track.

Thanks again

 

Looks like the Iron Duke to me.

Sand the flat areas with a drywall screen. Get a holder (or whatever they are called). This will eliminate any dips and grooves caused by fingers.

Use a sanding sponge for the curves.

 

Nope, mine will be the Benbow. I have a sanding block I started using, and a sponge. Thanks for the input guys.

 

Bob, are you still selling the Graf Spee? I might still want it, if it hasnt sold yet. did you get the insurance thing set with yet?
Thanks

 

Hi Will,
My Graf Spee hull is no longer for sale. I spent $60 for the plans Ralph Coles used to make the mold, but the extra $$ per hull that was to be charged to pay me back wasn't collected. It'll be a waste of my $$ if I don't build the model (though I'd rather build a Mogami).

Ralph has sold the mold to some people in Ontario so the Graf Spee hulls are temporarily out of production.

Bob