archer, do you have any problems with backlash on your taig? how much fiddling did it take to remove it?
sorry guys, I missed the remainder of this thread updating for a while. Backlash on the taig. less than 1 mil. no issues to remove it. it just takes fiddling. Lots of it. and patience and a bit of time at www.cartertools.com The hardest part is not eliminating backlash but tightening up the gibbs properly. One tip, find the least worn section of the lead screw and set the backlash there. as far as cam software, a buddy of mine works as a machinist, and for a few beers he will post anything I throw his way and let me use his software whenever I want. For most of my 2d stuff I use the built in lazycam that comes with mach 3 but for more complicated stuff, he uses mastercam (that program is too damn complicated for me). Now I just have to get over and pick one of my other friends brains about injection molding of plastics... as I am planning a homebuilt injection molding machine...
I've heard good things about mastercam. I guess I'll decide on a cam package after i get the mill cnc'ed. Let me know what you find out about injection molding, I'd love to build one. I know a fair bit about molding from an internship at Bosch, but I haven't a clue about a DIY setup. Did you have your machinist friend turn the chambers for you, or do you also have a lathe?
All the turning was done by him, although with the proper tool I should be able to make them. The hardest part is getting a stiff enough tool to allow a reasonable depth of cut...
Well, with smallparts springs.... the gun semi auto fires with no restriction O-rings... now to see how it does with them.. more news after I get some hose clamps!
Well, the first one works... I think I might have to change to a finer thread on the screws for adjustment, but the first turret is fully functional... now to get the rest going.
MORE PICTURES!!! well, I just completed the second functioning turret... I will hold off on the third till after the first battle... then any mods I will incorporate into it... I still have to install the elevation control servo. http://thetriphome.blogspot.com
Just wait, it will get buisyer in that stack... a HS85MG servo fits right down on the top of the aluminum canister between the 4 tubes and will control the elevation via a as yet uninstalled ball link on the back of the breech...
Are you machining a bracket for the servo to mount to, or is the mount already hidden in there? Side note: my little business got bigger! Doctor Little Sister is repaying the money I sent her while she was in med school(and I was on the sub)! I am getting my power tools, and buying some molds I send out the papers to get incorporated tomorrow! (one of the toys is a mill attachment for the drill press. Not a CNC, but it's still gonna be cool) I need to call you again at some point about bizness. I am going to do the beginner kit type thing that we talked about last time.
The brackets are already there but I think that I will try just bonding the servo with RTV to the top for starters (we'll see how that works) as it would save on having to get screws in there. I am seriously thinking about BC's new cruiser hull for a kit.. -Greg
Ahh... I was thinking German BC Seydlitz, or Japanese CL Agano. Agano is leading right now, as I have a nearly-done plug for it.
Yeah... and since I don't make pumps or gearboxes, I was thinking about working a deal out and then designing the kit with yours... I don't really want to do the R&D on those when I could be making turrets and hulls.
yep, that does sound like a plan. I would, however, advise on the gearbox front trying to make it direct drive if possible. One less thing to break/hassle with. and servocity.com has some good prices on U-joints and dogbone couplers.
I was thinking gearbox so one motor drives 2 shafts, less electrical complexity (part of the kit is a precut and soldered wiring harness). Also keeps the weight down, which will make it easier on the beginner. The u-joints should hold up okay, I would think. I just want to make it easy as pie mmmm... pie... Brian K who has been working on geek-breech guns is going to work with me to build a pair of cannon (no tweaking, again easier for the kit, and we're going to cut a deal on props as well. I figure a reasonbly roomy light cruiser, 2.5 units, is cheap enough for someone who wants to test the waters, and easy enough for someone who is minimally handy (as we all were once). And, they should only need a 4-channel radio, to boot. At the point in time when I have a battlecruiser hull (I need good plans for Invincible), either I-boat or Seydlitz, I will put out a battlecruiser kit. What'cha think?
Sounds like a plan. I still tend to think that two motors with a good (pictorial) instruction set would be better for a beginner (assuming a bc, in a small 2.5unit cruiser, the gearbox will help a lot), as there is less vertical height taken up and it is closer to what many other people will run, but either way would work quite well. (especially if the gearbox fit into a compartment in the bottom of the hull to make it easy to mount) Sounds like one of these days I will have to get around to making a small pump... -Greg
When I get a battlecruiser hull I'll develop a beginner's kit for that, and it'll have two motors, like you say. A small pump that uses a 400 or smaller motor would be good (some clubs require a pump motor equal to or smaller in size then the drive motor(s). The instruction set will be a .pdf document printed on a laserprinter so looks professional and is easy to read. I'd like to do a beginner kit for axis and one for allied so I don't lock a prospective battler into one side or the other. I mean, realistically, all will see the glory of fighting for the Axis, but some lowly vermin may go allied But for now, hull-wise, I'm doing Agano. Banzai!
