While waiting on parts for kongo and not wanting to do a full redesign on the shimakaze yet i have started in on a Nagara class using some Kuma class plans lengthened by 1mm to get to a Nagara. and i have to redo the whole thing..... somewhere my forward section got tilted 3degrees off center and the aft is 2-4mm high depending on where i measure. but hey only about 6 hours of farting around with cad. Regardless I plan on modeling in the subsets to make the deck held down with magnets and tape to seal. planning on also modeling in the drive as a drop in sections. guns will be modified in depending on how much room and where i can place it after printing. .
10-40 feet depending on which ship to which ship. but the where kuma class hulls with different torps. that is about it
I have one that I started scratch building. I am going to have to redo it because the shape of the hull is VERY sensitive to weight distribution. You have to get it just right or it floats on it's side.
going to have it so there is a groove in the bottom of the keel wide enough to put some lead but not much. few extra grams. keeping the topside printed and thin will help the top weight as well. shimakaze at 6" shorter in 1/144 completed was about 2.6 pounds with all parts and a double spurt. think the hull weighed under .5 pounds.
restarted with much much better plans. ones that the water line and the side view don't change dimensions over 15mm autocad issues preventing me from getting screenshots like i would like.
restarted again and might as well document what i'm doing this time. redesigning my 2d layout to get things done spending less time in the 3d environment. autocad doesn't like super complicated small models.
just need to model the stern in now and find where i have to split for printing and add supports across the cuts first time i got the nose that smooth and that close to the 1" limit 1" due to issues in penetrability% if i take the 2"
aft got truncated about 3/8 due to a measurement being off somewhere. total length is good but something is off in rib 1-2. whole boat is sectioned 5 prints at 230mm long or so each just need to model in the stuffing tubes and a motor mount and then wait for prusia to catch up and ship my printer. probably start akashi up then
stretched whole model 3/8 in z axis for stability issues. modeled in stuffing tubes but will probably have to cut in the next sections tubes as autocad keeps crashing annnd i put the step in the wrong place. so cutting that out and putting it back it it looks like
and first test print is out and last 2 parts of the aft starting tommorow. and step is in the right place for the isuzu in the nagara class.... yay plans from to many sources
still having a slight first layer issue with my prints on this low warp abs that im playing with. will rebuild the stuffing tube holders after i actually build some tubes to go in there.
some reason every slicer i have puts that perforation on the infill in the aft so i'm just gonna fill it in gorrilla glued some 4043 aluminum welding rods to the spars as a test after cracking one on a 3 foot drop. droped it 6 feet after and no crack also wacked it with some pliers and didn't crack it but same force broke the ribs on my shimakaze which got some destructive testing done today. pre-modeled supports came out weird due to my z-axis enlargements but still work well enough
Looks pretty cool, I like the reinforcing rod idea. could be a mesh error. Might try running it through netfabb to fix and then look at the re-slice.
netfabb actually introduced that error but removed a layer de-lamination so i kinda gave up on it. easy post process fix vs complete failure.
ok e6000 works better than gorilla glue on abs and aluminum. no new pictures for today but should have the back 1/2 assembled tomorrow barring printer failure.
aft got distorted so reprinting that. but that did allow for some more destructive testing. the 4043 1/16" rod i used did not deform or detach, crack, or mar from whacking the crap outa it with pliers. only cracked after 3 inches of inward deflection and only after the white gorilla glue separated. so 1/16th 4043 aluminum rods are not going into my printed hulls as backers.
