IJN Yamashiro (IRCWCC)

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Kevin P., Oct 7, 2018.

  1. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    About time to start winter builds. With the uncertainty in the sides for Nats next year I decided that I needed another primary axis ship. I chose Fuso since I haven’t seen many battled, and it’s not a nagato or other ‘super ship.’ I’ll build a Nagato at some point, but I can learn from the Fuso build first.
    Plans from profile morskie, pdf is definitely the way to go if you don’t want to wait several months
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    I did my standard float test over the weekend at Marty’s.
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    It looks like I might go light, I think 27.5 lbs here
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    It is long
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    About 1.5” freeboard forward, 3/4” aft
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    Will be marking windows soon
     
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  2. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    nice! how long did it take to get the plans?
     
  3. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    When I ordered paper plans it took 7-8 weeks I think. PDF version was a few days, then printed at staples with no issues
     
  4. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    oh that's not as bad as I feared. I just ordered a set of Idaho plans a week ago from them. The nearest print shop is 90 miles away, so I figured I'd wait instead of burning three hours of fuel etc.
     
  5. Bob Pottle

    Bob Pottle Well-Known Member

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    I've ordered plans from them twice and each time it took 7-8 weeks to receive them. PM told me it usually takes 2 weeks after an order before a paper plan is printed.
     
  6. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    so it looks like there are no frame position annotations on those plans. would you just determine that by cross referencing measurements?
     
  7. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Frame positions are on another sheet. If they were missing then yes you could position them by beam measurement. I did that on the Courbet plug since the plans beam was slightly too big, and I had to trim a good deal off the sides on the top layers of the hull to get it within tolerance. I marked the correct frame locations, but moved some slightly forward or aft to line up with the dimensions of the plug. It worked out fine.
     
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  8. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Looking forward, does anyone have suggestions for water channeling for these Japanese ships? I’m thinking of trying to fill the bulges in about an inch or so inboard, maybe 3/4 to 1” high, then 1/4 for bulk of length. Raised areas in bow too, and maybe a ledge in the stern, I’ll have to see where the turrets line up.

    I’m also undecided on gun layout. I will build it with two pumps, and run either 1, 1.5, or 2. I’m split between duel sterns at 15 degrees (same as Seydlitz and Agincourt) or the death Y with bow gun (Nagato lite). I might end up with guns in 5 of 6 turrets. From forward to aft, bow sidemount, bow gun, empty, stern/mid sidemount, haymaker, and duel sterns or stern sidemount (maybe two aft turret decks)
     
  9. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    possibly ramp the water channeling all the way to the bottom of the penetrable window, such that there is a slope to the channel? the bulges on the Texas made me ask a similar question, and I came close to putting a foam layer over the cement lining I put in there. given how water pooled in those bulges on my boat when she was even slightly off-trim, I'd suggest filling them in either way you go.
     
  10. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Instead of ramping the bulges, maybe a few steps to help the water from not rushing up the other side while in a turn? I did mine with 1/4 inch increments (2 levels)
     
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  11. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    nice. have any pics?
     
  12. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    This is old, but you get the idea

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    Oh. guess I know what I'll be doing this winter to my Texas. thanks Lou. that looks like it'd do the trick
     
  14. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Lou, that’s what I’m planning I think

    Got a small amount of work done today
    Casements first
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    Holes, plan is to remove sides where casements go
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    Cut out
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    Marking side contour on wood
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    That was wrong side to set up cut, had to mark other side. Had to find right diameter, ended up being a dime
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    Marked
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    First layer cut out, will cut 3 more and laminate them together. This will serve as a mold to make casements. I’ve used this method twice, generally effective. Once the first side is done I can flip the wood over and do the other side
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    Attached Files:

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  15. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Made some progress. Glued the casement mold together
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    Up close, sanded down
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    Added bondo, Sealed with acrylic clear coat
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    Clear coat, and mold release
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    Coated with mold release and attached, taped here
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    Ready to go
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    Close up
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    Ready to go
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    Glass down
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    Had some epoxy with filler spill out, can add more
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    Other side tomorrow, hopefully cut hull Sunday
     
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  16. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Popped the mold off, came with some resistance, but overall is good
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    Will need to clean them up slightly
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    Now second side. Used more tape as lesson learned
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    And set up
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    Plan is to pop the mold off, clean them up, and then work on marking and maybe cutting the hull
     
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  17. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Mold came off easier this time
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    Trimmed excess off
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    Next marked the hull. Black tape on black gel coat hard to see
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    Port side
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    Way too many holes to drill
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  18. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Also cut out port side
    Definitely a lot more work than the allied ships I’ve been building
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    Still plenty of cleaning up to do, did what I could with cut off wheel, will need some grinding to finish this side
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    Stringer will need some massaging
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    Stern
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  19. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Cut side 2
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    Burned through a bit between Courbet and side 1
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    And cut
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    Just casements left, and need to get stringer to 1/8
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  20. Mad_Modeller

    Mad_Modeller Active Member

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    Very nice work sir.