err I replace them lol. there will be a rubber bumper that goes around the aft section. I just havent carved it yet.
To be more clear, I mean what happens if someone shoots them in combat from the ON position to the OFF position? Experience has taught me that rounds will find their ways to the damnedest places
I saw a KGV with a power switch and gas switch hidden inside the forward superstructure, but with an opening to allow the captain to reach in and flip the switch. Naturally a bb found its way in there as well and killed all power in the middle of battle. The switch wasn't broken, just flipped off. The same thing happened to a Tirpitz when the switch was on the deck but surrounded by a protective wall of 1/4" ply. I think Nick is trying to say that your switches, as cool and convenient as they may be for you, are in a location that also makes them likely targets for a golden bb to disable your beautiful ship in a single shot.
These switches are dummy switches purely by design. The real switches will be located under the floating cover. The only exposed switches are the air cut-off switches and they will be recessed into the deck. I almost put LEDs on the switches for brighter targets.
Your right what I called a switch is a 3-Way Toggle Subminiature Spool Valve, NP Steel Toggle It does have the appearance of a switch sorry about that my mistake.
While I would normally agree, and personally dislike anything that can be shot and disable/cripple me... He's building to NTXBG rules. They have a requirement for an external air shut-off.
Don't use the tiny SMTV-3, it's got a very short life and will start leaking. I have been there and now run the MTV-3
Ok now for a must see aproach on barrel bending. This is my home made rig for barrel bending. These are stainless steel tubes 5/16" OD 22 gauge walls .254 ID . That was the closes tubing I could find to a 1/4" ID. I use a Ridgid 38033 bender. I choose this one for it's bearings great product I do indorse this product lol. Now the tricky part creating a mandrel for it. A mandrel enables you to keep the tube perfectly round while bending the barrel mainly used on exhaust pipes for high performance cars. I used a chunk of old aluminum , a 1/4" dia 316 stainless steel rod, and a 1/4" locking collar. It took a little calibration to get it just right. A standard flange clamp finishes of the rig. Pleese note I bend my barrels a little passed 90° because I believe I will be shooting down more than level.
Before I started this build I heard a lot of stories about people trying to disable others by aiming at their switches and valves. Mainly air cut off valves. The other notable targets were anchers and decorative objects. So with that being said the more targets I use that will receive no points the less points I will loose. At lease thats my plan for bonus defence. I would like too thank VVaholic for pointing out the switches.
No worries. I guess I don't understand allowing an opponent to "kill" any part of your system as a defense. Kind of like handing them your sword to stab you, and you hope they faint from the sight of blood.
The switches are props the real switches are located inside I haven't mounted them permanently yet. I will have to lift up the float panel to access them.
Worked for my Bismarck. The pretty detail stuff was just a distraction. They look at the topside while firing and I look at below their waterline while returning fire.
Been working on other prodjects for a while and yes they were honey-do's. but it did pay off I was able to snag a 3D printer out of the deal. so that to has been taking up most of my time. so I will leave y'all with a pick of the progress not much but I have CADed out the hole suerstructor of the Yamato earlier model
the biggest slow down right now is trying to print with TPE filament had to order longer tubes from china wont be here till Aug.10. I've had limited results with this material. A hole lot of clogging.
