You can get an idea by looking at past experiences but actual real world conditions will be the best test. Take it out and run it like your fighting it for a set time and see how many mAh you used.
Get some aluminum stock, drill a mounting hole, and glue it to the bottom. Bolt it wherever you like.
This is great advice! Famous last words.... But it worked great on the bench??????(been there owned that) So is this(a great idea) and it does not require any difficult decisions. Once you are on the water battling you can work out the batteries, for the time being you have plenty.
I like Life batteries. I get them large enough to last en entire battle day. Then charge them overnight and go again. I have 2 in my DKM Scharnhorst and it works great. They add ballast as well.
https://www.batteryspace.com/lifepo...h-10c-rate-64-wh-6-0---un38-3-passed-dgr.aspx These are what I use. I run a 6.4v system. Two cells in series.
Nut, Keep in mind he is Battling "Fast Gun" and Not "Treaty" . not saying the batts wont work(they will, I use them in my VDT and I swap 2 in every sortie, you wont battle a BB in fast gun all day on 2)You need to bring your Scharney to a battle man, Just making sure everyone knows what is the backstory here. Cheers mate hope to see you on the water. Craig
Scharnhorst is set up for fast gun. Always was. Treaty guys just overlooked it for a while. Trust me I used that boat without charging it for an entire three day weekend. That's why I took two of the four cells out lol.
That's a good idea. I'll see what I can come up with. think a scrap stop sign would be good to cut up and use for that? It's already been cut up so it's not like a perfectly good sign.
Instead of buying a bunch of the quick connect Ts or stuff like that, any way I can go about adapting something like this to work with the Clippard push-quicks? Free is better than spending money. I would have to buy whatever to adapt it, but I have the tube and all these connectors available to me, and ith er sizes too if I should go with bigger stuff
If you need more voltage add more cells. Adds more capacity and useful ballast. I just like those particular cells for how they are packed.akes it easy to waterproof them and they sit nicely in the boat. Also they are armored. Lol.
Hopefully I can make this work fr co2 distribution. Just need a way to hook it to the push connects. I havent soldered it yet, will do that at home. I left some room to work with on the pipe peices, so once it's ready to go in, I'll make it fit and solder it together then. The 3 in the left are for the stern solenoids (dual sterns and superfiring haymaker) middle is where I'll hook the bottle in, the end T is for the bow gun solenoid and I figured I can also hook up the pressure test poppet on the forward leg to keep it out of the way. No caps here or I'd try drilling them, but not sure if that would even work? Drilling a hole in a cap and them threading it for the push quicks? I cant see to find I'm currently searching the net for 1/4 pipe (I think is what I used, not sure, just grabbed and went with it) to 1/8 NTP female. I suppose male can work as I need to buy the connectors anyways for that, but I'm using NPT threads. I suppose as long as I can get it hooked I to the push quick connectors, I should be good. Maybe this? https://www.grainger.com/mobile/product/NIBCO-Adapter-1VLR8?breadcrumbCatId=4842&fc=MWP2IDP2PCP Looks like it slips on and is soldered in place, and gives female NPT threads. Again though, not sure if I have the right size, but there is other ones available. Then use these push quick to hook up the tubing https://www.clippard.com/part/PQ-MC08Q-PKG
I guess you can call this a proof of concept. It's all put together and could be glued in, but I'm really not happy happy I'm the results. I really need to get something to cut straight lines with. Power tools by hand with no guides just dont cut it squarely. But at least now I can take the measurements and go from there. Room on the one side of the box for the copper pipe to feed past. Won't need much running up front other than the air and a solenoid if I mount the board and reciever on the bottle holder. Still need to deal.with pump mounting. Currently dont have the drill bits to do it though.
Looking good! I have a similar assembly in my predreads. Bottle in the middle, batteries on either side in an armored box. The only thing you'll want to make sure of is drainage holes in the battery boxes, so they don't trap water. Also, will you be permanently gluing that in? My own battery box/bottle mount assembly is removable to aid in resheeting, repairs, etc. Not something I routinely do in the field, but on those rare occasions it's very helpful.
Yea, I'm going to cut some reliefs in the bottom of it for drainage. I haven't thought about how to hold it down though. I was going to glue the battery boxes to the bottle holder though. What I could do is add some extra material and use some threaded rod as a stud and hold it down that way. Pretty much same way I'm planning to hold down the pump. I still think I'm going to redo it though, make a lot straighter cuts, and also integrate a pump mount, have the board, esc and reciever mount in between
So no progress has been made other than a sketch of exact parts needed for the bottle holder. Hurt my neck mysteriously and havent been able to move it much, just barely can turn it today (hurt it on tuesday. It's now thursday) Next step I think is to get the pump mounted. Any suggestion of how to do that?
Ask Craig about battery and pump usage when you see him next. Did you buy his Baden, or somebody else's? Anywho, here's pics of my CO2/battery tray for reference. this is my second design, and works pretty nice. Took a day to make, but it'll hold my board, receiver, batteries, and CO2 tank right there. note the velcro strap holes in the sides, as well as the notch posts I put in the ribs when I cut them last year. the retention loops are for the wiring harness. I like having tidy wiring, especially when I can yank the battery tray and have the vast majority of my systems readily accessible. the wiring layout and tray act as an armored citadel for all of them, so it has all kinds of neat-o second and third order effects. I'm going to use those notch posts with a screw, nut, and washer to hold the tray inside the hull. the notch posts are already holding it in pretty darn snug, but relying on that in a hull built with an intended 25 year service life is not wise I basically designed the core of the hull around having a citadel/tray, so... I've had that going for me. That was the greatest lesson I learned on Texas. I'm really looking forward to improving on this design even further in Idaho FRAG mods and in my third and final study of that era of American dreadnoughts. Note: I bored into the 1/4" plywood in back to get an even better seating for the CO2 Bottle with a router bit on my dremel.
I did buy the Baden from Craig. So the v2 is still going to have the 7 long box using 1/4" outside and 1/8" inside. But the co2 holder peice will be the full width. I'm also going to forgo the diagonal pieces for a shelf. The shelf will be where I set my board and RX, and maybe the drive esc. My plan is to have 2 studs come up from the boat to locate the whole assembly, and with the removal top "shelf" hold it all down. I might also do something on the back of the battery boxes for the same effect, but no shelf, maybe just some flat tabs about 1/2" off with gussets (make the 1/4 thick sides a tad longer, and glue in a peice there) and use locating studs with a nut to hold the assembly down. First step is to lay out all the wood cuts. I do think I'm going to forgo trying to e6000 the whole thing together and see if I can find some cheap thin metal bracket holders and screws that will work. I know I have nothing g right now that will work. Might still have to use e6000. Picture is like a cutaway side view. I'm not good at explaining, or really drawing my ideas up in a way to express it to others, but it works for me, I know what I'm doing, just need to get the proper tools to do it. It might not work, but I won't know until it's there. Other than being hand fitted, and not having a way to secure it, what I have now would work. I'm pretty much taking what I have, making the cross peice a full section to match the width if both boxes, adding tabs to the end of the battery boxes, and making the slant into a shelf that will have the board mount down to it while also being a spot for the assembly to mount. I suppose I could also integrate a pump mount into the whole thing too. I may just do that. It shouldnt be too hard. EDIT: added a second d picture of a design with the pump mount included. Could forgo attaching that to the bottle holder. But still have it held down and butt up to it. Still use blocks on the side that will be going under a solid section of the boat so I dont have to deal with messing around with nuts/bolts/screws underneath something that cant be removed. I'll figure something out. But definitely need to just get working on it, but cant really until I get some tools to make things much more precise than I can by hand with a jig saw.
