I think I follow your diagram, and I like it. I'm gonna sit on that integration of the pump mount idea and think about it for a while, because that could really work out well in a future build, if planned out from conception.
if necessary, say for 3d printing, it could be split into a few pieces too. use the stud for the one side towards the bottle holder spot, would hold that down in that area, as well as supporting the shelf for the board/esc/receiver. I'm thinking since I don't want to make the one end with the pump mount attached, since it will be under a solid section of the boat, i will add some weight, and use some bolts as adjustable legs. use some nuts epoxied down for locating the bolt coming down, and a jam nut to gold the plate up. I really need to get some decent tools, or learn to 3d model.
the better tools you have, the better you can build. the difference between my 2017 build and the current one is dramatic. total night-and-day difference, and a lot of that was due to having the right tools.
I bet. I think the garage is being delegated to just a workshop/storage area, so I'll be getting the proper tools eventually. I'm going to give it another go here soon. I'm not sure how well the wood I have does with sanding, but I'm going to get some sand paper and a sanding block. I can get straight lines, but just cutting with only a jigsaw I dont want to cut too much on the line and then have a peice too short. I did cut the battery box part an extra 1/4" taller than I needed too, so I got some room to work there. Also I should look at getting actual hardware to assemble the parts together, instead of just e6000-ing the joints. Just not sure what to get, never really worked with plywood this small that wasn't a panel for something, cut to fit a slot.
So here is a better 3 view of my idea for just a bottle/battery holder. Colored in where material would be, and added tabs for mounting. Didnt add holes for any kind of stud/screw, nor drainholes, but it should suffice to get something going. The pump mount I'm going make will use the same studs on the "tall" side where the bottle regulator will be. It'll pretty much be a flat peice that will mount on the same studs, and with adjustable legs on the other side. I'm hoping with a hole just big enough for the motor, but not the pump body to fit through, will hold the pump in place, and allow me to attach the board, ESC and reciever in that area. The legs will pretty much be a bolt with a nut on both sides. And a locating nut (no threads, just big enough for the bolt to sit inside) to keep.it from wiggling around. The bottom and top nut will be used for height adjustment, having some weight being put onto the pump body to hold it.
Skipping the copper tube for now and bought some Ebay push quicks. Hopefully they will work. Also my prop should be here tomorrow. What v would be the best way to remove the old?
Did come up with this. Took one of my fittings from my solenoid and it fits, sonit can work. Have goop for it too as I just replaced the valve on our 2nd baths tub May take the long section to the front off and just run a hose for that, still have the push quick Ts coming, so I can use zip ties or something for that. Can do the same to the rear, and use a shorter section or 2, to come up with a combination I like before gooping it together. And I may add, I spend $0 on this. It's all salvaged parts. Just time getting them
the locator bolt sounds like a good idea, there. especially with the small suite of tools you're using. I use Elmer's wood glue for a lot of things, as well as contact cement and CA. really depends on the application. test them all out and figure out their properties, that'll give you a good idea of which to use. Now what's this with the copper tubing and push quicks? I would speak with Craig about that prop. I don't know how he attached it. but I must say, he had good acceleration with it when I was fighting him a while back.
This isnt the BADENuff, this is a second one he had picked up. I think he never had this one on the water before I bought it from him. IIRC here said that BAFENuff had a 2" prop. As for the copper tubing and push quicks, I want something that's a little more solid for my air distribution. I had 1/2" pipe and Ts, but couldn't find a way to reduce it down to use the push quicks to go from that to the solenoids. I hadn't trust fit it with the bottle and battery holder in either. Was also told it would cost too much money to use the copper. However, I found all those threaded peices, and I used one of the push quicks I have to make sure they thread in, which they do. Pretty much as you see it, each open hole will get a push quick. The 3 in the back will be solenoids, the middle will be for the hook up to the bottle, and the front will be solenoid and poppet valve for pressure relief/testing. I might replace the run to the front with a section of hose however, and since it's only 1 T there, and I already ordered Ts, I can just use one there and save some threaded hookups. The point I was making though is with just the male threaded connectors I can have an air distribution system, that cost me no money at all.
So I think this will be how I install the copper, but I might shorten the 3/8 run some more and make a longer 1/4 run to the last T and elbow, that would move the solenoid hookup for the superfiring gun closer to where it will be. I'll run a hose up to a QD T up front for the front solenoid and poppet valve. Now to disassemble it all, goop the treads and tighten it down. I'm thinking German torque specs on it too, goodentight. Lol I did also order some female threaded connectors, so I'll be able to hook my air compressor up to it with a standard QD there. I know it wont be neat the pressure that a co2 system will be at (90 vs 150) but at least I can test the system once it's all in. Hopefully tomorrow or Sunday the new Prop, prop shafy, and rudders will be installed.
Oh hey! I think I can help you! I found reducers the other day for PTC on McMaster-Carr. Interesting concept on the copper tubing for your air lines. Hopefully if I make it to the GLAS battle in May (not willing to get arrested for traveling since I'm a Fed), I'd definitely like to take a look. https://www.mcmaster.com/push-to-co...push-to-connect-fittings-for-copper-tubing-9/ https://www.mcmaster.com/push-to-co...c-push-to-connect-fittings-for-copper-tubing/ the ones for plastic lines may work too. it's worth a try, at least. https://www.mcmaster.com/5779k355
No pictures, but I have the old driveshaft tore out, ready for the new one to go in so I can fit a 2" prop underneath. Luckily I ordered 4 bushings, as I ruined 2. Didnt get the new shaft in though, couldn't find a proper drill bit to open the tube up enough to fit a bushing, that at least would keep the 5mm shaft able to spin. But I have a measurement and hopefully with connections, will have a working tube sometime next week To keep some things simple. Im going to reuse the steering arms, but beef them up, and use a servo saver on my servo. The bottle/ battery holder is ready to go in, just to decide if I want to get screws and made it easily removable, or just e6000 it in Pump mount I have an idea, not going to spoil it here until it's in and tested, mostly because I can't put the idea into words. But it should work, and also give me some extra space to put the multiboard, reciever and esc. Once the pump, bottle battery holder, new prop send rudders are in, I'll see about mounting up the solenoids and guns.
I want to, I just don't want to put holes through the boat. Will try and come up with something. Right now the pump mount is the next thing I want to address though, and waiting to hear about the stuffing tube.
Okay, well when you get back to the subject of the tray, there are ways to do it which will not screw things up. I suggest asking Kevin. he knows more than me.
There is wood water channeling installed in the boat where the tray is going. I could in theory drill a small hole, tap it, and use threaded rod to make a stud. I wouldn't imagine too much force being put on it that it wouldn't hold, especially if I use something on the stud going into the wood. I was thinking using a bolt, drilling enough for the head to sit flush, and filling the rest in with epoxy, but that I think would be more difficult than it needs to be, as without some kind of plate to hold the bolts perfectly vertical, it just sounds like more work than needed.
No progress has really been made since last posting, but I did get some holes drilled today in the bottle holder to start getting that installed, as a removable thing. I need to open them up a bit more so it slides real easy on what will become the posts. I'm pretty much going to drill some shallow holes bug enough to sink the heads of a bolt into, then fill that with some epoxy. Having the holes already in the holder should make it easy enough to transfer where the holes will need to be into the ship. I'll use the same size bit to drill the holes at first going through the holder, then find a size that would be big enough to sink the head. Then fill with epoxy. I'll also toss a washer on, and clean up any extra epoxy that oozes around. Could do e6000 as well. To make sure it all stays straight and doesnt end up sticking the holder to the boat, I'll put a nut or 2 on the bolt, then slide the holder in place, tight tighten it all down. The extra nuts will just be used to keep space between any excess that will come out, and the holder, so I'm not fighting with the thing later. I also drew up a basic sketch of how I think I will work the pump mount. I dont want to have to reach or work up underneath a solid part of the hull to get the pump in or out. My idea pretty much is to make a plate with a hole big enough for the motor to go through. The plate will extend forward into the boat, and be held down into 2 blocks made tall enough that they will apply some down pressure to the pump housing. The blocks will sit on either side of the water channeling as well. Will give me 4 points to gold the plate, and hopefully that will be enough on one side of the pump to keep it in place. The discharge hose will have to be put on before the plate goes on, but that shouldn't be a problem anyways, just something I'll need to remember before putting the plate on, mame sure the hose is solidly attached to the pump (which it should be, as it should be tested before even being installed) With that excess length, I am also going to do the bolt/stud method on this, and it should be easier as I can countersink the blocks before installing them. I will have a few strips/plates going across the posts as well, one I will e6000 the multiboard to, and the other I will do some velco for the esc and reciever. Being flat, I should be able to overcome the issue I was having with the velco I used when it got wet. I'll e6000 the strip of velco to the plate as well and e6000 the velco on the reciever and esc. The reciever might get a stronger backing though and be e6000 down to that, so if I was to pull it off, I'm not pulling on the receivers plastic housing. Any of that make any sense at all? Probably not, lol.
rough spitball on the block and plate idea for the pump. water channeling is 3/8 inch tall by the looks of my crappy tape. the pump body looks 1 1/4 inch tall. using 1/4 inch for the plate, I would need to make the blocks 5/8s tall. i have 1/4" and 1/8" wood, so I could stack 2 1/4" and 1/8" to make the combination for the 5/8"s. I will cut the pieces out, and since I need some for another project, use some wood glue the blocks together. drill the holes for some bolts to poke out through, make the 1/4 plate and cut a hole for the pump, and get it all test/hand fitted, so there is a slight down pressure being put onto the pump housing. I'll make sure to use a longer bolt than needed so I can come back later and add in more stuff on top of the plate for the multiboard, esc and receiver. I will need to do some sanding and such. however once they are all set, I won't mount the blocks. I will see if I can get them 3d printed up so I won't' have to be too exact with the cuts to make the squares, and also see about having them connected together at that point too. Pretty much so it has tighter tolerances, and with an exact spacing for when I go to mount it it will be much easier to keep the blocks parallel to each other. I'll still use wood for the plate since it will be hanging back to hold the pump and won't have any support on the back side. That's the only way I can think to get the pump farther back where it is set up to be without having to deal with getting tools under a section that is solidly in the boat (hull brace and such).
Scrounged up some long bolts for the blocks. Also came up with a crude drawing of a side cutaway view how the block system will work out. I will have the top 1/4 of the blocks go across the water channeling to hold it all straight. The bottom 1/4 will be multiple sections, and I will use an extra nut with some e6000 to try and make them work like a carriage bolt. To keep it simple i will cut a 1/4 and 1/8 thick piece 5 1/2 wide, while the bottom 1/4" peices will be 1 1/2 wide, amd will be all square to the outside of the 1/8 and 1/4 peices. I'm not sure how long yet on them though, will need to see. Same with the 1/4 plate that will hang off and hold the pump. I have room to work with, I'll also work out how much room I'll need for the board, esc and reciever to be mounted on the plate as well.
Scrap the building of things, I found some usable stuffs. These are 1/16" too tall, but I think I can make them work. Pretty much they will become a standoff I e6000 to the boat for the pump mount. The bolts I found fit inside but wont go through. My plan is to use a vise to hold there plastic fittings so the bolt head will be inside and the threads sticking out. Then I'll fill it up with some epoxy and let it dry. I think my idea will still work being off a 1/16" taller than anticipated. When I go to epoxy them in, it will all come down to the pump plate being square to lane it square in the boat. But at least this way I'm not putting holes through the water channeling and hull. I think it makes for less work in the end. And if it doesnt work out, the hull doesn't have holes in it, and the mount redone. On another note, I got the bottle holder setting up. I couldn't use tall bolts on one side, bit I do have some shorter ones that right now act as a locating stud. I'm only setting up the back 2 with e6000, hopefully it will be enough to hold the bolts straight. I'll try and find some tad longer bolts I can have a nut on to hold the holder on place on that side, but in the mean time I at least will have 2 that hold it down, and 2 that will help keep the front part from sliding around. The thick crossbrace doesnt let me plop it right onto 4 studs like I wanted to, but I'll make it all work
