Here it is, the pump mount...... I still need a drill bit big enough to drill the spot for the motor to go. I want to make sure it all fits in place before I epoxy the standoffs down, so I'm on hold until I have access to one. Sadly work doesnt have one in the right size, there isnt a single bit between 1" and 2 1/2". I got 2 of the 4 for the battery and bottle holder in as well, but I have to replace the e6000 with epoxy as it just isnt hard enough to keep upright. It would probably hold, but I'd rather have it solid. The rear 2 are drilled out, just need to put them in and epoxy them down. Those will be more of a locating stud than hold down. I'll also make a shelf part that fits on the holder for the esc, the multiboard will go on the pump mount. I made a seperate thing to go across the front bolts, so I have something to work with. I was thinking just zip tie again, but maybe I can come up with something else that would be better.
Waiting on epoxy and spar varnish right now. Finally got around to putting in the studs for the pump mount. Did the back 2 yesterday before work, let them set, then got the front 2 in now waiting to dry Pump mount has it's first coat of spar varnish, but before I put on more, I might modify it. I think I am going to cut out a spot for a drop down shelf to put the ESC on, hanging off the multiboard's mount. Then I'll make a shelf above the multiboard as well for the RX. I'll put little lead extensions on for the solenoids, and label them bow, stern and side. Probably do the same for the batteries before the parallel harness, and have a short servo extension for the steering servo as well. mount them down on the whole assembly with some zip ties, just to try and keep it all on order. Also want to get around to labeling each of the wires for the board with which channel they go in, same with the esc and servo extension, but shouldnt need to do that if I can make up that drop in peice.
Test fitted before the epoxy fully cures. Bit of a PITA because of that wood crossbrace but it goes in, and comes out good enough, and gets held down in place solid.
So here is the pump mount set up in place. Habemt mounted it down yet, but should work. Going to make new hole for the pump outlet. If I was to spin the pump around I could use the hole that's already there, but having it face backwards as such would male for a shorter run straight out, instead of having a U shape tube to go around and out
You will have to unplug your electronics every time you want to look at the pump. If you are taking damage you want to clean your screen between sorties and for sure between battles each day. Every time you plug and unplug you put wear and stress on connectors.
If I understand what you ate saying correctly, my response is that I will make the wire lengths long enough to pull off the mount without having to unplug anything. Electronics will all be on a seperate plate that will go on the first 2 studs. I got some 1/8" thick rigid pvc I will cut. Im also going to cut down the studs. The only thing coming off will be motor and battery leads, and servo extension. The pump lead is quite long as it is already. Pretty much to get to the pump, I would slide off and set to the side the electronics plate, then take out the pump plate, to get the pump out. Everything should be plenty long to not have to unplug.
Well what would you suggest? Before i go further with it. Constructive criticism is welcomed, but criticism without any kind of suggestion for improvement is just pointless jibber jabber. Another thought I had was to go off of the battery / bottle holder mount, since the back bta are long enough to also have a are come off of that and mount down stuff to. I would make it wide enough to put the multiboard and esc on near each other, and have a second "shelf" above for the RX. Then I wouldn't need to remove anything to take the plate for the pump off. If you are trying to say how my pump will be mounted is "incorrect" I will kindly take constructive suggestions on how to easily get it in under that wide hard section of the boat that does not come out. I came up with this design so my hold down would be offset from the pump, so the hold downs would be accessible from straight down, not have to fish my hand around underneath.
I don't have a real suggestion as to where to mount what, however what Jadfer said about boat spaghetti is spot on. The longer an unsecured wire run is, the more likely it will end up where it does NOT belong. This will lead to reliability issues. So if nothing else route the wires so that they can be secured with just enough room to plug in a good connector leaving as little to flop around as you can. It really doesn't matter how long a wire is per say. I mean some of these boats are pretty long. My DKM Scharnhorst has the RX and firing boards in the bow. Rudder servo is well, at the rudders on a gear drive. Boat has radio off gun test switches and a fully solenoid operated firing system. But the secrecy to the reliability of the ship is not so much the exact placement of the components, it's the ease of access for maintenance. All my wires and hoses are secured with as little slack as possible. Unfortunately my guns are currently mounted to the decks and require a longish hose set to allow removal of the decks. That's something I intend to address on this next refit. As far as the pump goes put a good screen on it and mount it so you can easily remove it for cleaning. You don't want to have to take time to pull the deck, remove the radio plate, then finally get to the pump, all while fighting a mess of wires and hoses that inevitably get in such a state as to not make any sense as to how anything even works. When there's a time limit between sorties and your on the clock to do all that plus reload regas and patch? I know I'M not that good. Lol.
I'm just saying to go through and poking holes without suggesting anything is counter productive to making the post in the first place. I've had a few ideas and have posted them before on where to mount every thing. All the wire and hoses, if I had an excess, would be between the pump mount and battery/bottle mount. And I'm only talking enough wire to take the mount off, and set it aside. Maybe 2 or 3 inches BUT I am thinking off of the battery/bottle holder mount will be where I mount them down. Wouldn't need to touch anything to take out the pump. I am cutting down those bolts to a much longer length. I feel having 4 accessible hold downs is much more efficient than 2 I would have to reach under and fish around for. Plus I could kitty corner the nuts and just run 2. Or I could the bolts as alignment pins. Cut the standoff down a bit for another plate that would be glued to the standoffs and then use a squeeze/spring clamp to hold the top plate to the bottom one. Right there was a few ideas that I came up with that could potentially fix the percieved flaw in having to unplug stuff or having just enough length to move out of the way. And it wasn't that hard for me to include them in my post. Again, just saying if somone wants to criticize, at least offer a helping hand. Especially when it's not once, but twice posting to criticize but with no suggestions to fix.
In fact here is another though. Quick drawing to help wxqin, but the other picture was here. That bottle holder in place. I could find something that slides over the bolts coming up. Have a nut and washer on top to hold them down. Pretty much a spacer so the nut is up at the top From there I would epoxy in a peice that connects the 2 spacers together. 3d printing a rectangle with 2 holes that slide onto those bolts wound be better, but I dont have one. But anyways with the cross peice I could put the board and esc separately onto something and use short screws to hold them to the cross peice. The radio can go back up zip tied on the side
Also I could just epoxy down some magnets and have a peice of metal (or wood with more magnets) go across it, make up something for each component to sit in that has a tab so it can be screwed down to the peice that crosses over the water channeling. Use the height of the magnet directly on the water channeling to raise it up for less water channeling contact
I like to use the pump base design by rceng as it has a mount that stays in the hull and the pump just snaps Ito it. Super fast and easy to clean. Problem is the one I have is not quite up to fastgun standards lol.
You want to be able to pull the pump out without unscrewing anything or moving other components. I’ve used mounts like this in a lot of my builds with no issues. Basically a U plate supported by 4 posts. This one is printed but I’ve made most by hand Resistance from the outlet tube is enough to hold it in place, can be pulled out for screen cleaning very quickly
I had something similar in my Australia. Not that it wouldnt work, but I wasn't sure if I could to have all 4 posts on the opposite side. It's either that or move the pump a lot more forward. Putting the posts under the hull brace would be a PITA is all I'm saying, I'd rather not mess around trying to work under something that's solid and want to get the pump back as far as possible. 2 simple cuts and it's a U. If I can have the posts on 1 side, it would work. Could also egg out the holes a bit and put some extra washers or nuts underneath to give it a down angle to also apply some pressure from above. Could even use some springs, and just press down on them and it would come right out.
Drilling from the bottom is not a PITA, quite simple actually. Looks like that plate is eating up a lot of internal room. Your boat, just trying to provide options to make use of it easier
I'm not drilling through the hull. that was why I went this way. not budging on that either. and I would still have to get the mount set up, so I would still have to epoxy the posts in from top and bottom, and since I'm not 3d printing (as I don't have a printer to do it) I would need to put nuts on the top anyways to hold the U plate on top to the posts. I would still have to work under the hard area to get it set up what force of the U shape of the mount is actually holding the pump down? as for size, it does look bulky, but I do have plenty of room between that and the bottle holder. I can always move the forward set closer it to open it up more. for ESC RX and multiboard, I could have a strip of that PVC run across water channeling, using magnets could epoxy to the bottom of the hull. Also I can "double stack" that and have the receiver on top. pretty much a box that is open on the sides and not the top. Use magnets epoxied to that as well as the bottom of the hull. should hold fine enough to hold those. I am only going to have a poppet, a gun and a solenoid in front of the bottle mount. with the U, does the pump outlet have to face out the opening on the U?
What if I made the U face the front, and had like a latch. Something where it would have some tension, push it down and swing it out. More of a quick registry release than having nuts on bolts
Block up the back and epoxy the whole thing in, after cutting off just before the back set of screws. U shape facing the front. Use the other set of screws right next to the set with the mount. Cut the standoff down. make a T shape that slides onto those new standoffs that fills in the U part. No nuts to hold it in on
Hi! Jibber-Jabber? No way this is SOLID GOLD! You have to keep a few things in mind and I will list them: 1. You need to design your ship so the pump can be taken out in less than 2min without disturbing all other systems in the ship. Your mount should be one that does not require screws or nuts that get lost or drop inside the ship if you get in a hurry. Some sort of slide or pressure fit. I would cut out 1/3 of the circle of that wood platform so that when you slide it into the hole its partially held in place. 2. The LAST place I want all my electronics is NEXT TO THE PUMP.... where it is 100% sure to be submerged at all times. Very few waterproofing jobs are perfect. 3. Even if you wrap your receiver and boards in epoxy you still have servo wire pins that are subject to corrosion, why GUARANTEE that they will corrode. 4. I put my electronics in the bow where I can get to them easily, under a hatch that is also easy to open. I can typically change a receiver in 4-5 minutes or less (many wires to plug/un-plug). 5. I mount the electronics on a raised platform so that they are the last item to get wet when sinking or taking on water. Stern will go down first if you have the ship balanced well. 6. Yes, keep all wiring as short as possible. That is why I liked that Anderson adapter I showed you.. no boat spaghetti wire harness sitting on the cells.. I did that.. I kept losing it... it got in the way.. made battery changes a pain in the butt. 7. Keep gun hoses as short as possible for best performance. The longer the hose between solenoid and gun the longer it takes to build pressure at the o-ring. It may not matter for some but if you want to pump 10 rounds into the red instead of 6 in a quick exchange then the cycle speed matters. I used Parker fittings and a palmer regulator with dual 1/8 ports so I could have two separate air segments to eliminate problems related to shared air source. 2 guns per segment and 1 bow and 1 stern gun per segment so I did not have to worry about draining the line. The 1/4 hose acted as its own accumulator tank and I never used one in the Baden not even when I had dual sterns. They shot hard enough to completely cave in the casements (they were glued in and came loose but still) on a French ship in Missouri.. its on video. Quick maintenance is key to enjoying a battle. Many folks forget that if you a builder gets stubborn and ‘does it his own way’ and attends a small battle where the others are depending on you for their fun... then the battle falls apart quickly. Motors, pump, solenoids, and electronics should be something you can change in the 5 minute range or less. You are building a Baden, and you may not know that I had the only Baden on the water for many years in the MWC and the IRC events I attended, with 3 exceptions over 10 years. The sad part is when you get good with your Baden.. .nobody will play with you anymore and you will come of the water with very little damage and with bb’s in your gun. That is the unfortunate sign that you have done well, if they come for you... its a chance to get better... or show them the error of your ways. Either way with a 28sec ship you can’t run so you better build well. Jibber Jabber complete! J
