Putting together a build thread for the SJS QE prototype hull. Will has said I should throw the hull away since there have been design improvements since this version, but I’ll be building it out as-is It came with some test fit shafts that I’ll adapt to make work. It was coated with a layer of cloth on the bottom, so first step was cleaning it up with a dremel which is a bit nerve wracking on a plastic hull but turned out fine test fitting a few components I’ll need to figure out pump tube routing I’ll use the cheap kort props I picked up on eBay a while ago. They’ll need to be shaved down a bit to fit Printed out rudders Put the heat sets and the motor plates in. Kinda a pain with the cross brace, on future plastic boats I would install them before assembling the hull printed out a turret form. Gun layout will be death Y with two bow guns in B turret, dummy barrels in A I cut up sleeves for the rudder post. I typically drill rudder post to 5/32, but these go out to 9/32 I guess for folks that want a thicker rudder shaft prop holder to drill out the bore hole to 5mm it has a top face that screws down, then I clamp into drill press. I’m planning to mount the props on a shaft that I can put in the lathe. Might be a disaster, but we’ll see. I’ll be printing out more turrets this week and start drawing up the barbettes. Also hope to glue the shafts in and rudder post
More or less same results as Nomercy. Only time I had any non horrible result with cutting a prop on the lathe was one I made that had an extended hub specifically so I could chuck it up in the lathe. That wasn't worth it. I have had good results grinding down a prop if you don't need large diameter changes. You can do it on a lathe but a drill is easy enough too. Chuck it up and spin it against some sandpaper till you get it to the correct size.
The first prop came out surprisingly well. I was doubtful it would work, and I’ve use Dremel method and drill-Dremel combo in the past, but since I have a lathe now might as well try it here’s the drilling jig to bore the prop out to 5mm I fastened the prop to a 2” piece of 5mm rod for this exercise Here’s the first prop after cutting. Shavings need to be trimmed but went from 1.7” to 1.55” in about 5 minutes, taking around 0.005” off per pass I might be able to get rudder tubes and shafts in tomorrow pending how much time I can allocate
I went with the green brand lathe and have been very happy so far. prop 2 came out well, they were both cut from 1.7ish to 1.5 diameter based on gap between the shaft and hull. Once I get both shafts to size I’ll double check the fit before removing them from the short shafts here is a comparison to an uncut prop I also printed up rudder gears, adapting wills standard gears a bit for my preferences. I sink the servo arm in a lot further, which gives less vertical height (more clearance or ability to move servo further aft) and less moment on the servo spline. I also sink a collar into the rudder gear vice going the heat set route. Finally I went from 0.5” to 0.375” in height alignment in the stern. The rudder gears are very close to the inside of the stringer which may be interesting for internal armor
That's how I matched up some cast props back in the depths of time. Chucked em up in the drill press and used a sanding belt until all 3 matched in diameter.
Some recent progress Stuffing tubes cut down barbs all printed rudder and rudder post sleeves sleeves glued together Stuffing tubes in, larger gap between props than to the hull gap to hull, which limits prop diameter Overhead of spacing installing rudder post tubes with e6000 Shafts could be toed in a bit more, still decent gap with longer shafts One shaft was short, so I made a sleeve to push the prop aft about 3/16.” I was rushing cutting the other shaft and forgot the first was too shorts, so I made another brass sleeve next step will be gluing barbs to deck
Maybe in the Australian way, like throw some shrimp on the Barbie these Barbie’s are drying, rushed epoxy job as the baby was waking up. I decided to go with split 15 degree bow guns for more trigger pulls and the challenge of getting dual bow guns to hit together. We shall see. Deck is very narrow here, I broke it in half yesterday pulling an old barb out. Hard to alight the barbs exactly, they are printed for 15 degrees, clamped to a board to keep piece flat and limit rotation potential while drying Aft will be death Y
Your wish is my command Malaya is an older kit, I'm sure I had a reason why it was that way originally but it takes minimal effort to optimize it for future kit owners. (Existing kit owners can always update their ship by replacing the last 2 sections with these newer ones, if desired)
So in the bow you are putting a gun in A and B? My build is stalled as I could not get down angle on duals in B and I was watching your build to see how you could accomplish it. Keep up the good work!
Yes, I was going to do duals in B, I even printed the turrets that way, but decided to shift to 1 gun in A and 1 in B when I made the barbs. This will cover both sides off the bow and allow better down angle for each than having both in A or B here are pics with barbs dried. The aft one I typically put closer to 90 degrees, but I didn’t remember until just now so the ship has sailed turrets bow with turret and B, looks like it will be limited by A turret a bit Showing underside with flange. The bow opening is very narrow so the outboards need to be flush with bottom of deck Today I put a layer of fiberglass cloth around the barbs to promote longevity, as they are integral to the deck piece and can receive a pounding, especially aft the cloth sticks on quite easily which is nice, don’t need anything else to hold it in place
Bilge keels are done pending final seal coat on the wood once I have another epoxy batch to piggyback on Trimmed to 3/8” also attached props to shafts. Just alignment fit here Next steps are probably pump mount and tube outlet, starting guns, and deck fasteners
Pump outlet tube There is an equivalent hole modeled in the current design, starboard side mangle is a bit high but limited options with the casement layout Taped up to epoxy from below filled in goal is to reseal the hull, may or may not work out also put together 3 of 4 gun elbows Tried a new method to allow a 90 degree fitting to attach to back of T. I soldered a 1/16” plate on the back to give extra room for threads hose routing will be tight with the placement of the elbow in the barbette, but I can easily shift to straight tubing in if needed Working on motor shields and gearbox covers, will have them printed tomorrow
Not sure how much those 90° fittings costs but I've used these before to good effect. https://www.universalpowerconversion.com/miniature-90-male-elbow-hose-barb-brass-p-2640.html Might be a cheaper option.
Outcome of epoxy job Cut it down and trimmed deck With the pump tube, I may add a tie down on the deck rim to keep the stream level started fitting up guns and solenoids. Trying the direct mount style for this build (for now) Plan is to have the mags stay straight and go under the cross member, which will be a tight fit. It would be a challenge to twist the mags to keep them just under the aft deck I also printed the gearbox covers and some motor shields for the outrunner drive motors Testing out pump position, should work here. Waterchannel is very minimal which will be interesting to see how she does with damage. I’ll plan for my start pump mount of two through-hull posts to align with the pump shield holes goal for this week is to test out a prototype of the gun/solenoid combo to ensure my setup will work, also starting gun barrels, deck hold downs, the pump mount posts (quick jobs I can knock out early morning before work)
The waterchanneling on the actual production hulls is much better, but still is left as a best suggestion kind of solution. I fully expect some to pour additional foam or resin waterchannel material. But if others don't, they'll probably be fine.
