King Edward VII - Fastgun

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Beaver, Oct 18, 2016.

  1. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Ok, I have a question for those who have built more ships and understand the rules better than me.
    So the KE7 class of ships had sponsons on the sides of the hull to extend the deck for the secondary turrets as shown in the photo below. Sponson Question.jpg

    Now the hull I have doesn't have these modeled but I would like to add them. So I'm wondering, do they get treated like a casement and be solid, or do they constitute part of the hull and have to be penetrable? Either way I'm allowed a stringer underneath it, right?
    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2017
  2. Bob

    Bob Well-Known Member

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    I'd say it's a bump in the hull just like a bulge or armor belt. Use a stringer on the bottom and put a couple of your ribs on the side.
     
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  3. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    That's not a casemate. It's a sponson. I'd say penetrable (and gets a stringer along the bottom).

    upload_2017-2-14_16-41-25.png
     
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  4. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Great, thanks for the clarification guys! :) More progress on the build to be coming soon...
     
  5. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Well, this is how the drive train is gonna look. ESC's sit right behind the motors, bolted in place. Motors will be cinched down with zip ties, and some dogbones for the universal link.
    DSC_0026.JPG
     
  6. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Looking good. What voltage are you shooting for?
     
  7. Bob

    Bob Well-Known Member

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    I've used the dog bones in my cruisers for many years. Have some spares they do snap. Check the plastic regularly to see how it's wearing. Even the brass parts where out after 5-7 years.
     
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  8. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    My plan is to run 3 cell LiPos, so around 12v.
     
  9. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely be keeping my eye on them then. :)
     
  10. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    The dog-bones last longer if they are aligned straight with the shaft and stuffing tubes. I chewed up pinions in Kumano the past year with the old gearbox, bearings were finally wearing out after 5 years, but have been using the same plastic dog-bones for the past 5 years with little wear.
     
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  11. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Do those motors have 1/8" shafts? Is there room to mount them inline with the shafts?
     
  12. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Not stock, I had to turn them down to fit the universals. If I moved the motors to the extreme sides and come up with a different mount I could get the motors lined up with the shafts.
     
  13. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    You turned the motor shafts down? That's hardcore dude!
     
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  14. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    DSC_0030.JPG
     
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  15. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    On those Nidec brushless motors, did they have built in controllers that you bypassed?
     
  16. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    There is a controller board in the case. I just unsoldered the windings wires and put on extensions.
     
  17. Xanthar

    Xanthar Well-Known Member

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    Do you have any pics of how you machined them? It must have been an interesting setup.
     
  18. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    I don't have any photos, but the process was simple. Just run the motor and use a file to grind down the shaft.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2017
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  19. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    So, work on this boat is moving along.
    Since my last post I've gotten the motor mounts glued down, ESC's securely fastened, firing boards prewired and waterproofed, stuffing tubes are now glued into the boat, and a lot of other things worked out in my brain but still need doing.

    Cramped in there, but it's clean.
    DSC_0094.JPG

    Pump mount is in the works..;)
    DSC_0095.JPG

    Pump esc is zip-tied to the cross member. A piece of 1/8 alum is glued under the cross member to give it support and provide a heatsink for the esc.
    DSC_0097.JPG

    Waterproofed firing board: conformal coated in E6000.
    DSC_0112.JPG

    If the weather permits and I get enough time to work on her, I could have the King ready for the Spring Regionals. We shall see. :)
     
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  20. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    A lot of work has been done over the weekend. Here's an update.

    Over the weekend the solenoids got reducer fittings in preparation for plumbing. The 'in' and 'out' ports on the Spartan solenoids have 1/8" NPT threads. To reduce that down to sizes more suited for our purposes, I made reducers out of a 3/16" compression coupling cut into two pieces. The one on the left gets threaded to 10-32" and the threaded section on the right get a 3/32" copper tube soldered into it.
    DSC_0273.JPG DSC_0230.JPG
    The bow gun solenoids with 1/8" in. hose barbs.
    DSC_0252.JPG

    Also constructed over the weekend was the wiring harness. A total of 5 power connections were needed: 3 for the drive motors and pump, and two for the solenoids.
    4mm bullet connectors for the battery connection, XT60's for the drive and pump, and 2mm bullet connectors for the solenoid connections.
    DSC_0253.JPG
    Here's the dual bow cannons power connection.
    DSC_0272.JPG

    Motor are ziptied down now and the beginnings of the pump mount can be seen.
    DSC_0255.JPG

    McMaster Carr provided me with the base component for my all-stainless props. More to come on that later though. ;)
    DSC_0257.JPG

    Till later...
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2017
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