Is that legal? I was under the impression that the casemate deck is considered a stringer and limited to 1/8"
Thanks for all the responses, I get the feeling this was never a truly settled issue. Johnny good to hear from you, don't worry, after two years I don't really recall either.
Ok, so at the bow and stern, assuming that horizontal line on the hull is about 3/8" the section marked by the squiggles needs to be removed correct?
Amidships, I should make another 3/8" line from the top of the hull and remove the material below it and above the stringer correct (the current striping is 1/8" I believe)?
Yes Your viewer on phone or computer are probably autorotating them when you look at them. The site just hosts them in the orientation provided, so if you held your camera sideways to take the picture, it will be sideways here.
11 D actually spells it out.. I don't agree that 11B means that deck is explicitly a stringer. According to B.. I would have no gunwhale beyond the casements... no hull... since its the same deck the casements sit on.
Bob, So the casemate guns will sit on top of what BC provided as the main deck of the ship (biggest deck piece I have, basic hull shape). So what you are saying is that if the wall of that structure/deckhouse where the guns would be is less than 1/2" from the gunwale then the wall of that superstructure needs to be made so that it can be penetrated correct? Also, so water doesn't just slosh around on that main deck (deck that is flush with most of the hull) I need to somehow get that water into the hull. Is that correct?
So just a question about making the casemate housing penetratable. Given when this ship was scuttled at Scapa Flow no work would have been done on the casemate deck to sink the vessel, why should part of the superstructure be made penetrable and drained to the hull?
'cause our version isn't built of 11" thick Krupp armor plate? Actually it was written into the club rules to allow more penetrable area so that those 10-point hits cause you to spend 2 extra hours sheeting all those little spaces.
best advice I can offer is to not try to reconcile this part of the hobby with reality. We had a nice long thread about this a while back that might be either interesting reading or headache inducing reading: https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/casemate-stringers-rule-discussion.442398/
Draining to the hull is not in the rules. Most folks just glue shower pan liner to the back of the hole. Its about points not water. So you cut out a little square of liner and glue it to the back of the casement hole. done
Because it is, by really annoying rule, part of the hull I think no drain holes would technically make it a watertight compartment or somesuch. Yay for more ridiculousness.
mhrector, as you can tell by the comments, the casement rules are some of the...less popular compromises built into the rules. Console yourself with the knowledge that they used to be much less clear and comprehensive than they are now, and that 99.7% of the battlers you'll meet won't care if you're slightly off on your penetrable windows (They'll just point out where you went wrong and how to fix it before the next battle).
I understand. It is just odd that a Konig can have superstructure points scored because of 5.9 inch casemate guns but a Bismarck doesn't give up those points for having 5.9 inch stand alone guns even though both are on the deck that is the longest continuous deck flush to the hull edge and in largely the same location.
Done for points. Scoring is done by counting the number of holes in the boat. Boats with a lot of casemates can have an advantage here so that's why all the arcane rules to ensure some penetrability with them. You're Konig's casemate section doesn't flow back into the hull like most designs so is falling in a grey area not covered to well by the rules.
