Yikes, diesel or kerosene may make it difficult for epoxy etc. to bond later on if much of it soaked into your wood, although I'm not speaking from personal experience. They don't evaporate as easily as say acetone would (they aren't very volatile)... you may want to try to wipe the ribs down real good with something that will not stay resident in the wood before you move on much farther
i didn't use either. just saying gasoline is the WORST solvent to recomend using in anything. I just ripped it out before it set good.
Not true, one gallon of gas can cure many insurance ills, quick, cheap, effective, just don't get caught.
Alumalite and Smooth on both make a urethane foam that is easy to use and closed cell and also not too expensive.
got a $5 sheet of closed cell foam that i use all the time from home depot and glued it in. might be dry friday (didn't use epoxy). unrelated but is it better to get a receiver controlled relay or just switch and servo for pump? still need to make my waterproof box but need to know where i'm putting my guns to keep the dual setup as short as possible.
waterproof servos arrived today so this weekend i need to make some popit+servo holders for them. rear double cannon was soft fit yesterday and finished hollowing the SS so i can build the next layer up. if i get the foam cleaned up tomorrow or wed i will get the epoxy mixed and get it coated plus pot my recivers so i can actually do a float test on the thing (might need to fill my pond first) pump capacitors should be arriving with my gears for the shima.
Just remember to pay cash for the gas, buy it at least an hour away from your house at a busy gas station/truck stop, and buy two different brands so that the analysis can't pinpoint the point of sale. Overshare?
turrets arrived today so i got them positioned and epoxyd the interior so i can install my pump and man is my interior messy. but that will have to be fixed after the 21st.... if i make it. also have started my gun positioning and needed clarification if i can do what i want before i start cutting my hull to accommodate so. one singe 50 sidemount angled backwords and 2 75 off angle about 3 degrees to the same side. and yes i know the kongo turns like a pig but it is a speedy bb pig at that. that and the waterline is about halfway up the hull a good 2 inches from the casemates at light load.
Kongo: 4.5 units. So pump, two 50-round guns & one 75-round. Commonly 50-round sidemount in "B", 75-round sidemount (other side) in "Y" and 50-round stern gun in "Z". Possibly swap the 75 into stern position. If brave enough (BANZAIIIIII!!), you could put in a 1/2-unit pump and run 4x50-round guns. In which case two sidemounts & twin stern guns.
just mixed which gun was where. 75 round and 2 strait 50's.. 3 50's if i take the one from the shima and just design the spurt like i think i want to.
I would make the 75 rnd a rotating sidemount in 4, and do a port sidemount in 2 and a starboard sidemount in 1 and 3. You would have to leave one of the starboard sidemounts pinned but sometimes it makes more sense to have both the forward turrets armed.
problem is i bought the strike guns which are fixed forwards and don't have a torch to soften the solder to rotate them. so first battle will probably just be dual rear, single side non rotate. and can fix everything after that and make a half unit pump two side mounts and the twin sterns for drive-by's depending on how much acceleration i get from my power configuration.
well im not going to make the battle this weekend so i will get things setup properly and fix some issues i see in my hull. not flipped it over to show pictures but i way undercut my hard area by almost an inch on the kongo and patched it back in with some strips of basswood and foam for a nice flatish surface to mount the balsa to. and that needs alot more cleanup as well still. if this all makes me mad and i can't get things to clean up i will just order a takao kit from jenks and go that way for a hull. motors pumps and batteries are all reusable and hull has about 30 bucks in wood in it now.
restarting the build tomorrow. have to move my printer to make room for the build but it should be done printing the last of the parts I need for another project. has tug uploaded the poppit holders yet? SS may or may not be printed. I will decided that tomorrow but i will figure the waterline at least with blue tape so i can start my water channeling properly this time. what sort of thicknesses should walls be for best bb resistance with least weight? abs not pla. working on tuning my printer for abs tonight and may have everything figured finally. 85c bed with 220 hotend seems to have the least curling using gluestick.
