... No. He needs the battery about 1/4inch above the bottom of the channel so the water can flow under, otherwise any damage forward is magnified
would only raise it about 1/4 to1/8 if i don't the way i made the ribs would create a baffle pooling the water infront of the battery and behind it. might just have to cut the ribs back right where that is as well.. i have an INCH of hard area that i need to add in the entire length of the hull right back to where it tapers down in the stern.
Updating my progress on this repair. i am still 2 ribs short but not going to patch any back in. to much work for not much gain i am however getting back an inch of hard area along the entire hull that i didn't claim when i first built the boat. lots of extra but balsa isn't so expensive as to bother me much the fixed side vs the original bow as well very basic water channeling will help the seaworthiness significantly most build threads just don't have enough pics for comparison to what others are doing.
more stuff adding 1/16 lead sheet to the bottom as i have about 4 pounds of weight to play with before i downsized my co2 bottle as well. going to fiberglass the lead to the bottom of the hull with the repairs to the hard area at the same time.
little has been done as new projects have worked their way in and in one i found that a outside wall had zero insulation in to so there goes 2 weekends. fiberglass has been trimmed and will get another coat of glass along the edges and some filling and cutout where the glass bubbled due to over ambition and poor shaping of the water channel for glassing. aft deck hatch is getting cut in this weekend and i will install the new rudder controls and deck hold downs over the next week. after that come re assembly and more cad work for the ss. them onto the Yamato... or maybe redoing the Akagi ribs and having my brand new XCarve mill out the ribs, rim, and keel in pinable sections of 3/8 wood while I generate enough funds for 7 Kips and guns and boards....
oh yea. i have the Kongo, Yamato, and Akagi sitting around now. in dry storage i have the 3dp Shimakaze prototype and a 1/96 surcouf i was playing with when i had nothing but a dremmel.
well at the encouragement of FINISH_KONGO I put all the guts roughly back where they will go now. new smaller bottle fits much much better and i have about 2 pounds of weight to work with to hit minimum and if i go over half a pound on the SS i will be very unhappy after all the work i did to get weight as low as possible again. need to finish the aft deck and get more hold downs and then i will do the last coat of sealing epoxy on on the balsa and wood that i have had to recarve to make things fit so 2 days more of work so long as i can uncover my bandsaw. else i might need to borrow one at tuggy's
velcro works remarkably well here. have already tip tested and it stayed. rudder is finally installed and ready to go. now i just need to epoxy coat my aft cannon mount and put back in the armor and everything should be good to go test.
still need to re-cut a hold down chunk as i stole the one for here to go up front but it fits and stays as is. down to re-skinning and testing guns after mounting to ensure they actually work. going to start designing the full second refit pagoda tomorrow so i can stop having the 1913 SS with the second refit body and gun layout.
alright v1 ss complete print will be done tomorow this is a super rough ss due to the fact that i messed up the main deck so going for roughly right instead of spot on.
behold the non painted super rough ss for a Kongo! installing the Co2 lines this weekend and finding the dope i have sitting somewhere in a shed to start sheeting next weekend and she be floatin.
looong time since i updated... or did anything and ive almost finished sheeting the kongo. annnnnd lost the forward poppit.
